Before dishes became trendy, they were considered elegant. Their ingredients weren't the flavor of the month.They were time honored and tested. This is true with French fare. Many foodies and gourmets have forgotten that this type of cuisine was the gold standard of all cooking whether it was prepared at home or in a restaurant.
This was the subject of Jeff Gordinier's article in today's New York Times Dining section. He discovers the classic Gallic dish, Tournados Roussini ,a dish that has been missing from most menus for quite some time, The tournados are tender filet mignons topped with a small slice of foie gras . They are served on buttered rounds and then anointed with a sauce of veal broth , truffle juice and Madeira. The dish was created during the Golden Era of French cuisine by either the culinary giants, Marie-Antoine Careme or Auguste Escoffier. It is a rich dish that was pure heaven to Mr.Gordinier.
Sadly enough only a few French restaurants offer this dish named after the opera composer, Gioachino Rossini. The famed Manhattan Le Bernardin as well as Benoit restaurant in New York City offer Tournados Roussini only during the Christmas holidays. The trendier, Le Sirene in the West Village makes them on a regular basis. The famed modern French chef,Daniel Boulud bases his to die for burgers on them. Hopefully these lush treats will be back on more menus, despite the price (even for lunch they're around $55.00).
Tournadoes Roussini are a throwback to a more elegant time in dining. Hopefully modern foodies and gourmets will want this amazing dish back in their lives. As with all good dishes, it transcends time and trends.
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
The Return Of Classic French Fare
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