A Deconstructed Casserole

 For some reason green bean casserole has become ubiquituous with Thankgiving. It's am American classic that continues to be loved despite its' reputation? Why?

Chef and regular contributor Eric KIn wrote about this standard in yesterday's New York Times Food section. The recipe iself was devveloped as an extra for Campbell's Cream of Mushroom soup at a time when cassaroles were all the rage. It was the mid 1950;s, 55 to be exact when Dorcas. B Reilly created  this odd combo of green beans soup and frittered onions doused with soy sauce and black pepper.It was an innovator because no on had thought to add onion rings to a casserole before. The inspiration came from longtime food editor and writer Cecily Brownstone when she had dined on something similar at a press conference in Florida. She called it "Beans and stuff', a simpl casserole of green beans with an intriguing topping.It swept th nation. Now it's being deconstructed, thanks to Chef KO, who is simply taking it apart or as he puts it "taking apart a toy to see how it works".How do you take something with parts made from processed food and turn those parts into something fresh and organic.

It starts with the soup itself. Nix that and create a simple white sauce. Leave the mushrooms out if so that the green beans alone will shine. Another must have in the recipe is celery salt .It'll give the casserole a quiet unami flavoring.This is important ingredient when making the sauce - a simple blend of heavy cream, butter and white four.It's superb at bringing out the flavors of the celery salt and another ingredient nutmeg. As for the green beans themselves, Mr. KIm recommnends using frozen ones that will be braised in chicken stock, Doing such will bring out their vegetal nuttiness. DON"T use canned green beans. They'll disintegrate into green mush thanks to all that time in the liquid. Keep the topping of French's crispy fried onions. YOu could try to reolicate them by placing chopped white oniona and frazzling them in an air fryer. However the cammed ones are everyone's favorite part. They do add savoriness and crunch, which is what this bake needs.

Yes, you can deconstruct a classic Thanksgiving recipe. It's easier than you think. The end result is an elevated version of the classic green bean casserole.

Pies For All

 What better defines Rhanksgiving thna pie?It's the crowning end to a fantastic meal. It's also perfect hours afterwards with a good cup of coffee or tea? Which one to make? There are so many.

Regular contributor and baker par extraordinaire Claire Saffittz wrote about serveal of them along with giving recipes in today's THnaksgiving special New York Times Food section (this is a keeper issue, there are tons fo recipes and tips in it to get you through the big day.) She offers unusual spins on traditional recipes. Her pumpkin pie with a top layer of pepeitas sounds intriguing and tasty . The pumpkin seeds are coated in maple and incorporated in the filling itself. It adds ctunch to a usually silky mouth feel. Her pecan slab pie has the right amount of crunchy pecans but without all the sugat.It has a cream filling which cuts down on the sugariness. The slab is made with brown butter which has an even nuttier flavor. You could also try  the caramel apple pie, always a treat. This is more kije a tarte tatin with no cinnamon or allspice needed for flavor. It's the butter and caramel along with the apples that give it such an intense flavor.Ms Saffitxz also includes the recipe for flaky pie crust which can be also used for Christmas pies as well.

For the non traditional there is a lemon cream pie with honey and ginger along with a cranberry cheesecake tart. The first has a filling of heavy cream, egg yolks and hone. This is is whisked together with lemon juice and fresh ginger. The crust is different too, being made with ground sugar wafers or for more gingery zing ginger snaps Four tablespoons of butter and one large egg yolk bind it . UNlike holidays pies slathered with whipped cream, this is topped with either sour cream or creme fraiche and decoarated with honey roasted lemon slices. The cranberry cheese cake has the usual grahamm cracker or speculoos cookie crust . The filling is an untraditional mix of goat and cream cheese along with heavy cream and two large eggs.Vanilla extract and grated orange zest give it its flavor. The topping is fresh cranberries cooked in amox fo gelatin and cranberry and orange juices. After being placed in an ice water bath the berries are arranged on the tart . The gelatin mix is then poured over this and unmolded.

