Showing posts with label Jeff Gordinier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jeff Gordinier. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Vegan Is Hip

What are your favorite Hollywood celebrities eating these days. Odds are it isn't meat. It seems that both  SoCal or Southern Californian people and restaurants are not that into any food that had a heart beat.It's all about healthy and compassionate eating which is better.

Veganism in La La Land is the subject of an article in today's New York Times Dining section. The piece written by Dining regular , Jeff Gordinier, tells about how many of Los Angeles' trendy restaurants are simply eschewing meats. It makes sense for the area, considering it is chock full of diet conscious movie and TV stars.An all veggie based diet with no dairy is a slimming one - perfect for those Hollywood types who have to watch their weight. It is a healthy one too, as many celebs are finding out. Eat vegan and lower the risk of heart disease and cancer along with just generally feeling better.

LA Chefs are getting just as   creative as their New York counterparts. One , whipped up a vegan chicken parm for talk show host , Ellen DeGeneres. Chef Craig Susser of the famed Dan Tana's  complied with a Gardein patty, a soy based sub. Another chef , Quinn Hatfield of the restaurants that bears his names has come up with a parsnip bacon.which is just thinly sliced baked parsnip strips coated in olive oil and sea salt. These chefs are challenged because a strictly vegan menu has absolutely no meat or dairy. It can be hard to create creamy sauces and rich flavors without the usual butter, cream and cheese. Yet they manage and have gotten quite a following.

LA may be the hub of the entertainment world however it;s also becoming the hub of the celebrity vegan world as well. Go to any restaurant and discover good for you meals with plant based ingredients. You may also see a few of your favorite celebs chowing down as well.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Rock Stars And Rocking Food

Usually concerts were not known for their food. It was probably the arena stuff, hot pretzels and watered down soda at exorbitant prices. Outdoor concerts were even worse. Over grilled hamburgers, and greased corn dogs. That's all changing.The food is now the star and it shines - brightly.

This was the subject of an article in yesterday's New York Times Dining section. The article, written by Dining regular Jeff Gordinier, tells of actual gourmet delights that outshine the star attraction.Also concert promoters know that most music fans are also diehard foodies and they're advertising star chefs like the famed Marcus Samuelssen, April Bloomfield and Tom Collichio., If a restaurant is participating, it too becomes the main draw. Musicians and singers also release that sometimes they're secondary. After all, as Darrell Hall of Hall and Oates fame reasons, eating and music are one of one of a logical blend. Food and music have been together since our early days of sitting around the communal fire.

What kinds of foods are rocking these concerts? There are some spectacular dishes, that's for sure.At the Googamooga concert series stands feature  dirty duck dogs, hot dogs with a gourmet blend of duck meat and spices. Do or Dine has a fois gras doughnut which is a jelly doughnut with a savory snap of goose liver.vVinegar Hill House offers the more traditional soft shell crab on a potato roll. Thr Grub Crawl is offering the native food of Los Angeles, Brooklyn and New Orleans. Even the outre Lollapalooza festival is offering the high class truffle oil popcorn and lobster corn dogs for their dinign fare..

Rock concerts are being upstaged by chefs and their creations.It's no longer who had the best guitar riff but who made the best fois gras doughnut. Food, not  music, shines bright at these concerts.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Revamping A Classic Restaurant

Can anyone improve on a classic restaurant? Can a classic be revamped to fit the current times? Those are the questions facing the famed Clinton years Maloney and Porcelli. With any luck it can and appeal to its' faithful and its' new clientele.

The restaurant's comeback was the main feature in yesterday's New York Times Dining section.Dining section regular Jeff Gordinier wrote about Maloney and Porcelli's return to the world of Manhattan eateries.Its' owners are creating a new persona for the restaurant, This includes everything from new lighting to music, It is keeping its' signature dishes  , fried herb versions of Tater Tots to a roaming martini cart.

The restaurant, famed during the last two decades is also famous for its' tableside cooking.The chef makes the fame Bronson Pinchot (yes, it's probably named for that actor who played Balki in the sitcom Perfect Strangers).It's a revved up steak au poivre dish .It's not only cooking but also entertainment for the diners. Of course Maloney and Porcelli will bring back its' classic dish of  crunchy pork shank. This was a dream to behold and taste. It is a crispy ,crackly  and gigantic enough to make it one of the restaurant's best loved dishes.

Maloeny and Porcelli  will probably delight its old customers and fans.Its' approach to cooking is novel enough and entertaining. Not only that- it is revamped.That alone will bring in the curious.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

The Return Of Classic French Fare

 Before dishes became trendy, they were considered elegant. Their ingredients weren't the flavor of the month.They were time honored and tested. This is true with French fare. Many foodies and gourmets have forgotten that this type of cuisine was the gold standard of all cooking whether it was prepared at home or in a restaurant.

This was the subject of Jeff Gordinier's article in today's New York Times Dining section. He discovers the classic Gallic dish, Tournados Roussini ,a dish that has been missing from most  menus for quite some time, The tournados are tender filet mignons topped with a small slice of foie gras . They are served on buttered rounds and then anointed with a sauce of veal broth , truffle juice and Madeira. The dish was created during the Golden Era of French cuisine by either the culinary giants, Marie-Antoine Careme or Auguste Escoffier. It is a rich dish that was pure heaven to Mr.Gordinier.

