Dolce Per Natale

Christmas is primarily a German invention , giving us traditional foods and sweets. Yet it's the Italians who have given us some of the best desserts for the holidays. Theirs is a fun and flavorful , with rich ingredients and ancient recipes. Both adults and children enjoy everything from the colorful strufoli to sophisticated  torrone.

Italian and Italian American households go into a baking overdrive when December rolls around. They don't go cookie crazy as other countries do for the holiday. They create interesting sweets or dolce that are culinary masterpieces.Every  Neopolitan has a cherished handed down strufoli recipe.This is made with small puffs of citrus flavored dough that has been fried in vegetable oil.After frying and draining, the balls are then coated with a warm honey syrup and piled into pyramids (the size depends on how many strufoli have been made),I the same vein as a croquembouche.They are dusted with multicolored sprinkles but they can also be dusted with confectioner's sugar, silver dragees or almond slivers.Pizzelle, which could be classified as a cookie, is a light airy waffle. It is one of the most ancient of desserts and is made with a simple batter of just eggs, butter , flour and sugar. Popular flavorings include anise, vanilla and lemon. This is the perfect antidote for all those heavy Christmas snaps and gingermen.Any sweet tooth can eat a pile of them and not feel loggy afterwards.

The Sicilians are also known for their Christmas sweets. One favorite is buccellato,  Christmas fig cake.It's a ring filled with a fruit paste of dried figs and walnuts, along with chocolate , cinnamon and cloves.It is also made for a baby's baptism and given to the family by the godparents. Another favorite,(and my personal one) is pandoro, Translated into golden bread, this is a rich eggy and buttery yeast cake from the city of Verona. It's deep yellow coloring comes from the seven egg yolks added to the dough. It is baked in a star shaped pan and dusted with confectioners sugar. The middle can be hollowed out and filled with flavored whip cream or marscapone. You could also add some berries , diced fruit or even pomegranate seeds.Sliced pandoro can even be made into French toast as an sophisticated Christmas brunch.Its' cousin, panettone, is from Milan, and is similar in shape and flavor. It differs only in the fact that it contains citrons, candied cherries and raisins and makes for  nice breakfast toast. Little bricks of torrone is also given out .This is an airy nougat  made solely from honey, egg whites and nuts and comes to Italy from Spain.There are two versions, soft and hard, both are very tasty and a nice departure from all the chocolate served during this time of year.

Italy knows how to celebrate Christmas. It's contribution of sweets is dazzling and delicious . They reflect the different influences and regions that makes its holiday traditions unique

Holiday Helpers

The holidays bring about some of the worst stress for home chefs and bakers. There's never enough time to cook or bake. Quantities of food have to be doubled, thanks to family and friends visiting. There is a solution Holiday help in the form of already prepared foods and ingredients. These aid considerably in creating the perfect Christmas dinner and dessert.

One of the best ideas is to rely on your supermarket for party platters. Chains like the  A&P and Stop & Shop provide excellent ones with shrimp and sandwiches. Extras such as cocktail sauce along with  cups of mustard and mayo are always included too. A prepared platter of crudites can serve as a quick antipasto, freeing you up to concentrate on the main meal.A few places, like Popeye's, can help with offering to deep fry a whole turkey. If you're hosting a large crowd then contact a diner or restaurant owner, ask them to roast  your roast beef, ham or turkey. For  those too busy to bake, then it's a trip to the local bakery.Here you can buy an attractive cookie tray that has all kinds, including the coveted chocolate dipped ones, for the chocolate lovers in your family. Also some supermarkets such as Stop & Shop have beautifully iced and decorated holiday cakes and whimsical cakes makes out of cupcakes, This last is always a crowd pleaser, especially for the kids.