Pies are a mainstay on any Thanksgiving table. Opt for the tradtional. Opt for the non traditional if you want to mxi it up.Either way it's still a slice fo a tasty dessert.

Twealing And Perking

 Sometimes even storebought foods need a perk or a tweak to make them more palable. If that sauce is not quite tasty enough - add something? Or the pie crust that needs a little something extra. Add to it. It makes for a tastuer bite.

One of the easiest items to zing up is sauce and gravy. Jarred tomato sauce is tasty but it can be made to taste almost like mom's. Add olive oil to give the sauce some body. This gives it a smoother texture to it which makes for  a silky bite . Sliced green or red peppers are always a good plus to any tomato sauce. Both kinds add sweetness and depth to the flavor. Mushrooms give a chewiness to the sauce as added in sausage. THis could be vegan or non vegan for a more heartier sauce.For a vodka sauce splash in a quarter cup of vodka and half a cup of heavy cream. Frozen pizza can also benefit from some tweaks and perks too. A good sprinkling of oregano helps improve the taste  along with a liberal drizzle of oil. Most frozen pizza have just the usua; topping but you cna perk up a plan 9one with artichi]oke hears, greena dn black olives alogn with vegan susage and even bacon. Scatter pineapple chunks on it as well if you want to . You can apply this idealogy to Thanksgiving foods too, You could add some steamed chestnut to that Stovetop Suffing or add a drop of cognac to jarred gravy.

Baked goods can also get some tweaks and zings. Croissants are good on their own but add some almond butter mixed with cinnamon to create a tasty breakfast or brunch treat.You could also split them, warm them and add apple butter as well.  Since this is pie season, premade pie crusts can always get a boost. Brush them with melted butter for a more homemade taste. You could also brush heavy cream on and then dust the edges with granulated sugar. Zing up that store bought pumpkin pie with some fin homemade toppings. You can make a pecan streusel. Use toasted pecan pieces, oats melted butter , brown sugar and salt. Pop into the oven fro ten minutes to get the streusel crunchy.You could also drizzle on homemade or store bought caramel sauce. As for that other Thanksgiving staple pecan pie. think of serving it with a dollop of bourbon whipped cream. This is combining heavy cream with confectioner's sugar and adding one tablespoon of bourbon along with a teaspoon of vanilla.  Bought shortbread cookies, a favorite winter treat can be elevated a notch when dipped in melted dark chocolate.

Turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. Add some zing to every day ingredients or store bought foods. Giving them some oomph wikk make a difference.

Six Years Without The Chef

 It has been six years since we lost the Master Chef of this household. I wonder what she would have thought of some of my most recerntly acquired tastes. would she have liked the Caribbean and Puerto Rican influences in my diet? I wonder.

I work at a school where there are some interesting food choices in the campus .I have finally tried jerk chicken and loved it. There'sa fieriness to it that add totp the meat's flavor. Would my Mom would have liked it? That's a hard question. She would have appreciated the work going into it but the spiciness may have put her off a bit.I know she would have had fun in replicating the recipe. She may have tweaked it and would have eliminated fiery Scotch bonnets and added more crushed peppers and/or nutmeg. She would have also tried making a vegan version of it as well. Then there are the tostones  and empanada from the Borracua stand. She would have like the tostones if they had the pink sauce, a mix of ketchup, mayo and some hot sauce.I think she would have like the empanadas too, enjoying their crispiness  and either the tender spiced chicken insid or the pizza one , rich with sauce and mozzarella.

My Mom was open to all sorts of recipes and flavors. I know she would have dome some amazing recipes with my Berbere spice that I use for my Ethiopian stews. Would she have approved of my taking the family recipes for both the broccoli and green bean salad and changing them slightly? I use onion powder instead of fresh minced onions. Ir's easier and the onion flavor is nicely distributed. Using the powder also gets rid of the threat of heartburn which comes with eating fresh cut onions.As for air frying, she'd probably OK it. She would have liked the ease of it  along with the crunchiess it gives to almost everything. She would have definitely gotten one and used it on a daily basis if they had come out forty or thirty years ago. (why didn;t they? There's not much technology in them- they're jsut a mini convection ovens after all). All our meals would have been cooked in them from chicken to ham. all made delicious thanks to her magic touch

My Mom would have like the new addtions to my diet. She would have liked my air fryer.They would have been perfect for her.

