Are We Over Pumpkin Spiced

 It's everywhere these days. Pumpkin spice is like the mold of the fall season. why is it here and why is it so popular? When did it become part of our autumnal ritual?

Surprising the mix is a lot older than the US.It's around thirty five  hundred years old.It  first came  into international being with the spice trade with the Indonesian islands known as the Spice Islands by the Dutch.They called a mix of similar spices soeculaaskruiden, that also has pepper and cardimon. By 1791 it reached cookery or cookbooks written by a Scottish housewife known only as Mrs. Frazier. This was a mix of nutmeg, clove and Scottish pepper which was likely allspice. The spices were also coming from the Caribbean too at this point. This 18th Century version of pumpkin spice wasn't used in hot beverages. Mostly fried flounder and pork chops benefited from this. It only became a sweet spice when it hit the US and went into pumpkin pie. The blend had evolved into mace, nutmeg and ginger. It was a while before it made it into out coffees and other baked goods.

Blame the big spice purveyor McCormick for its' rise. It introduced a spice blend  named what else - pumpkin pie spice in 1934.It never really took off as a savory save in Vietnamese cooking where cinnamon is widely used. Indian cooking also uses the spices too. It came into lattes in 2003 thanks to Starbucks. The company did well with its' tasty Peppermint Mocha and Eggnog. The big guys at the top figured that the mix of spices would go well in coffee and they did. Soon Starbucks' rival Dunkin Doughnuts was making a similar coffee and it was a no brainer to add the flavoring to their doughnuts and doughnut holes. Now it's like the Godzilla of spices taking over everything. Stop & Shop sells a pumpkin spice soda along with cookies and cupcakes. The last are covered with  mounds of cream cheese frosting which also covers their pumpkin spice cakes. Now there are even Oreos filled with pumpkin spice.. There is even candy corn with the flavoring but that's its for now. Luckily there are no Reeses Cups stuffed with it or M&M's. Yet.

It's time we think of a new spice blend for the fall. Something smoky that works well in sweet and savory. what will it be? we should put our heads together and think.

The New Restaurant Season Part Two

 It is fall and that means an urge to get out and just enjoy life. This is true with fine dining. Luckily yesterday's New York Times Food section has published an extensive guide  to the country's best eateries.

Wednesday's post  was dedicated to some of the restaurants in the big cities like San Francisco's The Anchovy Bar and New York's post modern Atomix and its' Gilded Age classic Gage & Tollner;s/ There was also a shout out to Bellaire Texas's Blood Brothers BBQ and Philadelphia's Korshack's Bagels. The list is extensive reaching Honululu's Helena's Hawaiian Food, named for the owner, Helen Chuck who passed in 2017 and continued by her grandson Craig Kasuyushi. Her recipes for laulau , a marriage of pork and buuterfish and seared in taro leaves along with pipi kaula short ribs charred to a magnificent inky black.  An ocean and a country away is North Carolina's Kindred located in Davidson, outside Charlotte. Chefs Joe and Katy Kindred left San Francisco for his home town where they opened up this locally sourced eatery.North Carolina flounder is served with shelling peas  along with labneh and fried eggplant. They also have the Milk Bread Cafe named for their signature bread and offering giant chicken sandwiches and milk bread doughnuts. Then there is Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colorado which offers foods from the Friuli province in Northeastern Italy.

The big cities shine here too, New Yorkers can feast at Ernesto's, the menu inspired by chef Ryan Bartlow's time in an eatery outside of san Sebastian , Spain.  The heavily Basque menu serves everything from beefsteak to cod cheeks with little neck clams and soft rice.  Indian food lovers will go mad for the city's Dhamaka. Chef Chintan Pandiya uses recipes from the villages and countryside instead of the big city.There are clay pots filled with goat and pressure cookers cooking chicken pulao.Pols on the Beltway will love Peter Prime's Trinidadian Cane, popular with former President Obama. His celebrated jerk  wings. served with tamarind mayo is the most popular  but also try the flaky  deep fried red snapper and tenderly grilled oxtails.New Orleans has Brigstens run by Frank Brigsten who creates a phenomenal rabbit andouille gumbo and sweet potato hash.

These are just some of the gems for the new fall season. You may have one or two in your neck of the woods. Try these or what's in your neighborhood.

The New Restaurant Season Part One

 Every fall the New York Times Food section highlights the best restaurants in the city. That's not possible with so many good eateries that have closed since the pandemic. Now there's a new list that features not only the best of Manhattan and its' boroughs but also the entire country.

There are fifty well loved eateries in this country right now.Yes, you do have the big city places such as  The Anchovy Bar in San Francisco and New York's Atomix but you also have Blood Bros BBQ in Bellaire , Texas, a suburb of Houston. The first is known for its' fresh salty anchovy dishes( but no bagna calda!!!) along with fresh caught Pacific fish and seafood.Stuart Briozza runs it with the bread supplied by Nicole Krasinski of State Bird Provisions. Many know Manhattan's Atomix run by Korean born Junghyun and Ella Park because of its' museum like demeanor and has a purely Korean menu. There are flashcards or glosses of the dishes to be collected at the end of the meal. Everything ,from the uniforms to the tableware are designed by Korean and Korean-American artists. ON the other side of the spectrum is Blood Bros BBQ. QUy Huang and brothersTerry and Robin Wong supply fans with a combination of Vietnamese and Texas fusion with heavy African American and Mexican influences.There's brisket and baked mac and cheese along with brisket burnt end buns.

