A New Kind Of Deli

Walk into any deli and you're going to see the usual stuff. There's a display case of mayo drenched salads, and an array of deli meats. What you won't find is chaga or even a tank of live eels. Where could you be? At Harry & Ida's , a deli restaurant mash up that's an East Village staple.

Jeff Gordonier  wrote about this interesting and mind blowing deli in Wednesday's  New York Times Food section. It was created by Will and Julie Horowicz and named for their great-grandparents who were deli owners themselves. The newest generation keeps certain culinary traditions such as hefty brisket sandwiches, fresh killed and smoked eels and brined beef tongues. The first won Mr. Horowicz the top prize in the Brisket King of NYC competition. The deli's restaurant division Ducks is also garnering attention for its' barbecue, also winning recognition and second place at the Kingsford Invitational barbecue contest.The Horowicz's didn't come to their family's business easily.Ms. Horowicz was a Vassar grad , teaching English on the island of Reunion, off the coast of Madagascar. Her brother, a ping pong enthusiast (who has a fondness for playing the game au natural) had to come up with a snack heavy menu for the Flatiron district table tennis hangout SPIN New York.After garnering knowledge at SPIN, they opened up Harry & Ida's , definitely a homage to the family business

What makes them different than their great grandparents deli is their choice of foods.It's not just traditional Jewish deli foods but others that are from the American South, Native American and Asian traditions.Chaga sits marinating in a jar as Will Horowicz turns this Russian fungi into a tea. It's certainly not the traditional Dr. Brown's celery and cream sodas that are standard issue at any New York City deli.There is skate(!) jerky along with cattails (!!!) marinate in brine,.  The last is a standard in indigenous cuisine and tastes like cucumber Pickled ,it'll fit in well in the Horowicz's deli, standing in for the traditional dill pickle. There are also brining crab apples, a sight not seen at any other eatery . Spruce , another North American food is also on the menu.. The brother and sister are big into foraging as well as fermentation, This is what makes the deli a stand out.They experiment, not selling for the everyday stuff like cole slaw and potato salad.

Harry and Ida's is a blend of new and old thanks to Will and Julie Horowicz. They blend traditional deli foods with new spins and ancient techniques. It's what makes their deli unique in a city full of the usual pastrami sandwiches.

Learning From The Masters

Yesterday's New York Times Dining section featured some of the greats. There was an article about the truly legendary French chef, Jacques Pepin along with a De Gustibus article by the equally legendary food critic Mimi Sheraton. Reading the two pieces was like taking a master class in cooking. There was so much knolwedge given out, definitely to be stored away for later use.

The first article was about Pepin and his new cookbook coming out this month. The interview, conducted by Dining regular, Jeff, Gordenier, tells of what's going to be in it as well as learning from the master.The articles even comes with how to pictures dealing with sharpening knives along with the proper way of separating a garlic clove . There is also a pictorial how to for making the perfect French omelet.. It is all about technique, how to crack the eggs, how to hold the pan. It's really turning the body into a machine to create the perfect dish. Pepin executes this as wonderfully as a ballet dancer. Even the way he sliced a simple baguette was insightful (slice on an angle facing outward. It keeps the air in the bread's middle fluffy. )

Mimi Sheraton, another master, is featured too. Her De Gustibus article is all about that little known cuisine Danish cooking. Ms. Sheraton has been a food critic for over fifty years and has eaten at some of the world's best restaurants.She explores the current trend of Nordic cooking; one that has actually been around for a long time. There is nothing new, she explains. The Scandinavians basically invented these now followed trends of foraging and locavore dining. It is big again though thanks to chef Rene Redzepi who will be demonstrating how to create the fare this Saturday in lower Manhattan.

Yesterday's Times dining section was a true salute to classic chefs and critics along with simple but elegant dining. In these celebrity chef laden tomes it's refreshing to return to the pros of the industry.Seek their advice.It's always the best.

Roadie Cooking

Bands and musicians usually have a bad time of it foodwise. There's all those greasy spoons and fast food joints that they have to eat at due to their hectic schedules.If they're lucky they'll be staying at a chain hotel where there's a somewhat decent restaurant. However some bands have it easy. They bring a chef with them and enjoy home cooked, good quality dishes. At times even the fans benefit.