If you're still intent on doing it all for yourself, then look for short cuts.Again this is where convenience over convention wins out.Don't be afraid to serve Stovetop stuffing. It tastes  just as good as the family recipe and  also works just as well sopping up gravy, Don't sweat the mashed potatoes. There are the instant kind  and they come in different flavors too,like chive and butter and garlic. Baked ham does deserve a side of baked beans but you can use the canned type instead. .Guests always love a basket of fresh hot rolls with their  meal, yet baking them can be trying, especially if there are time constraints. If that's the case,  then get reacquainted with Poppin Fresh. PIlsbury has excellent biscuits and crescent rolls that go well with any holiday roast. They also have breadsticks, perfect for those also serving lasagna and pasta as part of the Christmas meal. You can also depend on them for cookies too. Buy a few rolls or squares of the already made chocolate chip cookie dough. Also buy the sugar cookies too. These are great blank canvasses for festive decorating. If you're intent on cake for dessert, remember think mixes, already made icing and |Cool Whip.

Holiday meals are meant to be outstanding. However if you need help then get it in the form of prepared platters or packaged goods.. These can assist you in creating the perfect Christmas dinner , complete with a fancy dessert.

Porchetta For The Holidays

Porchetta  is a nice change of pace from the usual Christmas turkey and ham.If done in the savory Tuscan style it takes a plain shoulder cut to another level of deliciousness. It's a great departure from the standard pork roast, , this one is full of spicy flavor and tender cuts.

Melissa  Clark wrote about it in her A Good Appetite column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Her recipe is for a crowd but it could easily work for a Christmas or New Year's Eve dinner or on New Year's Day, with a side of polenta and broccoli rabe. Ms. Clark recommends  using a pork shoulder which is the easiest to cook. She prefers bone in shoulder but a boneless one is good too. The goal is to have a crunchy, aromatic top layer of crackling with tender, juicy meat underneath.There are two ways of cooking it . Braise the meat in liquid first and then crisp the skin.Another method is to roast low and slow and then turn up the heat at the end. Ms. Clark recommends starting off with a high heat until the fat under the skin starts to render and then let it finish cooking at a low heat.It is usually ready after 30 minutes in a 400 degree oven.

What makes the porchetta different from other roasts are the spices and herbs that coat it. You start off scoring the fat to better hold the mix. Fennel fronds and seeds are used for sweetness which will compliment's the meat's flavor.These are crushed with rosemary , sage ,garlic along with salt.Red pepper is also added for some zing and bite. Salt and black pepper are also thrown in as well as some lemon zest..Pour in olive oil to create a mash.Liberally rub  the finished producall over the roast, ,making sure it is rubbed into the scored sections.Boneless cuts need to be tied up as well. Both need to be put into a covered bowl and left to marinate either overnight or for at least six hours. You can use oregano and top with orange slices for a more authentic roast. It should be served with a chilled champagne as Eric Asimov of the Pour section recommended,

Porchetta is a great holiday roast to make and to serve. It is savory with the  fun plus of a tasty crackling and a tender flesh underneath. Make it and enjoy the blend of pork juices mixed with aromatic herbs and spices.

A Culinary Trip To Korea

It's nice to take a break from the usual holiday fare. It's refreshing to have sushi or egg rolls, however after a while they too become stale or predictable. It's time then to try Korean food. It's a break from the usual Asian based fare with it's diversity of flavors, ingredients and textures. There's something for everyone from the meat lover to the sushi enthusiast.

Pete Wells, senior writer, at the New York Times Wednesday Food section went on an extensive  culinary tour of the Korean section in Flushing Queens. This borough of New York City is home to one of the largest Asian communities outside of Asia itself. Primarily known for its' large population of Chinese immigrants, it is also  gaining a sizeable Korean population as well.It is easily accessible both by car ,subway and bus  (although Manhattan too has good Korean restaurants) Mr. Wells sampled all the national dishes from kim chi to bulgoki,One of the best known dishes is kalbi or Korean barbecue. This is a marinated short rib that he sampled at Mapo Korean BBQ.The ribs are cut from the best, Black Angus and marinated for a long time until tender.It's best eaten in crispy squares and is one of the most flavorful in all the boroughs. For barbecued pork he suggests KangHo Dong Baekjeong. The owner  Kang Ho Dong.,a former Korean wrestler, comedian and variety show host  grills a pork collar, basically the pig's neck with sweet soy marinade.He also serves an unusual mix of eggs and corn with a cheese topping.Both dishes are very popular and are his signature dishes

