On The Rocks A Delicious Memoir

 Can a former postman make it as a top restauranteur? If you're Joseph Constanzo Junior , the answer is a a resounding YES! This culinary force fo nature took over an average Italian restaurant and turned it into one of Pitssburgh's premier dining spots.His recipe for that? Grit and personailty.

His story is in a new book On The Rocks (Koehler Books 2023) written in his voice by his eldest daughter Maria Costanzo Palmer and Ruthie Robbins, Ms Constanzo Palmer's English teacher and good friend. This is a story of personality and good food. It starts with Joe being offered Fusco's an Italian restaurant and favorite place of hos and his  wife Donna. Joe, ,disilluisioned  with his job at the USPS jumps on the chance to own an Italian restaurant and bar, despite it being in one of the worst areas of Puttsburgh, a gritty,  scary area known as McKee's Rocks (hence the book's title). The odds were against him. who would want to visit an eatery in on fo the worst parts of the Pittsburgh area? Thanks to his warm personality and amazing food - especially his fried zucchini - The Prima donna - named after Donna became the place to go. Celebrities from both the sports and movie world ate there, sampling his array of tasty pastas and meat dishes. Even Frank Sinatra ordered from him.  Joe was also ambitious , running and unfortunately losing the Allegheny County commissioner's position.He also had a rasio show, interviewing other  local restaurant ownersThere is a down side to this  - as Joe is investigated for tax fraud and does time in a West Virginia federal penitentiary , This means the end of the Prima Donna.It has to be sold and unfortunately the new owners jsut don't have the magic Joe was blessed with. after being released there is a stab at another eatery the Cafe Costanzo but it didn't do as well. 

I loved this book. Joe remnds me of many of the many affable men I've met over the years. He has a great heart ,a constantly giving one . Even was he was a mailman , he had time to play basketball with the inner city kids on hos route. He was a good friend and mentor to his restaurant staff and a sympathetic ear and companion to his prison mates. This is a rare kind of person who always sees the good in any situation, even in jail. I admire that attitude. Joe had also an admirable drive. One has to be in awe of how he pushed the locally famous Mike Kalina to give the Prima Donna a five fork rating along with doggedly pursuing the critic to come in and try the food. That actually was the start of a deep friendship, endling tragically when Mr. Kalina took his life in the early Nineties. The incindent was also in the book,  as Joe told of him selling space in Mr. Kalina's cookbook. What has to follow On The Rocks is a Prima Donna cookbook. Home chefs like myself want to make that fried zucchini (this book made me crave it and pasta) along with his famed salad dressing which he sold locally. There is a need for a cookbook featuring good old fashioned  Italian cooking and I think the Costanzo family should consider this.

On The Rocks  tells of Joe Costanzo Jr's dream coming true. He turned a little Italian restaurant into one of western Pennsylvania award winning power houses. It's a fascinating story. 

The Savory Allure of Pittsburgh

Pittsburgh is known for many things, Steel, bridges, Universities. Food isn't one of them. Yet in the few years this famed city may well become the Lyons of America. It is the hottest and most popular destination for foodies right now,surpassing even Manhattan for good restaurants.

Jeff Gordonier wrote about it in today's New York Times Food section. He visited the city known for Carnegie Steel and Carnegie Mellon University.The vibe of the city is changing. There are still marginalized areas however the town on the whole is on the upswing. Companies like Google, Uber and Facebook have relocated there, trying to scoop up  the latest tech grads from the city's major universities such as Carnegie Mellon Duquesne and a slew of several others. Another reason is that
 real estate is very cheap.Old storefronts  are now being turned into trendy eateries thanks to  chefs who can afford to  buy the property.It also helps to have good press. Zagat named Pittsburgh the number one food city in the country while Vogue proclaimed it a happening place to visit, even stating that New Yorkers are toying with the idea of moving there.. For chefs, though, there was
still  the problem of crime. Justin Severino who started Cure in the Lawrenceville section had to deal with prostitutes drug dealers and thieves. He stuck in there, though now  offering a trendy menu that has a tasting menu and salumi dishes.

Other chefs are following his lead, despite the fact that some  fo the older townspeople find the new dishes not to their liking or too foreign. Still ,many are adaptable enjoying  dishes  as wild boar and rabbit at eateries such as  Piccolo Forno, thanks to the culinary deftness of chef Dominic Branduzzi.Then there is a new concept, created by two young entrepreneurs, Ben Marica and Tyler Benson. These former Navy men have brought a kind of tech incubator to Pittsburgh's food scene. Their Smallman Galley consists of four kiosks in which different chefs showcase their their cooking for eighteen months. The neat part is the chefs pay absolutely no rent, The goal is to acquire a following and then go from there with it .. The creators see this as a way of catering to the young techies from Google and Uber who are also living in the area.It is a great symbiotic relationship guaranteed to boost Pittsburgh's standing and economy. However there are some chefs who have seen this happen before, namely in Brooklyn and San Francisco. The more popular a neighborhood gets, the more expensive it will be Rents rise , people move out , businesses either struggle or close.Others say give it five years and then see if Puttsburgh is still thriving according to Chef Severino of Cure.

Right now Pittsburgh is experiencing an explosion of good chefs and good restaurants, It's shedding its' old grey steel town image for a newer, more vibrant one,Will it be the Lyons of the New World? Quite possibly yes!