One happy addition is the historic Gage and Tollner located in the quaint neighborhood of Brooklyn Heights. Sohui Kim ,Ben Schneider and John Frizzel have revived this famous eatery that first opened its' doors in 1879. The grand dame of Southern cooking,Edna Lewis cooked and created there in 1988. The menu has such Gilded Age classics as Devils On Horseback and Oyster Rockafellar. Ms. Kim is the chef there and she puts a Korean spin on some traditional dishes as Clams Kimsino that has the jolt of kim ch9i in it. It's also a haven for cocktail lovers as well with Tom Collins and Sloe Gin Fizz. Other classic eateries are Philadelphia's Korshack's. They offer a pillowy soft sourdough bagel with a cream cheese made from mozarella rinds and goat's milk. There's also lox and Green Meadow Farm butter too to smear on as well as homemade chutneys. The city also has Laser Wolf owned by Mike Solomonov and Steve Cook which has an array of kabobs like lamb with fresh from the oven pita and two kinds of pickled cabbage. There's also pineapple grilled with schug a super spicy cousin of za'atar.

These are just a few of this country's best restaurants. Visit them this fall and get excited about them.The food is worth it as is the atmosphere during these cool days.

Different Pizzas For The Weekend

 This is the time for baking and fun fall weekends. What better than to try the different pizzas out there to make , bake and eat.It's a great way to keep weekend cooking fresh and kids happy.

Crusts are what really make a pizza. You can easily go for a traditional crust but why? A sourdough one is a bit heartier than the original and it will hold the sauce and toppings better. You should start off with a sourdough starter, unbleached flour, warm water and of course, yeast, for lift. You will have to proof the dough in a greased container (use olive oil for the greasing) after kneading in a stand mixer. Then it's left to stand for two to four hours until it rises,.Do this in the late morning for a tangy crust. Keep in mind that a sourdough crust works differently with cheese. The mozzarella acts like a lid, allowing the crust to get soggy. Bake the pizza first with just the sauce and toppings and then add the cheese when the crust starts browning.As for this, add some Pecorino Romano cheese to the mozzarella for some strength in flavor. As for  the sauce, make it intense, with more garlic and basil. Skip the pepperoni and add some flavorful prosciutto instead.

Another different kind of pizza is a cauliflower crust ones. These are super flavorful and work well with any toppings. You can buy already made ones from Green Giant and add your own sauce and toppings. However you can also make the crust at home. You'll need a medium head cauliflower which will be pulsed or ground to a fine white powder.It's then steamed in the microwave for about six minutes. Wring out any moisture when it's cooled.Add one large egg and one cup of grated mozzarella and a quarter cup of grated Parmesan. Transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet and bake until golden for about ten to fifteen minutes in a 425 degree oven. The crust should be golden in color. Now it's time to add the sauce , toppings and cheese. Bake for another ten minutes until the cheese is melting and bubbly. For little chefs Pilsbury now has mini pizza crusts. These are the perfect weekend fun. Kids can make these tiny pies with a variety of fun toppings like olives and onions and can even do a different spin like Mexican or Hawaiian. They're also easy to bake which saves a lot of labor and time during a busy weekend.

It's the perfect time for a different kind of pizza. Try a sourdough or cauliflower crust or a mini pizza. They're great fun to bake and to eat.

Italian Cold Cuts For Columbus Day

 Today is Columbus Day. In recent years the man and the day have been vilified - and with good reason. However it's also a time to celebrate the impact of Italian food has on the American palate. One of the most obvious are the cold cuts. These are pure heaven, and brighten up any lunch or dinner.

One of the all time favorites is the elegant mortadella.It is considered a sausage made of finely hashed or ground heat cured pork. It also has about fifteen per cent of pork cubes from the sinewy neck muscles. It's flavored with black pepper grains, pistachios and in some dried myrtle berries.It originated in Bologna and is the first cousin of bologna, another ground meat. The name comes from mortare or to grind. The best way to have it is on a big hung of crisp fresh Italian bread. It doesn't need any mayo.It's just supremely delicious on its' own. Sopprassata is another tasty bite that's great om bread or rolls. It's more from Liguria and Genoa. Unlike mortadella it can be sliced and added to a salad. Prosciutto is one of the most popular and eaten the most. Many know it from gracing cantaloupe slices in fancy restaurants but's it's also great layered with other cold cuts on a hero.it's made from high quality pork legs.Most prosciutto slices are crudo or cured raw. The meat is covered in salt and left to"rest" so  bacteria and blood can't touch it. after this salting period the meat is washed and left to cure for fourteen to thirty-six months. That's what gives the meat the sweet - rich flavor.

