Your Own Springtime In Paris

Springtime in the French capital is a glorious time.The trees and flowers are in bloom.It's the perfect time to enjoy a bistro dinner outside.If you can't you can still enjoy a bistro meal such as the classic steak au poivre. It is a delicious way of cooking steaks and surprisingly it can be translated to that other harbinger of Spring - the barbecue.

David Tanis explored this in his A City Kitchen Column in today's New York Times Food section. Steak au poivre has always been a Parisian classic.There are many variations on its' origins, with it being invented between 1919 and 1930.It was first served to American tourists and surprisingly the steaks were American and unfortunately bland Chefs added peppercorns to zing it up.Mr. Tanis goes one step further and adds peppercorns from various areas in South India. He also recommend the peppers from other subtropical regions like Vietnam, Brazil and Indonesia.You can buy them at any spice market or even your local supermarket, (if you 're leery about using exotic peppers, then try a milder blend found in your store's spice and seasoning section). Mr. Tanis also zests his up with the fiery Szechuan peppercorns which are actually berries,The flavor is aromatic and musty,  spicy and sharp.Be judicious if you're using these..They can be also mouth numbing as well..

As for the steak itself , again the suggestion is beef tenderloins but you can also use steaks. For something totally  different, try chicken breasts or even tuna filets.I would recommend tenderized steaks. for steak au poivre. Mr  Tanis gives several suggestions about how to crush the corns. You can use a heavy rolling pin, a mortar and pestle or just a few whacks with a heavy cast iron skillet. Grinding them in a mill is not recommended because they will break the gadget. To prep coat steaks with the crushed peppercorns hand press the ground particles into the meat. Fry in true Gallic style with butter.It's the sauce that makes the dish sing. It starts with the drippings  and more butter. Cognac or bourbon is also added as is crème fraiche .This is poured over the steaks,. Mr. Tanis gice a quick barbecue version too. Nix the sauce and just grill the steaks over coals. , Both the traditional and the grilled would be perfect with julienned or shoestring potatoes however Mr Tanis recommends scallion mashed potatoes  and just asparagus and a garlic laced salad for the grilled steaks.


Steak au poivre is a delicious way to welcome in Spring. Imagine yourself in a bistro , enjoying it and a good red wine.Cest tres magnifique and truly delicious!

The Perfect Holiday Ham

Every home chef wants to make sure their holiday dinner will be perfect.It all starts with the main dish, the holiday ham. it has to be just right  with pink, tender flesh and a nicely scored crust. To ensure this , know what 's out there and what works best for either a large gathering or a small family dinner.The right ham makes for a memorable meal.


As you plan your out your Easter brunch, lunch or supper, consider the types of hams that are out there, namely the city or country ones,Mostly everyone has eaten a city ham, This is a moist  textured one with a bright pink interior.The saltiness is pleasant and not overpowering,It's brined  in salt water for a couple weeks or has been injected with brine.They are often smoked for added flavor.A country ham is cured with a dry rub namely a mix of both sugar and salt. These cuts  are then  air dried, hung in carefully temperature regulated rooms.They are dryer than their city cousins and are usually sold raw. There's also a membrane of mold that develops in the form of white flecks. This gives the meat an added "funky" flavor .If you think this may be a bit too wild for you then go back to the city kind. Just remember that there are four grades. The first labeled just ham. This is the highest grade and has the most delicate pork flavor. Be warned this is the most expensive. The second is ham in natural juices, which is not the meat's  but the water brined with it.This is about the best ham for any get together .It is meaty and flavorful along with being the best priced.There are also ham and water added and ham and water product. These are the cheapest  thanks to a good amount of liquid added and the lesser amount of ham..

The next  question is whole ham or half?  A whole ham is perfect for parties of fourteen and over  while the half is good for smaller affairs Another choice to ponder should it be the butt or shank?The  butt half is the upper part of the ham. The meat here is mouth melting tender and flavorful.It does contain the hipbones which can make for a difficult carve. The shank is the lower part of the ham and is easier to carve. However , since this was the area that got the most exercise, the meat is chewier and somewhat tougher. What about bone versus boneless?. Many more experienced home chefs prefer boned because it keeps the shape. Boneless ones  have to be reshaped using a vacuum tumbler which makes the meat a bit spongy .. Also avoid spiral cut hams. These have been precut and tend to dry out while baking. There are also glazes to consider. One of the best is brown sugar and pineapple juice . . This is a fruity sweet one that offsets the meat's saltiness. Some Southern home chefs swear by the Coke and Pepsi based ones. There are also the wild fusions such as root beer and barbecue sauce or peach jalapeno. Figure  what your guests would like, and then take it from there,

The perfect ham makes for the perfect Easter meal. Choose the one that's right for your area of expertise as well for how many you are cooking for. This will ensure that the dinner will be not only delicious but memorable.