This was chronicled in yesterday's New York Times Dining section. The article, written by Times Dining regular, Jeff Gordinier, dealt with the musical group, the Zac Brown Band, This is a rootsy Georgia based band and their "chef" Rusty Hamlin's cooking reflects it. Mr. Hamlin does all their cooking in a 54 foot 26 wheel silver and blue trailer appropriately named Cookie. He is lucky enough to experience the bounties of the areas where they drive through. It's the best of locavore dining with a twist. he scours local farmer's markets for different area vegetables and fruits to incorporate in his recipes.

What does Mr. Hamlin make? Good Southern cooking that involves fresh instead of deep fried. There is a recipe for a pocketknife cole slaw which is a twist on the traditional. There is cabbage but also bell peppers and tomatoes along with the kick of cayenne and the heat of mustard. There is the traditional Southern ham but with it comes with braised Brussels sprouts and red eye gravy. There is als a meet and greet so fans can not only get to meet the band but also enjoy the Southern hospitality and Mr. Hamlin's all natural creations. Fans were treated to a yummy moonshine vinaigrette and a creamy polenta made with gouda, wild mushrooms and snap beans.
Lucky is the band that has its' own chef. This is true of the Zac Brown Band who has Mr. Hamlin to create amazing food using local produce. Now that rocks!

Actually Yummy Veggie Burgers

Mention veggie burger to anyone ordering food in a restaurant and they'll blanch. Unfortunately this healthy food has a bad reputation, especially when ordered out. It's usually a vile greenish color with mushy peas and heaven only knows what else squishing out of it. However there are a few restaurants bent on changing the much maligned burger

Today's Dining section in the New York Times had an excellent article about this revolution. Dining regular Jeff Gordinier interviewed various American chefs who redefined the plain veggie burger. Some added beet juice to give the interior that look of rare meat while others added prunes(!) for chewiness. Most cooks stuck with using the typical veggies, of peas, cauliflower, squash and chickpeas to get a nice, healthy but delicious burger.A big help was how the burgers were cooked, mostly over hickory to give them a smoky flavor.

How did these rate? The priciest ones that Manhattan has to offer got the best rating. This comes out of Hillstone down in the Village is is a whopping $16.00 However it is also the best tasting and has the most meat like texture. The burger is made out of a composite of brown rice, black beans and red beets. Other sort of come close such as the croquette at Westville and the chickpea laden one from Burger and Barrel, both also in the Village. Some do fail sadly enough .It's probably because there's been little effort put into them. As with any dish a veggie burger has to be thought out and planned carefully, then expertly executed to make it work.

Veggie burgers can be just as tasty as other burgers. They don't have to have that "ugh" factor that puts diners off them. Thanks to a chef's creativity, they can be just as delicious and satisfying as the real thing.

Food Of The Stars

Ever wonder what your fave celebs eat? Do they chow down ion burgers and fries like you and me? Or do they just inhale a lettuce leaf and spring water? Today's Times Dining section answered this question.

And yes they do eat real food like we do.

The era of the willowy starlet is gone as Jeff Gordenier, a Dining regular contributor has found out. They love hearty breakfasts and lunches. Stephanie March, the former Law and Order SVU actress loves anything fried from chicken to steak. Luckily Ms. march is married to Bobby Flay who can satisfy all her culinary whims and passions. other actresses such as Mila Kunis of"Black Swan loves Mickey' D's supersized mealswhile Drew Barrymore is famous for her lifelong love of baked mac and cheese.

The real problem is what about the guys. Do we obsess over Christian Bale's or Colin Firth's diets? Do we care if Clooney eat a hot dog or lasagna?Or if he gains weight? no!There's this absurd double standard that means we scrutinize what any female actor eats while the males of the species can pig out whenever and whatever they choose. It's ridiculous. Luckily we're starting to appreciate the curvaceous actress again such as Chrisitna Hendricks or Sofia Vergatos

Yes, those starlets eat real food. They were real people before they became famous. They weren't; dropped from the skies by the gods and goddesses, destined to live on air and love from their fans. They need bacon and eggs, pizza and burgers to survive , like the res t of us mere mortals