Pepperoni is also vastly popular and is used from pizza topping to salad.It's more Italian-American in origin.It's similar to salami, much loved by Southern Italians.It's usually made from a mix of pork and beef but there is now some made from turkey meat for a "healthier" lower calorie version.Pepperoni came about in 1919 ,probably to introduce Americans to Italian foods.It is loaded with nitrates to prevent botulism which gives its' signature reddish tint. Dried sausage would be a better choice. It's created from pork and fat cubes. It's seasoned with garlic, salt and spices and stuffed into a pig's intestine. A smaller version is salomino which has  a small one inch  circumference. The Emilia-Romana town of  Felino is known for it.It can also be spicy or piccante. Try it sliced in a giardeneria salad. Capocolla is another popular cold cut.It's a pork shoulder flavored with paprika and red pepper flakes. Unlike the other cold cuts which are cured. capocolla is slow roasted.Have it sliced paper thin and layered on a long roll, with tomatoes and banana peppers.

Celebrate not Columbus but other Italians and their contributions to American life. Celebrate the joy of Italian eating and Italian cold cuts. These are truly gems on the American table.

Cherry Grove Farm - The Best of Lawrenceville NJ

 New Jersey has amazing farms which have a wide variety of fresh made and organic products. Cherry Grove Farm in the quaint town of Lawrenceville right outside of Princeton. The town itself is like an American version of a Jane Austen setting.

The farm is a dairy farm , rare in New Jersey and known for their homemade mozzarella and burrata. There are several animals for petting and just nuzzling.

                             Here is an adorable baby goat. It has the softest fur and sweetest disposition.

                   This is the sheep and goat. There's also a chicken coop and fields full of cattle.

                                      Here is the sheep, possibly a ewe, along with that adorable kid.

Cherry Grove is also known for their small country store. I couldn't get over the variety and array of fresh made products.It was hard to choose  what food to buy.

                                          They have a fig almond spread and a red pepper tapanade.

These are the preserves and jams.It was hard not to pass up the bread and butter pickles and pickled green beans.

Cherry Grove Farms also has a fantastic array of bee products from honey to pollen. I want to get the pollen on my next visit.

    I decided on the Weaver's Orchard's applesauce and Oak View Acres strawberry jam, these coming from the heart of Amish country near Reading ,PA.  not  all that far from Lawrenceville. I plan on serving the apple sauce with veggie pancakes and the jam slathered on croissants.

Cherry Grove Farms is the perfect fall outing. Take a ride there to see the animals and try their amazing array of different preserves, cheeses, jams, honey, and applesauce. Enjoy  a fall day in the country

Cherry Grove Farm is located at 3200, Lawrenceville Road , Lawrenceville ,NJ. It's right off the New Jersey Turnpike and Route 206

The Most Perfect Caramel Candy Apple

 This is the season for candy apples. They are not only fun to eat, they're festive to look at. They can be easily made and made to perfection.It just takes some skill and patience.

Before you start get yourself a good candy thermometer. A perfect coat is what makes a candy apple great. If; the coating is too soft, it may slide off or becoms too hard. OXO has an excellent brand that also works for a deep fryer along with Polder which also works for cooking jellies and jams too as well as deep frying.The recipe is easy.It's three cups of sugar and half a cup of corn syrup mixed with one cup of water. Red food coloring is added when the mix hits 300 degree Farenheit or the hard crack stage. You can test this by dropping a drop of the syrup into a glass of cold water. It should form into a hard droplet not unlike hard candy. The apples are placed on lollipop or popsicle sticks and one by one swirled into the red goo. Place on  waxed paper or a butter greased cookie sheet(  doing it this way gives extra flavor).What apples should you use? I'd prefer  small Granny Smith simply because their tartness is a nice foil to the sweetness. Fuji, Jazz and Gala, all reds, also make for good candied apples. Keep in mind that some apples come with a waxy coating which will make the coating slide off. To remove it , boil six cups of water with one tablespoon white vinegar. quickly dip the apples in this for five seconds and thoroughly dry.

Caramel apples are another yummy treat right now. The question is to use Kraft caramels or take it an extra step to heaven with home made caramel. The Kraft way has always been the easiest. It's just cutting up the caramel, putting them in a microwavable bowl with two tablespoons of water. The apples are then dipped into the caramel , then swirled and finally placed on parchment paper. They can be hardened in the fridge for one hour or until firm. Homemade caramel is much more labor intensive but worth it. It's more chewy and buttery, think a rich taffy that won't pool at the bottom. You will need heavy cream or heavy whipping cream which is the backbone. You cannot use milk or milk substitutes. Corn syrup is also required because that's what makes the caramel stick to the apple. Brown sugar is used instead of white.It's softer and better tasting than the granulated for this. Butter gives caramel that creaminess and extra flavor as does vanilla extract. All the ingredients except the vanilla are cooked until the caramel reaches the soft ball stage about 235 degrees Farenheit. The vanilla extract is added a few minutes later. Let it cool before dipping the apples in. Keep in mind that caramel burns the sides of the pan so use a wet pastry brush to clean it. You can dip both kinds of apples in coconut flakes or chopped peanuts for added flavor.

Happiness right now is a candy or caramel apple. Make these homemade candy and caramel ones for a perfect fall treat. They're fun, festive and delicious!!