The Perfect Pie Book

Spring brings all sorts of occasions to bake. There are graduations, showers, family get togethers and the first of barbecues. All of these deserve some good old fashioned fresh form the oven treats. Luckily there is a great new pie book to inspire . This gem has homey old fashioned pies to sophisticated frozen ones. There are also a few bonus muffins and cookie recipes thrown in as well as a salute to Scandinavian sweets.

The amazing book is called The Norske Nook of Pies And Other Recipes( University of Wisconsin Press) and it was written by Jerry Bechard and Cindee Borton-Parker.. Mr Bechard is the owner of this Midwest landmark while Ms Borton-Parker is the regional manager for the chain of Norske Nooks that dot the area. The restaurant on its' own is internationally famous with fans from all over the world visiting the Norske Nooks  for their homestyle meals  and homemade pies. Mr. Bechard bought the restaurant from Helen Meyhe,      a hardworking farm house wife who was talented and dedicated in giving locals delicious meals and desserts. Mr. Bechard bought the Norske Nook from her, keeping all of her recipes, especially the famed pie ones. from there it was an explosion of more Norske Nooks, so named to reflect   the area's heavy Scandinavian heritage.The first was and still in Osseo, Wisconsin, in the western part of the state.it was here that Mrs. Meyhre and later Mr. Bechard created a dazzling array  of  pies. There are traditional fruit ones  to decadent ice cream pies to creamy custard ones. The cookbooks also has a section on the restaurant's cookies,tortes and muffins along with mouth watering Norwegian and Swedish sweets.

This is really is the best pie cookbook out there. Novice home bakers will appreciate the chapter on crusts, from the very basic Crisco one to the more sophisticated nut torte crust (actually very easy to make)There's also  chapters on homemade puddings and toppings like lingonberry and praline. There are recipes for single crust and double crust pies, as well as for incredibly luscious meringue topped ones..These are not just reserved for lemon, there is coconut meringue and rhubarb cream along with sour cream raisin. The frozen pie recipes are drool worthy, like the cookies and cream one and the Northwoods Root Beer Float Pie. This last is made with root beer syrup and  vanilla pudding, perfect for ending a barbecue. Mr. Bechard and Ms. Borton-Parker also include a chapter on tortes,These are thin crusted pie variations with fillings from chocolate to rhubarb and elegant    for bridal   and baby showers.The Norske Nook is also known for cookies and muffins and they're included   here as well.One section that is novel and worth mentioning is the salute to Scandinavian treats. The area was heavily populated by Norwegian and Swedish immigrants in the mid 1800's and the influence is still strong there today, Home bakers can try the impossibly delicate Swedish rosettes which are fried rather than baked.The book's only savory dish , lefses or potato pancakes is also mentioned.along with oatmeal bread . Home chefs can also try the homey,spiced Rommegrot Norwegian pudding or the crispy   kumkakas and Scandiavian Sankakkals.

Buy The Norske Nook Book of Pies and Other Recipes to make delicious desserts for the many Spring gatherings.Any recipe is perfect for a graduation party  or bridal shower or even a family barbecue.. Try them along with the many other recipes for cookies, muffins and Scandinavian treats . Then enjoy what Norske Nook lovers have enjoyed for years!

Fun Easter Baking

Easter brings about all sorts of holiday baking, from traditional to the whimsical. Whether it's a rich Russian Orthodox cake to basket cupcake, nothing beats them as a nice end to a dinner with family and friends.They're the perfect compliment to those chocolate eggs and marshmallow Peeps.

