New York City has always embraced the latest trends. From fashion to cars to food, the Big Apple takes a bite out of anything cutting edge. The same is true for sweets. Macarons, the latest import from France, is becoming the darling of society. They are now found everywhere, from the heart of the city to the boroughs.
The sweet Gallic treat was the subject of an article written in yesterday's New York Times Dining section,. in the $25 And Under column by Ligaya Mishan. A few words of clarification first. Macarons are not macaroons ,those drops of coconut that can be cookie or softball sized depending on the baker. Macarons are more delicate, being almond flavor in taste . They are usually filled with some sort of ganache or creme.also come in a variety of colors from Easter egg pastels to psychedelic brights. Ms. Mishan was able to test the best and the worst and came up with eight good macaron bakers in the New York City area. Here are some of them.
The most famous is Laduree on the Upper East Side. Theirs is obviously the best because this is a French patisserie with roots in France. The bakery was founded in 1862 in Paris and is also known for its' cakes and homemade chocolates. It is also credited with creating the macaron sandwich in the early 1900's. Now it creates sighs of pleasure from any enthusiast who bites into the eggshell like crust and chewy center. Another one to visit La Maison du Chocolat, again located on the Upper East Side. This is the perfect one for chocolate lovers.All their macarons are filled with chocolate ganache infused with pistachio, coffee and salted caramel. Other patisseries mentioned are Almondine in the trendy Park Slope section of Brooklyn and Little Oven at Long Island City, right across the East River. I am going to try La Maison du Macaron in Chelsea, a favorite neighborhood of mine. Theirs are supposedly sweeter than the average treat however they offer a variety of flavors including , fig, vanilla, Calvados and champagne.
If you're in Manhattan this holiday season, stop for that latest loved treat, the macaron. Experience a plate of them with strong coffee after a day of holiday shopping or just sight seeing. They are parfait -vraiment - during a crisp fall day in new York City.
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
The Butcher Cometh
Years ago cooks went to specialty stores such as the green grocers, the butchers and even the ice man's to get their food stuffs . The advent of the supermarket changed all that. Butchers along with the rest of the individual food sellers disappeared, The days of not only getting a good chop of meat but friendly advice were gone. Until recently. Like anything retro, butchers are back in in a big way - with plenty of good meats and good suggestions.
This was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Dining section. The piece, written by Dining veteran, Florence Fabricant, tells of the return of the classic butcher shop.This new bunch of meat cutters offer what a supermarket can not - variety and help. An old fashioned shop can sell such rare finds as trotters , lambs neck and kidneys along with fresh oxtails. Some butchers even offer the more exotic rabbit and goat meats for the more adventurous cook and diner. Even better than the variety is the advice a seasoned butcher can give. He (or she) can tell a customer what to do with the cuts, along with what are the cheaper pieces of meat for those on a budget. Another plus is more free range meat. Veal is not white like the supermarket kind, , but pink thanks to the calves being raised on a more organic diet.
Restaurants are also jumping on this trend. A famed Manhattan eatery, Resto has a butcher shop attached to it , appropriately named Cannibal. After all if ,you like what you had, then you can go next door to get the same cut of meat to make at home. This ideait does make sense and saves cooks time . After all you dont' have to go looking all over your grocery's meat department. Just return to the restaurant and ask for what you had on your last visit. The meat also will be fresher along with being better in taste , texture and quality.
Butchers are making a comeback and no wonder. They hark back to an era when a cut of meat was an individual as a person. It was what good cooking and dining was all about. Luckily for both meat lovers and cooks, it's returning
NOTE: I made a mistake in yesterday's entry. November 1st is All Saint's Day - not All Soul's which is today. My apologies.
This was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Dining section. The piece, written by Dining veteran, Florence Fabricant, tells of the return of the classic butcher shop.This new bunch of meat cutters offer what a supermarket can not - variety and help. An old fashioned shop can sell such rare finds as trotters , lambs neck and kidneys along with fresh oxtails. Some butchers even offer the more exotic rabbit and goat meats for the more adventurous cook and diner. Even better than the variety is the advice a seasoned butcher can give. He (or she) can tell a customer what to do with the cuts, along with what are the cheaper pieces of meat for those on a budget. Another plus is more free range meat. Veal is not white like the supermarket kind, , but pink thanks to the calves being raised on a more organic diet.
