New Cookbooks For A New Season

One of the best aspects about the colder weather coming is that home chefs feel like cooking and baking. The chillier temps also gets us curious and wanting to try all sorts of new recipes. What better way to try new dishes than a new cookbook. There are a slew of them recently published that will definitely expand a home chef's repertoire.

There are thirteen outstanding ones that the New York Times Food section writers recommend. Everyone from Tejal Rao to Melissa Clark and Julia Moskin weighed in. There are so many exciting and  different choices out there.If you're into international cooking then check out Maangchi's Big Book of Korean Cooking : From Everyday Meals To Celebration Cuisine (Rux Marten Publishing) written by Emily Kim, the YouTube cooking star who also goes by Maangchi. Occasional Food contributor, Martha Rose Shulman helped write this salute to Korean cooking with such dishes as tofu stews and dosirak - lunchtime meals for kids.Another stimulating one celebrating overseas cuisine is Sababa: Fresh, Sunny Flavors From My Israeli Kitchen (Avery Publishing) by former New Yorker, Adeena Sussman, an American food writer who moved to Tel Aviv, The cookbook came about thanks to her love of visiting the shuk or outdoor market.Middle Eastern flavors abound here. There are roasted carrots with a tahini and date syrup along with labneh with caramelized pineapple and sumac and baby lamb chops marinated in shug, a mix of green chiles, cardamon and cilantro sauce. Japanese cooking is also big thanks to Ivan Orkin and Chris Ying with their book The Gauin Cooking:Japanese Recipes From A Chef, Father, Eater and Lifelong Outsider (Rux Marten), There is the traditional gyoza dumplings and the not so traditional miso mushroom chili.

American cooking is also big in cookbooks this season. Toni Tipton-Marten's Jubilee: Recipes From Two Centuries of African-American Cooking (Clarkson Potter Publishing) is the follow up to The Jemina Code,an annotated bibliography of African American cookbook. Home chefs will love the recipe for pork chops smothered in caper-lemon sauce. Those who loved the famed San Francisco bakery, Tartine will go mad for Tartine :A Classic Revisited (Chronicle Publishing). Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson , creators of the baking empire have included a whopping sixty-eight new recipes along with their classic ones like the good morning buns. For those home chefs who love Tex-Mex cooking Ama :A  Modern Tex-Mex Kitchen (Chronicle Publishing) features vegan dishes such as cashew based queso with the flavors of charred onion garlic and  green chile. Chef Josef Centeno, used his recipes popular in his LA restaurants. Novice cooks will love such help books as Nothing Fancy: Unfussy Food For Having People Over  (Clarkson Potter) written by Food's Alison Roman. She offers labne with sizzled scallions along with pep talks.Other cookbooks feature Evan's Funk's American Sfoglino (Chronicle ) along with Diana Henry's From The Oven To The Table:Simple Dishes That Look After Themselves (Mitchell Beazley).Go to the Times Food section to see the entire list.

This is the season to test out  recipes.  Buy one or two of these cookbooks and expand your repertoire. It's a fun time to try new dishes and ingredients.

A Culinary Star's Rise And Fall

There are so many celebrities in today's culinary landscape.They stand out because of a signature dish or a larger than life personality. One, Kwame Onwuachi , is different. He has gone from the lowest depths to the acmes of success and back down again. Now his star is on the rise again and he is turning heads - along with palates with some new dishes and creativity.

Regular contributor,Priya Krishna, interviewed Chef Onwuachi for today's New York Times Food section. His background is interesting. This former problem child had to be sent back to Nigeria because he could not be disciplined. He returned to his Bronx home two years later, unchanged, joining a gang and selling drugs. He even dropped out of college. Then a kind of miracle happened. He turned things around. He sold candy on the subway,using the money to finance a catering business. After graduating from the CIA - Culinary Institute  of America and worked famed restaurants, Per Se and Eleven Madison Park. Next TV called and he was competing on Top Chef. At 25 he was handed the carte blanche for the Washington DC restaurant the Shaw Bijou. Sadly it flopped. What could he do? Write a memoir  "Notes From A Young Black Chef (Knopf 2019). It was then his life turned around.

Chef Onwuachi is now the chef at Kith and Kin. He is cooking homey Afro-Caribbean food, exploring the legacy of the African Diaspora.It also reflects his Nigerian,Jamaican, Trinidadian and Lousianian heritage.It offers even breakfast with curried crab Benedict and a jerk bacon. His family recipes are also there in the goat roti he ate at his Jamaican grandparents Long Island home.it's served with jollof rice, a staple of Nigeria, enlivened with homemade curry powder and Maggi seasoning cubes.There is also his Philly Wing Fry , with two locations in DC and national expansion to follow. This idea came when he was smoking a joint during his time at Eleven Madison Park. These only serve Philly cheese steaks, chicken wings and waffle fries  along with a mushroom sandwich. They may sound like simple fast food but they're not. The cheese steak has dry aged beef and roasted garlic mayonnaise while the mushroom sandwich is graced with herbed labneh,a creamy yogurt sauced, spiked with olive oil and za'atar. The chicken wings are glazed with a tamarind glaze and garlic and the fries come with berbere ,a fiery Ethiopian and Eritrean spice mix. Chef Onwuachi is definitely upping the fast food game.

Young chefs should buy his memoir. It is a template on how to succeed after failing. He is not only a star but a maverick on the American culinary scene.His star is rising again and fast.