For The Veterans

 Today is Veteran's Day. We honor them only for one day yer we should honor our veterans  - no matte r their age -  all year round. It could be a simple meal or just taking them out for dinner.

If there are elderly  veterans in your family, include him or her in your dinner plans once or twice a week. They'll appreciate a hot homecooked meal. Make sure they bring home leftovers thatcan last them a day or two. If they're not coming , still make extra about  and bring it over . ANother idea is taking them food shopping. They'll not only be grateful fort eh ride over but will be grateful for the company. If there's a Dunkin Donuts or a Starbucks there,treat them to a coffee or a tea along with some sweet snack. It'll be  a nice afternoon out for both of you.If the veterans are young and have kids, ask to babysit the littel ones while they have a quiet dinner out. A nice gatitude  gift is a gift certificate to their favorite restaurant.

There are now veterans that are having homes built by Habitat For Humanity.. If these are your neighbors, then greet them warmly with a basket of food. You could arrange a  basket full of pasta, jarred sauces and  grated cheese.Another diea is having a basket of different fruits and vegetables forhealthy eating. Including whole wheat crackers amd maybe  gluten  free cookies. Also a lovely kitchen gift is always nice, whether they're dish towels ro even oven mitts. Also integrate them into neighborhood activities like barbecues and block parties to make them feel truly welcomed. Invlite them to go to local farmers markets with you or evne grocery shopping. 

Our veterans have given this country  their time, blood and sweat. Treat them well. They deserve it.

Favorite Thanksgiving Memeory

 This is the month that evokes food memories. it could be the gently spicy taste of pumpkin pie or the heavenly smell of roast turkey. We're all like Proust and his madeleines when it comes to Thanksgiving.

Here's the question of the week - what is your favorite food memory of the holiday?

Turkey On The Go

 Turkey on Thanksgiving can be troublesome. It's a big ,unweidly bird that rquires a lot of care and attention, Now imagine making that bird a to go one. It cna be daunting unless you have the right guide. Thanksfully there is  one.

regular contributor Melissa Clark wrote about this in yesterday's New York Times Food section.Most make ahead recipes call for roasting a whole turkey, letting it cool and then cutting it into pieces before chilling.This is a convenint method because the meat is already carved. However it also intensifies the usual problems of roasting a whole bird. The dark meat will remain moist while the breast dries out. Even if the first roasting goes well, the second roasting will surely dry out the meat. You could always just rehreat it with  gravy or broth, but them you wind up with tough ,soggy meat and even worse,limp and slippery skin. Some home chefs cut up the pieces and then roast it. Theorectically this does work, but as Ms. Calrk found out from the reheating it still leaves you with tough  breast meat.The legs and other parts will be fine however, perfect for those who like them. The ones who want white meat are in for a disappointment.

What to do? Ms. Clark recommneds her favorite method,  - spatchcocking. This is simply butterflying the body by cutting along the backbone and snipping the joints so that it lies flat on a pan. Your buther can do it expertly for you if you;re having qualms about doing it. A plus of this is that spatchcocked birds cook faster, in half the time fo a traditional roast. Just reheat as is  without any added liquid to the roasting pan. The skin and fat protect the breast, preserving its; juiciness,The legs remain just as succulent and juicy as when they were first roasted.It should be reheated for the same amount of time that it took for the first roasting  - forty-five minutes, however lower the oven temp to 350 degrees Farenheit(the bird ahould have originally been cooked at 450 degrees Farenheit). Keep in mind that the turkey does need to rest at least two hours before re-roasting it. You can also line the bottom of the roasting pan with fresh herbs for not only a great taste but to give the kitchen a fantastic aroma.

If the bird has to travel, do it right. It'll make everyone's Thanksgiving easier, safer and more delicious. have the bird ready wheever you and it wind up.