A Tomato Test

A can of tomatoes is our kitchen's best friend right now. It can be used for sauces, stews and soups during our duration inside. Which is the best as far as taste and texture? Let the experts tell you.

Sara Bonisteel a senior editor  and food writer at the Times, asked the same questions and gives us answers in yesterday's  Food section. Anything canned is your kitchen's best friend right now. There was a tasting long before the pandemic happened. Writers from the the papers' NYT Cooking section and its' subsidiary had an extensive taste test. Michael Sullivan , a kitchen writer at Wirecutter chose a dozen canned brands to sample. Keep in mind that even though these can usually be found at groceries and big box stores, now there are more shortages. Mr. Sullivan developed a ranking system that is based on color, flavor, sweetness, acidity, overall appearance and texture. They were first sampled raw from the can and as part of the famed chef Marcella Hazan's famously simple four ingredient sauce. Many cooks have prized the San Marzano kind grown in Italy as the ideal. There was only one kind with this, Most were San Marzano's grown in Italy. The panel included Mr. Sullivan, Ms. Bonisteel,Alexa Weibel, a recipe editor at NYT Cooking, Ligaya Mishan, the Hungry City columnist. Other panelists were from Wirecutter's Marguerite Preston, Marilyn Ong and Winnie Yang.

Which were the best? Surprisingly Target's Market Pantry made the best. Tasters found the taste to be pleasing with Ms. Weibel describing the flavor as "forward, bright and fresh". The two others were Bianco DiNapoli Organic Whole Peeled. It's the most balanced tomato as far as sweetness and acidity.Add basil and it's the best brand for any Italian recipe.Another top brand is San Merican SMT Whole Peeled. According to Ligaya Mishan the tomatoes were pleasantly firm without too much bite.  Then there were the Better Than Average. These were Cento Certified Peeled Tomatoes and Hunt's Whole Plum Tomatoes. The first had a delicate texture and the tasters found that the liquid, more than the solids had a more tomato-y taste. The second had a nice balance of sweetness and acidity. The brands that were voted just average were  Whole Foods 365 Organic Peeled Tomatoes and Rega Rega San Marzano Tomatoes. The least surprised me because one I use a lot and recommend was panned. This was Muir Glen Organic Whole Peeled Tomatoes. The tasters found the tomatoes overly acidic and sour but I never had that problem with them. Other least favorites were Organico Bello Whole Peeled Tomatoes, Bella Terra Organic Whole Tomatoes and Contadina Whole Roma Tomatoes With Basil,  the last especially not good to extra panelist Julia Moskin.

These tomatoes represent the best and the least favorites of the panelists. It may be different for others, depending on their tastes. Try them and see. Any can of tomato sauce is worth testing these days.

Know Your Tofu

To any non vegan tofu is tofu. It's that icly soy stuff that serves as a stand in to real meat and dairy. Yet , there are several different and delicious kinds that can turn a limited meatless diet into an unlimited buffet.  It's amazing what it can do  - and mimic.

First of all what is tofu? The most basic description is that it's a curd made from soy.Many have been introduced to it years ago under the unappetizing name of bean curd . It has been around for two thousand years, first being made during the Han Dynasty in China. The name tofu means fermented  or bean. It's made from coagulating soy milk with magnesium chloride and pressing out the curds.The amount of time in pressing determines what kind of curd it is.The process can be over in about fifteen to twenty minutes. Just remember that the longer it's pressed the firmer it will be. There are various types.Block tofu is what's found at grocery stores. This is also called "cotton tofu" due to the fluffiness of the curds. Soft tofu is the kind that's pressed in the least amount of time. It's primarily used for desserts.It's not recommended for frying because it could break apart and splutter out of the pan.Medium firm tofu is the best for braising and boiling.  Don't stir fry or pan fry it. It will break apart in creamy little pieces. The most versatile is the firm block kind. It can be battered, boiled , baked, pan fried, stir fried and deep fried.If you want a crusty , crispy kind, then go for the extra firm. These can be turned in kabobs or General's Tso's tofu.

Tofu can also have a soft and silky mouth feel. This is silken tofu and it, too, is a popular, kind, often found at many supermarkets.It's made in a similar process to block tofu except that the soy milk is coagulated without curdling the milk. It's also left unpressed so every cake retains its' moisture while cooling. Because curds never form, any kind from  soft , to extra firm has a smooth and silky appearance  If you want to make sauces and dressings, then try soft silken.It has the consistency of a poached egg.It can even be used as an egg substitute. There is firm silken tofu which cannot be confused with the  firm or silken kinds. Firm silken is made from a thicker form of soy milk. One of the most delicate kinds is fresh silken or custard tofu.It can turn pretty quickly so try getting it fresh from the manufacturer. Don/'t buy the mass produced ones. The flavor can be flat and bitter. It can't be cooked but it can be served with miso and scallions for a savory treat or mixed with agave syrup for a sweet snack. for those who love spicy , there is the Chinese Five Spice tofu which is a  dark purple in color. Smoked tofu is another tasty dish. It's smoked first in tea leaves giving it a light hue and smoky flavor. There is also deep fried tofu called aburaage  that's puffy and sugary.Tofu can be sold in pockets  or inarizushi. Both can be used for snacking while the last is good in salads.

Don't be put off by this versatile soy product. Tofu can be made into everything, from dinner to dessert. start cooking with  this versatile ingredient now.

The Bass Are Running

It's April and the striped bass are running. That means dozens of fishermen all braving the April weather and cold water to catch the fish . However you can also get hybrid striped bass at your local grocery or fish store. It can make for some interesting dishes, from the delicate to the hearty. Striped bass or striper as it;s known by fishermen, is part of the Morondirae family and is usually found in bordering fresh water/salt water areas such as th e Raritan bay in New Jersey the Carolinas, New England and Maryland. Domesticated bass is an offshoot being a hybrid fo both the wild and white bass. The two varieties were first combined in the 1960s in South Carolina for a better meat. Hybrid bass has a delicate somewhat sweet flavor, ,and firm flaky flesh . Sometimes there is a "muddy"taste however the best way to avoid this is by cutting the fish into filets(or having your fish store do it for you) Bass is good a variety of ways. You can char it or blacken it for a Cajun dish , which would go well with dirty rice.You can also grill it and served it on a bed of also grilled veggies. Another recipe is Greek style with a honey and saffron glaze. Bass cheeks , those round fleshy discs on a fish's head are also a treat. Broiled and served with butter, they resemble sea scallops in texture. Most people would prefer just to have their bass in a delicate white wine sauce with green beans and new potatoes. This is a lovely, elegant way to serve it , especially at a dinner party. April is here and the bass are running. Run down to your local fish market or grocery store and pick up this versatile fish . Take advantage of the season with some interesting dishes ranging from hearty to elegant!