One of the hallmarks of Korean cuisine is chicken,The Koreans have embraced friend chicken and elevated it to haute cuisine, especially at the restaurant ,aptly named Mad For Chicken.It is Mr Wells favorite chicken because of the way the crust is, puffy and golden, hovering just above the flesh,.It comes with a savory garlic sauce for dipping. Seafood lovers can go to Bada Story to try hwe or Korean sashimi.The Korean version is all about the texture which is crunchy and snappy along with being chewy. Interestingly enough, Bada Story starts off with fried fish fingers along with an on point seafood pancake.The highlight, though, is fluke draped over frosty ceramic cups , a textural combo of chewy and melty.Unlike the Chinese or Japanese, the Korean make a blood sausage.It is called soondae and it's actually pork casing filled with vermicelli.Pork blood is added for flavor and it can be eaten with chile salt as a tasty snack. They also are fond of black goat, which is first served with a chili paste and then , the leftovers are turned into a soup to be served as a second course.There's also rice porridge at Bon Juk and the traditional noodle fare at Geo Si Gi.

Take a break from the usual holiday fare with Korean. It is hearty enough for a winter's night but fun for an evening out with friends.It's a variety of meats and flavors, with a dose of heat and sweet on the side,

Hanukkah Spins

Hanukkah starts tonight and with it eight days of feasting and enjoying time honored recipes. Some of the main ones , such as latkes and sufganiyot reflect the miracle of the oil in the temple. Other dishes celebrate the victory over the Maccabees and what the widow Judith served.Some are more modern, drawing on current American trends. All in all , it makes for holiday eating  with a story to tell.

One of the most well known is the potato pancake, or the latke. It's origins come from the victor , Judith who killed Holoferne,  served cheesecakes (Not the modern kind that's laden with all sorts of fruits and chocolate). They were replaced with potatoes, eaten mostly by Ashkenazi Jews from Eastern Europe. The patties are labor intensive but worth it. If you want a spin, then try Dr, Mayim Bialik's (The Big Bang' Theory's  . Amy Farrah Fowler) root vegetable one .These have shredded zucchini and sweet potatoes along with red onions for sharpness, crunch and flavor. Russet potatoes are used as a base.. These can still be served with sour cream for the entire holiday experience.Home chefs have added their spins. Some use shredded parsnips with the potatoes, while others swear by apple chunks - which is  a twist on serving them with applesauce. Also if you plan on making them more than once this Hanukah , then try variations such as sweet potato with cinnamon. If you still want tradition but something zingy then add some rosemary and sea salt to the batter. Also sprinkle fresh ground sea salt and pepper on the latkes as they're draining.

Jelly doughnuts are another Hanukah favorite. These are super popular in Israel where they're filled with the traditional raspberry jam along with vanilla, chocolate and cappuccino creams. Called sufganiyot; they are a yeast doughnut first "stuffed" with usually the raspberry but sometimes also with apricot jam. Confectioners sugar is then  liberally sprinkled on them as they 're draining and cooling. Fillings can be updated to suit a younger generation's taste. Some home bakers now  fill theirs with Nutella (which is Kosher) and even cranberry  stuffed in a pumpkin doughnut. You could also try it as a giant baked doughnut with filling too. Fried honey balls are also made,, popularly called loukomades to represent what the Greek born Maccabees ate. They're also called bimuelos and eaten more by the Sephardic Jews of Spain. Cinnamon is either added to the honey based syrup or the balls are rolled in them after frying.Some American Sephardim serve them with a side of pancake syrup as opposed to honey.

Hanukah is a time for remembering the victory over the Maccabees and the miracle of the oil. The dishes reflect both the rich Jewish heritage and changing tastes. These treats are both modern and traditional along with being tasty.

Polenta- from Fancy To Plain

It's amazing how corn meal is so versatile. Polenta can go from ultra fancy and sophisticated to cozy and homey. You can make it for a crowd or just for yourself.It's a quick meal whether for  lunch dinner or even breakfast.

