Ancient New Year's Customs To America

 Food and the New year are always entwined.  There are so many customs and legends. Many of our Black American food customs have originated from them and they are a delicious way to ring in a new year.

Kayla Stewart an award winning food writer and part of the Bittman Project, an online food journal write this informative piece in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Every New Year's Black Americans have some combination of green veggies and cow peas, namely collards and Hopping John. Why these foods?The choice of greens, usually cooked with pork for flavor symbolize paper moneys. collards do resemble folded dollars. The peas promise good luck,health and abundance according to Adrian Miller a food scholar and author. Yet African countries never had any food related New Year's customs. This is a messy marriage of using european based ingredients such as collards, a derivation of colewort or a non heading cabbage and African cooking methods, namely a long, low and slow simmer. West Africans did cook black eyed peas but these were for deities who had a fondness for the legume. Geography also played a strong part in the way the dishes are prepared. Lousiana has a surprisingly strong German influence so cabbage instead of collards. Black and Southern traditions became inextricable. The foods were the same. 

There are distinctions though. Amethyst  Ganaway, a Lowcountry chef and writer have noted that people interchange  black eyed peas and rice with Hopping John. . The last is a one pot meal of rice and field peas.It's also lighter , redder and creamier in look and texture than the other.. How people celebrate will factor in, it means sharing good will along with hope  from a marginalized and suppressed sector of society. It,s not just greens and beans either for welcoming another year. Other foods have also been included in the New Year's canon is seafood gumbo. It came from the Carolinas Low Country J.J. Johnson the and owner  chef of New York's Fieldtrip believes his grandmother's philosophy of if you eat good and healthy in the new year, you'll be good and healthy in the new year.Ms. Stewart includes recipes for all these dishes.There is one for collard greens plus cornmeal dumplings which are an easy blend of cornmeal, flour, baking powder and butter. The collards are flavored with green onions and garlic.  There is an easy black eyed pea  recipe made with salt pork or bacon. The gumbo is a bit more elaborate but worth it. You do have to create a gumbo spice mix first. The gumbo is a tasty mix of lobster , crab and scallops.

The traditions are a messy marriage of European and African yet it works. These recipes symbolize hope and happiness for the new year. It speaks to the aspirations in all of us.

Celebrating with Hopping John

Note: This is a milestone for Foodie Pantry.It's our 2,500 blog entry. I can't believe it . It has really changed my life and I have an old friend, Pete Burley and his business partner, Mitch Rappel to thank for this. I was coming up with different ways to promote their new sports drink, Fyxx Caffeinated water and they had suggested a blog. Look back and you will see the first article is about Fyxx. I though that would be it- just one blog entry -  but I got hooked - and hooked and hooked. So onto the 2500th -----

New Year's is a time of tradition and celebration. Food and its' symbolism figures into it  big time. One of the most traditional is hopping John.It is a dish from the Deep South , made with the ingredients of the region.It promises both luck and deliciousness with just one bean.

Kim Severson wrote about this holiday must have in today's New York Times Food section.It is made from the simple cow pea or as we all know it the black eyed pea.It was the great botanist, George Washington Carver who studied them and improved them to create a  stronger , hardier legume.Unfortunately what is sold in the stores is not that.It's a similar looking buff bean  grown in California , and as Ms, Severson puts it "is to the cowpea as iceberg is to lettuce".Get the real kind for your New Year's celebrations, the ones with a history as old as this country's The black eyed pea which is really a bean, originated in west Africa, brought over by enslaved Africans. Luckily the plants are hardy and can take to any soil that they're planted in. They sustained both livestock and people who were too poor to afford other foods.Another plus is that they were kind of like manure in the sense that they put nitrogen into fields, enabling other crops to grow.They also can exist without a lot of water, making ideal in the sometimes drought riddled South. Seeds have been passed down through generations of families, with that comes colorful names like turkey craw, red ripper,washday old timer and whipperwill.

All these varieties surprisingly have different flavors. Crowder peas, so named because they crowd in the pod, are big and meaty so they mix well with rice. if you want a creamy mash  then go with the bright and delicate  cream variety.One rare one with a history, is the Sea Island red pea, first cultivated in the 1600's . It was first cooked into a ruddy gravy in the Carolina rice fields,It  is  also now being revived  as well to go into modern skillets and pots..These peas have different flavors. The pink eye purple hull ones taste like artichokes, and these will probably be the next foodie craze in the New York area. The beans are already hitting our northern markets. What can be made with black eyed peas?||?Ms. Severson give the recipe of purple hull peas with mustard greens in smoky potlikker. This last is  a variation of the phrase pot liquor, the liquid leftover from cooking and is used kind of like a cross between a saute and a gravy.Smoked turkey legs and wings or smoked ham hocks add more flavor along with mustard greens. This is also highly spiced dish, with the addition of chopped garlic and a red hot chili pepper. Bay leaves , allspice and thyme give it an earthy herbal tang  while a tablespoons of sugar tempers the whole recipe.. Ms. Severson serves it with a homemade cornbread, truly Southern with the addition of buttermilk and bacon grease. My recipe is a little simpler. Cook them  in salted water and add butter and  more salt. The beans' starch mixed with the first creating a creamy sauce, perfect with slices of fresh , hot ham or fried chicken,

Have a plate of hopping John to bring you good luck in the New Year. You can try the spicy version or my delicate one. Either way, eat them to enable a money filled 2016

Lucky New Year's Foods

New Year's Eve and Day bring about a cornucopia of culinary traditions.All over the world people eat a variety of different dishes, from cookies to fish for luck. Cakes are baked with coins or prizes that may or may not predict their eater's future in 2015.The luckiest foods are the circular ones .They represent continuity and wealth.

The New York Times Food section highlighted this in their last issue of the old year. David Tanis  covered the classic Hopping John in his A City Kitchen column. The bean dish ,made with black eyed peas is both African and Sephardic based. Sephardic Jews ate them for Rosh Hashana centuries ago and they brought the dish to America. Most Americans know them from the South, first brought to Florida from the Caribbean, I usually like them plain with salt and butter but home chefs can follow Mr. Tanis  recipe. This involves ham hocks and collard greens. The last gives extra luck to the dish because of the green color.You can use hamhocks but you can also use bacon or even a meaty ham. The beans should be soaked overnight in cold water to help them cook faster.(although if you're in a hurry just use the canned , presoaked ones).He also recommends added red pepper flakes but just salt and pepper is fine too, although just omit the salt because the ham will add saltiness too.

To end this meal, think a sweet but healthy cake.Recipe For Health , Martha Rose Schulman, brings a Tuesday Science Times sensibility to the Food section. Her recipe is a yummy walnut apricot bundt cake. it is a golden ring , symbolizing prosperity , and eternity.It is also a promise to eat better, being made with whole wheat flour and sweetened with honey.It is moist and dense without the usual bundt cake's heaviness.Orange flower water can also be added but it's not needed. , walnuts, the perfect superfood are another healthful ingredient along with boiled dried apricots.Eggs, buttermilk and butter are also added to give it richness as is baking soda and baking powder. This is a great cake , not to end a New Year's Eve party but one to start the day . It's is a great breakfast, cake, according to Ms, Schulman, especially if it's  cut in thick slices although wafer thin slices can be cut if you have a lot of guests.

Make healthy , and lucky foods to ring in the New Year. Black eyed peas  is the luckiest and the best for you. Follow up with a healthy  bundt cake, full of goodness and promise.