Restaurants are also jumping on this trend. A famed Manhattan eatery, Resto has a butcher shop attached to it , appropriately named Cannibal. After all if ,you like what you had, then you can go next door to get the same cut of meat to make at home. This ideait does make sense and saves cooks time . After all you dont' have to go looking all over your grocery's meat department. Just return to the restaurant and ask for what you had on your last visit. The meat also will be fresher along with being better in taste , texture and quality.
Butchers are making a comeback and no wonder. They hark back to an era when a cut of meat was an individual as a person. It was what good cooking and dining was all about. Luckily for both meat lovers and cooks, it's returning
NOTE: I made a mistake in yesterday's entry. November 1st is All Saint's Day - not All Soul's which is today. My apologies.
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Soul Cakes
Today is All Soul's Day , a day reserved for remembering loved ones who have passed. Even though it is a solemn holy day it is celebrated. In Northern England and Scotland it is a day to go souling, or begging for something for those lost loved ones to eat.What is given out on this day? Everything from dried fruit to little cakes or soul cakes.
Begging for soul cakes goes back centuries. It's actually a precursor of Halloween when the poor or especially children would go knocking door to door, looking for something to eat. They were given these cakes and upon eating them say prayers for the giver's departed family. According to belief the souls would then be instantly released from Purgatory. They were also called harcakes in Lancashire and some other sections of Darbyshire . The Mexicans have something similar called Ppan de Muerto or bread of the dead. These are sweet buns that have bone decorations on them,. Usually a tear shaped piece such as an almond is also added to represent sadness. Soul cakes were also popularized in the song by the same name , first by Peter, Paul and Mary and most recently by Sting on his 2009 CD If On A Winter's Night .
There are recipes for these solemn treats. They're in the same family as a scone and have added dried fruits to them, along with allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg. Usually there are currants which are also put in the shape of across on top. There is also another recipe , redolent with saffron and egg yolk to give a yellowish cast. This could represent the dying autumn sun or the bonfires of the ancient Samhain or All Hallow's Eve when they were first made before Christianity hit Britain's shores. Soul cakes are made basically the same way as biscuits,kneaded lightly , cut out with a cookie cutter and then baked for only fifteen minutes until golden. Freshly baked soul cakes are served with wine as well according to tradition.
Soul cakes are an ancient and interesting way of celebrating loved ones who have passed. They represent Celtic ways and customs but also the solemnity of the passing of life and the seasons.
Bake them during these next few days as a sign of remembrance.
Begging for soul cakes goes back centuries. It's actually a precursor of Halloween when the poor or especially children would go knocking door to door, looking for something to eat. They were given these cakes and upon eating them say prayers for the giver's departed family. According to belief the souls would then be instantly released from Purgatory. They were also called harcakes in Lancashire and some other sections of Darbyshire . The Mexicans have something similar called Ppan de Muerto or bread of the dead. These are sweet buns that have bone decorations on them,. Usually a tear shaped piece such as an almond is also added to represent sadness. Soul cakes were also popularized in the song by the same name , first by Peter, Paul and Mary and most recently by Sting on his 2009 CD If On A Winter's Night .
There are recipes for these solemn treats. They're in the same family as a scone and have added dried fruits to them, along with allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg. Usually there are currants which are also put in the shape of across on top. There is also another recipe , redolent with saffron and egg yolk to give a yellowish cast. This could represent the dying autumn sun or the bonfires of the ancient Samhain or All Hallow's Eve when they were first made before Christianity hit Britain's shores. Soul cakes are made basically the same way as biscuits,kneaded lightly , cut out with a cookie cutter and then baked for only fifteen minutes until golden. Freshly baked soul cakes are served with wine as well according to tradition.
Soul cakes are an ancient and interesting way of celebrating loved ones who have passed. They represent Celtic ways and customs but also the solemnity of the passing of life and the seasons.