Polenta is basically grits done Italian style.It was originally made from barley and chickpeas. until the 1600s when corn or maize was introduced to Italy.Polenta is a slow cooking mash , usually taking forty five minutes to almost an hour.The texture depends on the amount of water added. Less will give you a chewier texture while more will impart a silky, almost porridge like feel in the mouth .Always add salt to the boiling water. One of the homiest is polenta in a bowl, liberally laced with butter and Parmesan. It's a simple lunch or dinner. perfect after a night of holiday feasting.Another idea is using it as a base for chicken caccciatore. This is just chicken breasts or even vegan soy chicken strips with a tomato and mushroom gravy on top. Leftover polenta is good , fried in pieces and served with eggs sunnyside up. The two are cooked together to make a kind of corny frittata.

Polenta can easily go elegant. You can buy polenta logs and slice them into rounds.Try them laden with sliced wild mushrooms mixed with cream cheese and spices. For a different spin on party elegance served them topped with vegan caviar which is a mix of quinoa and capers. You can also top the mini cakes with the real thing and a dollop of crème fraiche. A fun appetizer is a mini polenta bite topped with goat cheese and sundried tomatoes.Polenta can also be great at an intimate party of four or six. Make a bake with it, layering the mash with fontina cheese and mushrooms. Since it's so complex in flavor , serve it with  simple green salad and white wine. Polenta is actually a great side with chili because it's blandness is a great foil to the other's spiciness.

Polenta is just so versatile. Have it all to yourself , in a steamy bowl , sprinkled with cheese or as a party round with a fancy topping. It's a great ingredient , fitting all your culinary needs.

Your Themed Holiday Party

What better than heading to an exotic place for the holidays .There are  aromas, spice laden and rich, different foods, just waiting to be tried,However you  don't have to go around the world for couscous or gravlax. You can have a themed food holiday party, celebrating a country's cuisine. It could reflect your ethnic heritage or be one you're fascinated by. Just make it fun, tasty and different

Of course one of the most exotic is Moroccan cuisine. It's highly spiced, fragrant and different.Treat your guests to couscous, one of Morocco's most famous dishes. This is a Berber dish of steamed semolina with any kind of meat or veggie stew ladled over it.Try a spicy lamb one , seasoned with cinnamon and cardamom and for seafood lovers  one with cod. Another dish , perfect for a get together is a tangine, This is a slow cooked savory stew which could also be served with couscous. Luckily tangine can be cooked up  in you pressure cooker because it requires four to five hours of slow cooking. Ingredients are a mix of sweet and savory . Dates are cooked with lamb and spices .You can also make a vegan one with tomatoes and carrots or olives and mixed veggies. For more authenticity you can add a heavy sprinkling of almonds on top. Chinese food is another party favorite, however stay away from the ho hum egg rolls and fried rice. Try a Szechuan buffet instead.The dishes are bold and fiery ,thanks to the use of the Szechuan pepper huajiaao.Szechuan hot pot is the perfect party dish. Imagine a big pot of everything from wontons to dumplings to seafood.One of the most delicious is tea smoked duck. This is  delicately spiced duck that can be cooked and even smoked in a home wok. It's served in melt in paper thin slices that melt in your mouth.

England may not be the first place you think of for exotic or even exotic food. Yet their Christmas party foods are fun and tasty.  Remember all those dinners you've seen on Downton Abbey? You can sort of recreate them for your guests. Roast turkey and ham for guests along with setting up a carving table,If this is too much , then  ask your local diner to do all the cooking or roast one meat while a friend or relative can help out by roasting the other. Mini mince pies are always a fun treat as are sausage rolls and Cornish pasties.End the night with a flaming plum pudding, alit with a good dose of brandy. Also give out crackers, those holiday favors that are filled with a paper crown, a prize and a corny joke,Scandanavians know how to throw a tasty holiday get together, Make a plate of kottbullar or the famed Swedish meatballs. These are a yummy mix of veal, pork and beef. Milk soaked bread crumbs are added for body.Gravlax is another treat. This is cured North Atlantic salmon that s brined in sugar , salt and dill.It's served on rye toast rounds  which can be buttered. Have it with the fiery Aquavit for a holiday toast. Finish with the tradition of seven cookies, including a take on the holiday ginger snap , the heart shaped Peperkakor

Travel the world for your holiday party. Enjoy the fiery cuisine of the Szechuan provence or the sultry spices of Morocco.Nibble mince pies from England or gingerbread cookies from Sweden. It's a fun way to celebrate the season with a culinary tour.