It's mostly Italy and Eastern Europe that give us centuries old Easter pies and breads. Southern Italy has the pastiera.It is a ricotta and egg pie, with a buttery crust. Lemon zest, candied fruit , vanilla and cinnamon are blended together along with the dairy and 1/2 pound of  cooked wheat.It's history comes from the baptism ceremonies on Easter night during the reign of Emperor Constantine/ Another traditional Italian Easter cake is La Colomba or the dove. You can buy this however a homemade one is always better appreciated.This is from the Lombard region where Milano is and it is true of Northern Italian baking.It is redolent with butter and almonds along with candied fruit. Yeast gives it its rise and sugar crystals give it a bright sparkle.A week after the Western Easter is the Orthodox which is an all out time to bake.The Russians make kulich,  which resembles a pan d'oro, topped with a thick layer of icing.It is baked in a coffee can to give it that unique tall, tubular  shape.Like the Colomba it is a yeast cake and chock full of eggs , butter, raisins and almonds.Orange rind, vanilla and the exotic spice of cardamom also round out its' unique flavor while its.  icing is a simple lemon glaze made with confectioner's sugar.

Of course there is a fun, and playful side to Easter baking.One of the most favorite and most made are the Easter egg cookies.You can use your own recipe or simply buy the Pillsbury prebaked ones. For the icing you can use an already made one like Betty Crocker,a buttercream or a dyed glaze. The simplest is the glaze.It holds the best and is a great canvas for different decorations. You can use an icing pen to write the kids' names or a variety of sprinkles , dragees and sanded sugars  to come up with fun stripes or polka dots. Bunny and chick cookic can also be fun, For "fluffy" looking ones sprinkle on regular coconut flakes for the bunnies and dyed yellow ones for the chicks.Dying coconut is easy, Dribble gel frosting into a bowl of the shreds and stir until every piece is colored. Spoon and spread the flakes  on waxed paper until completely dry. Another cute idea are Easter basket cupcakes.Make any kind of flavor and then ice with a simple buttercream frosting. Roll the cupcake edges in green dyed coco nut or pipe green icing around the top. Add jelly beans , chocolate eggs or a Peep on top. The handle is a curved green pipe cleaner For added sweetness you can glue on a regular satin mini bow or flower on them. 

Easter baking is both traditional and fun. No matter what you create , a rich kulich cake or an Easter egg cookie, it's sure to be a treat.They are sweet holiday endings that give a finishing flair to a Spring dinner.

Healthy Easter Treats

Easter is coming and that means a sugar high that will last the month of April. Yet is there such a thing as healthy Easter treats? Yes but there's some work involved.Are they worth it? If it is a fairly healthy then the answer is yes.

Peeps abound right now,The seductively cute chicks and bunnies beckon us to take a bite. Yet they're full of sugar and artificial coloring, not a good thing for raising an all natural kid.However there is a bright spot. Peeps can be made at home.What you will need is honey, unflavored gelatin, vanilla extract and a pinch of salt. For the colors get India Tree Natural Dyes. This is a great company specializing in chemical free spices and decorating ingredients . Use their dyes or pretty sanding sugars which can be bought at La Cuisine or Amazon along with Chef Shop and Far Away Stores..The recipe can be tricky because home chefs will be working with a 270 degree F syrup that has to be beaten with the gelatin. Cookie cutters can be used to make the chicky and bunny shapes.If you are adept at decorating you can make the chicks using a piping bag and different tips.

Chocolate is an Easter must. Everyone loves filled eggs and chocolate lollipops. Instead of coconut  and marshmallow eggs, think about chocolate dipped fruit. Use strawberries, bananas and even grapes.You can also make different kinds of chocolate treats using  70 to 80 per cent dark chocolate .If you still crave coconut , think about making nests. This is a simple haystack recipe, toasted flaked coconut melted with dark chocolate. Instead of the usual mound, flatten with an oiled spoon with a deeper indentation in the middle. You can even fill them with all natural (yes all natural) home made jelly beans. It involves more gelatin however you can add all natural juices such  as lemon and orange to flavor them. To make them healthy use Stevia , an all natural sweetener along with the dyes from India Tree.There is one caveat, Creating  them is labor intensive and you do need jelly bean molds which can be bought , again, at Amazon.Have an assistant to help out especially with filling the molds.