Bake them during these next few days as a sign of remembrance.
Monday, October 31, 2011
Halloween Faves
Halloween brings back all sorts of ghosts- good and bad. The best is candy. We all have memories of our faves - whether they're the classic or commercial type.Even as adults we manage to sneak in a few treats today, just to satisfy our inner child. Besides there's nothing as fun as having a few candy corns or a peanut butter cup as dessert.
The idea of giving out candy for Halloween is relatively recent starting in the late 1930's. Previously homemade treats, such as popcorn balls and candy apples, were given out to trick or treats to prevent them from doing damage to homes and properties. The candy companies jumped on this idea and soon people were giving out Mars Bars and candy kisses. World War II interrupted the holiday however it became popular again in the late Forties. Not only candy was given out back then but also small toys, nickels and cookies. Halloween was also now a national holiday with every home in the US giving out treats. It was a boon to the candy industry who previously had a lull in sales right before Christmas.
The baby boomers took the holiday to a high art. This is when all sorts of faves were introduced, from candy cigarettes to Raisinettes. Some homes even gave out the rare treat of wax lips or wax whistles along with pixie sticks. Now trick or treaters get an entire cornucopia of goodies thanks to many companies producing bags with three different types of candy bars.My favorites were always the candy cigarettes along with Smarties. Peanut butter cups were also good as were - and still are mini Hershey bars. Of course candy corn is a fun nibble too, whether it's the original or the chocolate flavored Indian corn.
Everyone has a favorite Halloween candy. They're like what madeleines were to Proust. One bite brings back a flood of good trick or treating memories.
The idea of giving out candy for Halloween is relatively recent starting in the late 1930's. Previously homemade treats, such as popcorn balls and candy apples, were given out to trick or treats to prevent them from doing damage to homes and properties. The candy companies jumped on this idea and soon people were giving out Mars Bars and candy kisses. World War II interrupted the holiday however it became popular again in the late Forties. Not only candy was given out back then but also small toys, nickels and cookies. Halloween was also now a national holiday with every home in the US giving out treats. It was a boon to the candy industry who previously had a lull in sales right before Christmas.
The baby boomers took the holiday to a high art. This is when all sorts of faves were introduced, from candy cigarettes to Raisinettes. Some homes even gave out the rare treat of wax lips or wax whistles along with pixie sticks. Now trick or treaters get an entire cornucopia of goodies thanks to many companies producing bags with three different types of candy bars.My favorites were always the candy cigarettes along with Smarties. Peanut butter cups were also good as were - and still are mini Hershey bars. Of course candy corn is a fun nibble too, whether it's the original or the chocolate flavored Indian corn.
Everyone has a favorite Halloween candy. They're like what madeleines were to Proust. One bite brings back a flood of good trick or treating memories.
Saturday, October 29, 2011
Halloween Plan B
If you're along the Eastern Coast of the US right now, you're probably having worrying doubts about Halloween. Weekend costume parties right now are being cancelled thanks to this freak ealry season blizzard we're having. Moms are nervously looking towards Monday and wondering what to do with all those cupcakes and treats they've just baked for their little one's school parties.What to do? Have Plan B firmly in place.
Every holiday should have a backup plan just in case the first one gets screwed up. After all anything could happen on any holiday whether it be a bad thunderstorm on July 4th or a monster blizzard on Christmas Day. When the weather is frightful - such as today's rare Nor'Easter , it pays not to panic. After all food can still be eaten. Drinks can still be drunk. As far as those hors d' oeuvres you planned on serving rethink them as a fun dinner for the kids Little ones love the idea of stuffing themselves with pigs in blankets or veggies and dip. If you bought heroes, then cut them up and use them the next day for lunch or dinner. You can also use them on Monday for the lunch box or brown bag.
