Champagne and the holidays go hand in hand. A good bubbly adds to any meal or party. The question is what is good?That's what Eric Asimov answers in yesterdays. Wine of The Times column in the New York Times. Follow his advice and you'll select the perfect drink for your gathering.
What Mr. Asimov points out is that champagne is really nothing special. It is just a sparkling wine. Treat it as you would any ordinary dinner white. There are some good ones out there that would not seem out of place accompanying a roast turkey or common hors d'ouevres. he prefers blanc de blanc, the finest and most delicate of all champagnes. These are made solely of chardonnay instead of the usual pinot noir, pinot meunier and the chardonnay. Most of the bubbly tested was at the lower end of the price range, being around $35 to $55 a bottle.
Which ones did Mr. Asimov and his panel recommend? There is the Delamotte coming surprisingly out of Alabama and it has a taste redolent of minerals , herbs and chalk. For a more traditional taste there is Marc Hebrart Blanc du Blanc Premier Cru Brut NV which has a fruity mix of apple, plum and lemon flavors. This would b e perfect with poultry from goose to capon or with a lovely chicken salad appetizer. Another fruity blend is the Ruelle Pertois- Blanc de Blanc Brut , vintage 2005. Again this has a very light green apple flavor to it. Other champagnes had more of a mix of herbal and chalk taste.
Champagne, especially a good one, makes any holiday bubble. Select a blanc de blanc for a special taste . It can go with something as unique as caviar or as homey as a roast.
Thursday, December 22, 2011
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
The Taste Of Christmas Memories
Today's New York Times Dining section was a cornucopia of Christmas memories. This homage in a way to Marcel Proust is full of traditional and not so traditional recipes by the section's best writers. There are so many to choose from savory to sweet. All are tasty and can be easily blended into reader's traditions as well.
Most of the section is written in mini article form followed by a recipe.I like the diversity of it all and the dishes are immensely tryable. There are the savory ones, especially the one by Jeff Gordonier. His contribution is a honey glazed ham which has a spin - white miso. Usually holiday hams are awash in ginger ale and/or pineapple however this one calls for the miso along with apple cider and apple sauce.The apple mixture created a crunchy sweet glaze that counter balances the ham's saltiness.Another great piece is the great Frank Bruni's eggplant and pasta. This is a variation of lasagna that his mother made and it involved crisp fried mezzani along with pasta and sauce. It would be good even at a New Year's party too.
Sweets are also represented and some of the Dining section's have given some great ones. Julia Moskin pitches in with an easy Christmas pudding. This is her take on the traditional British kind that doesn't have the rum but everything else. It's a flavorful dessert rich with spices and candied fruits.It doesn't have the liqueur's cloying taste which is refreshing. Another good recipe is Pete Wells ' candied orange peels which have the added zing of rosemary,Of course the holiday wouldn't be complete without cookies and contributor , Kim Severson adds her mother's ginger snap recipe. These are a break from the usual butter cookie ones and provided much needed spiciness to the holiday sweet platter.
There are several other savory and sweet recipes . Go to the Times online to see more. The ones above and those are great additions to any holiday feast.
Most of the section is written in mini article form followed by a recipe.I like the diversity of it all and the dishes are immensely tryable. There are the savory ones, especially the one by Jeff Gordonier. His contribution is a honey glazed ham which has a spin - white miso. Usually holiday hams are awash in ginger ale and/or pineapple however this one calls for the miso along with apple cider and apple sauce.The apple mixture created a crunchy sweet glaze that counter balances the ham's saltiness.Another great piece is the great Frank Bruni's eggplant and pasta. This is a variation of lasagna that his mother made and it involved crisp fried mezzani along with pasta and sauce. It would be good even at a New Year's party too.
Sweets are also represented and some of the Dining section's have given some great ones. Julia Moskin pitches in with an easy Christmas pudding. This is her take on the traditional British kind that doesn't have the rum but everything else. It's a flavorful dessert rich with spices and candied fruits.It doesn't have the liqueur's cloying taste which is refreshing. Another good recipe is Pete Wells ' candied orange peels which have the added zing of rosemary,Of course the holiday wouldn't be complete without cookies and contributor , Kim Severson adds her mother's ginger snap recipe. These are a break from the usual butter cookie ones and provided much needed spiciness to the holiday sweet platter.