Yes, you can have healthy all natural treats. They may be extra worth but the results re well worth it, Having kids eating chemical homemade, and best of all, less sugary, Peeps, chocolates, and jelly beans

Spring Holiday Sides

With both Easter Passover and Orthodox Easter happening soon, it's time to start thinking sides and even an extra main dish. The sides are perfect for complimenting any lamb or ham served. an extra meat, brisket can be made on it's own or if you're having a big holiday party.either way it's a delicious way to  welcome in the holidays.

Both were explored in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Melissa Clark and David Tanis wrote about brisket and turning winter veggies into Spring sides. For Ms. Clark's A Good Appetite column she takes a traditional brisket recipe and punches it up with a horseradish gremolata. .This is usually a lemon zest based condiment, sort of like an Italian chutney. Herbs like parsley , mint or sage along with garlic is added. There is often a third component such as Pecorino Romano cheese, anchovies or pines nuts are added. Ms Clark makes her with a traditional Passover ingredient, horseradish.It' mixed with lemon zest and parsley to zing up the brisket's flavor. Home chefs could try an orange and grapefruit zested gremolata with the parsley for a colorful accompaniment for an Easter ham.

David Tanis' City Kitchen feature spins on winter vegetables (and yes, they're still with us) in the less temperate zones}While most home chefs are goggling over new asparagus stalks and peas , those  in the wintry areas are still dealing with winter's bounty. Mr. Tanis has excellent recipes for the, His one for beets is perfect for Easter.It involves baking them like potatoes, until they are truly soft. split them, and put a pat of butter and crème fraiche on them. Add fresh herbs like tarragon and chervil which give s them a nice Springlike zest.Mr. Tanis also suggests parsnips. These can be peeled chopped and simmered, later served with brown butter. Another cold weather fave cauliflower is made Venetian style, that is richly spiced with cinnamon, saffron and coriander along with raisins and pine nuts.Carrots can be roasted in coconut oil and jazzed up with  chopped  jalapeno, mint and chervil. You can also serve them with butter and garlic too.

Holiday meals, whether for Passover and Easter deserve delicious sides and spikes like gremolata. Make  these to compliment lamb and ham. They'll liven up these main dishes with spring verve.

A Good Springtime Lamb

You can tell we're heading towards Easter and Passover by the arrival of lamb in supermarkets. it ones of the most traditional main dishes to serve in Spring.It is tasty and tender if done right.. Lamb can be a temperamental meat to cook, however it can be redeemed with the right recipe.

Julia Moskin explored this in The New York Times Food section today. She  contributed to the Recipe Lab  today , writing and experimenting with lamb.A home chef should start off with an American lamb. Australian and New Zealand born ones tend to be bred smaller and killed at a younger age  than ours. The result is a meat more cottony in texture with less taste. The plus side is that they are plentiful and cheap.Searing , not roasting is the best way to cook them, so you may want to reserve these lambs for your Spring or Summer barbecue. The American variety goes to slaughter at an older age which yields more meat. Be prepared to pay a higher price for ,though. A rack  of American lamb can cost as much as $55 a pound at some of New York's pricier butcheries. Also try to get half a leg as opposed to an entire one  because it roasts evenly However if you're throwing a big holiday dinner go for the whole leg, If your roast  is for Passover go to a kosher butcher for it. The sciatic nerve has to be removed, If not go for a double loin or shoulder for a more Passover approved cut.


How lamb is prepared is the most important. You want it to have the right flavor.It should have a savory mineral taste like well aged steak or raw oyster, Ms Moskin states. How to achieve this?.The answer comes in  the unlikely pairing of anchovy and butter which gives the meat an unami taste. You can sub in mustard for the fish if you don't like it.The anchovy  butter caramelizes the top layer , giving the roast a nice crunchy coating.It also enhances the accompanying gravy  too. Rosemary, another springtime herb along with garlic is also used . All of this is mashed up into a paste (use a mortar and pestle for mashing the anchovies) and smeared liberally all over the leg.as soon as it 's popped into the oven , cut a lemon in half and squeeze its' juice over the meat. Cooking time is between a hour to an hour and a half. The gravy is made as the roast is set out to warm .This is the drippings mixed with white wine as a kind of sharp jus. Serve with spring vegetables such as asparagus , dandelion greens and artichokes.

Lamb is the main star of any holiday or springtime dinner. Make it this way for a mouth watering dish that will quickly become a holiday tradition. It's a new spin on an old tradition.