Another alternative for any postponed party is freezing your feasts. Roasts can be cut up and put into trays. Add some gravy and sides too and voila and instant dinner party. Lasagna along with other casserole dishes are also pretty easy to freeze. Just remember to add extra salt because it weakens in flavored upon being frozen. Also keep toppings separate too. If you had make a baked mac, then hold off on sprinkling the breadcrumbs on top. Reserve those for when you reheat the dish .Cakes and cupcakes can also be frozen and then thawed out.Wrap them in several layers of plastic wrap before placing them in your freezer. Don't freeze pies of any kind! Freezing will create too much moisture that will ruin both the taste and texture when thawing. Leave pies and even tarts to be eaten right away and just get new ones for your rescheduled gathering.
Yes it's scary to have to cancel a party whethe r it be a big Halloween one or just a small birthday get together. The key is don't panic. Fall back on a plan B that will ensure you still have great food and a good time even without guests.
Every holiday should have a backup plan just in case the first one gets screwed up. After all anything could happen on any holiday whether it be a bad thunderstorm on July 4th or a monster blizzard on Christmas Day. When the weather is frightful - such as today's rare Nor'Easter , it pays not to panic. After all food can still be eaten. Drinks can still be drunk. As far as those hors d' oeuvres you planned on serving rethink them as a fun dinner for the kids Little ones love the idea of stuffing themselves with pigs in blankets or veggies and dip. If you bought heroes, then cut them up and use them the next day for lunch or dinner. You can also use them on Monday for the lunch box or brown bag.
Another alternative for any postponed party is freezing your feasts. Roasts can be cut up and put into trays. Add some gravy and sides too and voila and instant dinner party. Lasagna along with other casserole dishes are also pretty easy to freeze. Just remember to add extra salt because it weakens in flavored upon being frozen. Also keep toppings separate too. If you had make a baked mac, then hold off on sprinkling the breadcrumbs on top. Reserve those for when you reheat the dish .Cakes and cupcakes can also be frozen and then thawed out.Wrap them in several layers of plastic wrap before placing them in your freezer. Don't freeze pies of any kind! Freezing will create too much moisture that will ruin both the taste and texture when thawing. Leave pies and even tarts to be eaten right away and just get new ones for your rescheduled gathering.
Yes it's scary to have to cancel a party whethe r it be a big Halloween one or just a small birthday get together. The key is don't panic. Fall back on a plan B that will ensure you still have great food and a good time even without guests.
Friday, October 28, 2011
Time For Fennel
Even though it's autumn you can still make a nice salad. Instead of the usual summery greens, though try fennel. It's big this time of year and makes a wonderful side whether if it's on its' own or with other veggies. Another plus is that it has a distinctive refreshing taste -a perfect foil against heavy main dishes.
Fennel is a bulb like plant usually grown in the early spring , namely June and July. However it's also big around the fall and many Italian homes have a fennel dish at Thanksgiving. It's name is derived from the Latin foeniculum. It's a hardy perennial being an actual herb as opposed to a green .It's been used from India to England where it was included in the pagan Anglo Saxon Tenth Century Nine Herbs Charm, an early medical manuscript. The Greeks called it marathon and it figured prominently in the famed Batttle of Marathon in 490 BC.Fennel has been used to treat everything from modern day hypertension to past century cures for digestive disorders and blood problems.
Fennel itself has a distinctive taste- not unlike anise (which it is often mistaken for). The Times had some lovely salad recipes th e other days for it.These included one with radishes and mushrooms. However a more popular one is a plain fennel salad (which was popularized by the late 60 Minutes journalist Ed Bradley). His recipe includes just cutting up an entire bulb and them dousing it a simple red wine vinegar vinaigrette. This is delicious even when it's a few days old. The fennel is great at absorbing the dressing which leave a tart, fruity aftertaste. Another way of serving it is just cutting up the bulb and stalks and dipping them into a simple oil and vinegar mix. Italians have been doing this for years and fresh fennel is always a big part of Sunday and holiday dinners.
Surprisingly this Spring specialty is a big part of fall dining. make a fennel salad for a refreshing alternative to regular salads. It's like a breath of crisp autumn air!