Sadly enough only a few French restaurants offer this dish named after the opera composer, Gioachino Rossini. The famed Manhattan Le Bernardin as well as Benoit restaurant in New York City offer Tournados Roussini only during the Christmas holidays. The trendier, Le Sirene in the West Village makes them on a regular basis. The famed modern French chef,Daniel Boulud bases his to die for burgers on them. Hopefully these lush treats  will be back on more menus, despite the price (even for lunch they're around $55.00).

Tournadoes Roussini are a throwback to a more elegant time in dining. Hopefully modern foodies and gourmets will want this amazing dish back in their lives. As with all good dishes, it transcends time and trends.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Sassy Drinks

The New York Times Dining section yesterday ran their annual spirits issue. This was and is the perfect guide to holiday cocktails and gift giving. One article featured different cocktails and another featured some very sassy wine labels. All in all it made for some fun reading.


I liked the article about the nontraditional and unorthodox wine labels.William Grimes wrote this fun piece that featured brands such as Bitch and Fat Bastard - perfect for friends - however not for your boss.The taste is the same for any wine. There are shirazes and Cabernets which are lovely additions to any holiday table.These also make good presents between office mates too. Just don't get Big Ass Wine (which sounds like a Letterman joke) for anyone who's weight sensitive.it is a robust red but stick with the reds with the more genteel names.


Another fun article was the one about home cocktails. This is Jeff Godinier's take on creating the perfect cocktail no matter what the cost. His comic zeal in making a heavenly drink takes him to all sorts of liquor stores , wracking up $135 dollars to create the Mount Vernon, This is a drink that features a mix of cherry liqueurs such as Cherry Heering and Kirschwasser. The ingredients are expensive and the recipe made for more advanced mixologists. However it seems worth it. Mr. Gordinier did create his ambrosia.


The holidays are meant for merry drinks and The New York Times knows this. It's a time to have fun with holiday spirits. Make your own or buy some with sassy labels.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

The Age Of Cheese

Age is everything when it comes to cheese. Time is what gives cheese its' flavor. It can also make or break a good wheel, turning into a dream or a nightmare.The ripening process is just as important to cheese as any other. However it is this process that's causing a price war among cheese makers.

This was the topic of Jeff Gordinier's article in today's New York Times Dining section. The process , also called affinage is the art of maturing or ripening cheese. This is done in a variety of ways, from being brushed to help the rind breathe properly to being flipped to evenly distribute the minerals. Sometimes affinage calls for the process of bathing in wine or brandy.Without it comes trouble. Cheddar can produce a sulphuric rotten egg smell if it's not aged accordingly. If there's too much humidity, then the rind can be overly thick.

There is another problem with affinage. Over pricing. It seems the longer a cheese ages the more expensive it will be on the market. some feel that a fancier approach to affinage is nothing more than a gimmick. Cheese can be ripened in a simple walk in freezer as opposed to the on site 'caves' that some cheesemakers have built. This last could just be simple cave like caverns in the basement of a fromagerie. Some such as Wisconsin cheese makers Mary and David Falk, have created their own warren in the Dairy State's hills. According to them this vastly improves the flavor. Water from artesian wells has trickled over it alogn with fresh country air wafting in. Others such as brothers Mateo and Andy Kehler have created "rent a cave" areas in Vermont, for local dairies to process homemade cheeses. Of course this means higher pricing for these cheeses. The question is are we paying for the taste or th e money that went into creating the perfect affinage environment.

All in all, a good cheese is one that has been fully ripened and without any blemish. How it's matured really doesn't matter. What matters is that cheese makers don't drive up the price with any unnecessary over the top aging techniques. Thats what will drive cheese lovers away and to the cheaper , less polished brands.

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Healthier Dogs

New York street dogs were always risky.It's not about a stray mutt found wandering the Hudson river docks but those hot dogs sold by street vendors.Either the meat or cooking methods were questionable. Now that's changing.Eating a street dog can be considered a healthy experience thanks to the quality of meat and how it's prepared.

This was the topic of an article in yesterday's New York Times Dining section. The piece , written by Dining regular, Jeff Gordinier, tells about the transformation of these New York classics. Now the meat isn't questionable. Some vendors, like Andrew Mcdonald,, buy totally organic meat. His company Good To Go Organics, specializes in healthy food on the go. Even chili dogs, doubly dubious because of the beef used, is changing.Mr. McDonals uses organic beef bought from farms in upstate Columbia County New York for his chili dogs.

Another change is the way the dogs are being made. Some still are being boiled however a lot of vendors are returning to the outdoor grill method. This was used a century ago but was disbanded because of of the carts going up in flames. Fast forward to a century later when all the carts are made of stainless steel. It's easy now to grill hot dogs and they 're actually tastier, Although many New Yorkers love the water boiled ones and there's now a hot debate regarding which one is better.

New York dogs are vastly improving. They're not only safer to eat but tastier too.They still the perfect city food on the go but now they're even better.