Fennel is a bulb like plant usually grown in the early spring , namely June and July. However it's also big around the fall and many Italian homes have a fennel dish at Thanksgiving. It's name is derived from the Latin foeniculum. It's a hardy perennial being an actual herb as opposed to a green .It's been used from India to England where it was included in the pagan Anglo Saxon Tenth Century Nine Herbs Charm, an early medical manuscript. The Greeks called it marathon and it figured prominently in the famed Batttle of Marathon in 490 BC.Fennel has been used to treat everything from modern day hypertension to past century cures for digestive disorders and blood problems.
Fennel itself has a distinctive taste- not unlike anise (which it is often mistaken for). The Times had some lovely salad recipes th e other days for it.These included one with radishes and mushrooms. However a more popular one is a plain fennel salad (which was popularized by the late 60 Minutes journalist Ed Bradley). His recipe includes just cutting up an entire bulb and them dousing it a simple red wine vinegar vinaigrette. This is delicious even when it's a few days old. The fennel is great at absorbing the dressing which leave a tart, fruity aftertaste. Another way of serving it is just cutting up the bulb and stalks and dipping them into a simple oil and vinegar mix. Italians have been doing this for years and fresh fennel is always a big part of Sunday and holiday dinners.
Surprisingly this Spring specialty is a big part of fall dining. make a fennel salad for a refreshing alternative to regular salads. It's like a breath of crisp autumn air!
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Mozzarella Time
Mozzarella is one of those cheese you either love or hate. Unfortunately it's always had a bad rap thanks to it being a vital, if greasy part of pizza. Yet the true Italian style version of this cheese can be heavenly . Its' taste and texture is what creates new mozzarella lovers every day. One bite of the real thing and you're hooked.
True mozzarella is the subject of a brand new book called The Mozza Cookbook, written by a true California girl, chef, Nancy Silverton. She is also the owner along with another great chef, Mario Batali of Los Angeles' most popular restaurants, Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza. Yesterday's New York Times Dining section had an article featuring her in its' Feed Me column, written by Alex Wichtel. Ms, Silverman is something of a pioneer out west. She championed artisanal breads in a town not known for embracing anything yeasty or high in calories. She now is behind promoting mozzarella in its' truest form. Some of the book does feature pizza recipes but there are other ones, equally mouth watering highlighting the cheese.
Ms. Silverton is not only big on mozzarella but also burrata a type of mozzarella. Burrata basically translates into buttered an dis called such because it is a mix of hard cheese and soft cream. The exterior has a hard shell while the inside is soft and runny. The chef puts it as a topping to amazing sandwiches that also have caramelized shallots and sauteed escarole. In these she also adds hunks of smoked bacon , and then tops it with creamy blobs of mozzarella. It's a different and more true to form spin on this cheese,it is used as a topping but in a different way.
True mozzarella is heavenly. Buy Ms. Silverton's book, The Mozza Cookbook to discover it and what you can do with it. It'll be a far cry from just your typical pizza topping.
True mozzarella is the subject of a brand new book called The Mozza Cookbook, written by a true California girl, chef, Nancy Silverton. She is also the owner along with another great chef, Mario Batali of Los Angeles' most popular restaurants, Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza. Yesterday's New York Times Dining section had an article featuring her in its' Feed Me column, written by Alex Wichtel. Ms, Silverman is something of a pioneer out west. She championed artisanal breads in a town not known for embracing anything yeasty or high in calories. She now is behind promoting mozzarella in its' truest form. Some of the book does feature pizza recipes but there are other ones, equally mouth watering highlighting the cheese.
Ms. Silverton is not only big on mozzarella but also burrata a type of mozzarella. Burrata basically translates into buttered an dis called such because it is a mix of hard cheese and soft cream. The exterior has a hard shell while the inside is soft and runny. The chef puts it as a topping to amazing sandwiches that also have caramelized shallots and sauteed escarole. In these she also adds hunks of smoked bacon , and then tops it with creamy blobs of mozzarella. It's a different and more true to form spin on this cheese,it is used as a topping but in a different way.
True mozzarella is heavenly. Buy Ms. Silverton's book, The Mozza Cookbook to discover it and what you can do with it. It'll be a far cry from just your typical pizza topping.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