There are several other savory and sweet recipes . Go to the Times online to see more. The ones above and those are great additions to any holiday feast.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Sufganiyot Hanukkah Doughnuts Treats
Tonight is the first night of Hanukkah and it will be celebrated worldwide with songs, gifts and food. Most people associate latkes or potato pancakes with this ancient holiday however there is another treat.Jelly doughnuts are also a part of this seven day festival and they are just as delicious as latkes.
The sweets or sufganiyot originated in Isreal, atlhough the treats are surprisingly Greek.The names comes from sufgan which means puffed and fried.However the word can also come from the Hebrew word for sponge which is what the pastry's texture resembles. The doughnuts can be fried as two separate pieces of dough and then attached with a smear of jam. Some make them as fried balls, injecting with the jam later on. In some ways they resemble the Lenten treats Fasnacht doughnuts which as just plain dough balls that are fried and then rolled in powdered or granulated sugar.
Sufganiyot can be varied to suit tastes. Most people prefer the traditional strawberry, raspberry or apricot jam fillings. However the treats can also be filled with custard as in South America.The doughnuts are stuffed with dulce de leche which also follows the Hanukkah theme of eating dairy (to celebrate one of the holiday's heroine, Judith, who fed wine and cheese to a Syrian general, got him drunk. She then killed him ). Chocolate and vanilla custards are also popular sufganiyot stuffings , especially in Israel. The doughnuts can also be made savory and filled with tomato and Swiss card . The dough recipe can be varied as well. Some add buttermilk to make them more like the New Orleans treat beignets.
Sufganiyot is a wonderful way of celebrating this ancient holiday . Even though the recipe is new , the doughnuts are now part of this tradition. They celebrate the Festival of Lights and the victories that accompany it.
The sweets or sufganiyot originated in Isreal, atlhough the treats are surprisingly Greek.The names comes from sufgan which means puffed and fried.However the word can also come from the Hebrew word for sponge which is what the pastry's texture resembles. The doughnuts can be fried as two separate pieces of dough and then attached with a smear of jam. Some make them as fried balls, injecting with the jam later on. In some ways they resemble the Lenten treats Fasnacht doughnuts which as just plain dough balls that are fried and then rolled in powdered or granulated sugar.
Sufganiyot can be varied to suit tastes. Most people prefer the traditional strawberry, raspberry or apricot jam fillings. However the treats can also be filled with custard as in South America.The doughnuts are stuffed with dulce de leche which also follows the Hanukkah theme of eating dairy (to celebrate one of the holiday's heroine, Judith, who fed wine and cheese to a Syrian general, got him drunk. She then killed him ). Chocolate and vanilla custards are also popular sufganiyot stuffings , especially in Israel. The doughnuts can also be made savory and filled with tomato and Swiss card . The dough recipe can be varied as well. Some add buttermilk to make them more like the New Orleans treat beignets.
Sufganiyot is a wonderful way of celebrating this ancient holiday . Even though the recipe is new , the doughnuts are now part of this tradition. They celebrate the Festival of Lights and the victories that accompany it.
Monday, December 19, 2011
Holidays With Punch
Christmas and New Year's Parties need a good punch to start going.No, not the kind where someone fist slams into your arm,. but a delicious mix of juices, sodas , dairy and various kinds of alcohol. Punches make any holiday gathering special . They add zip and zing along with great tastes. Best of all you can tailor any punch recipe to fit your crowd. Make them to suit the mood, whether they're light or heavy..
The drink is really an Indian concoction known as panch . English traders from the East India Company brought the party drink back to the United Kingdom as early as 1632. It soon became a hit and with the introduction of rum a few years later on became an English holiday staple. The American colonists fell for it and it became a staple of all sorts of occasions, from ceremonies to various holidays.One of the most popular is Planter's punch.It's a great drink, with a combo of rum along with tropical fruit juices and a dash of curacao.It would be perfect for a Caribbean themed barbecue to welcome in the New Year. You can also do variations on the German punsch or Spanish sangria. These are light mixtures that just require fruit and a white or red wine. Some are also made with sparkling varieties such as Prosecco or Asti Spumante.
Heavier punches are another way to go. These are usually made with heavy cream and are perfect with cakes and cookies. One of the most famous is, of course, egg nog. This is a heavy mixture that involves six eggs plus extras yolks along with whole milk and cream. Bourbon is then added to it for kick. It is a great drink however not one that would go well with all holiday savories. I would have it rather with some short breads or crisp buttery snaps . Another heavy but heavenly cream punch is one made with ice cream. The frozen treat is added in chunks to a basic egg nog recipe and then whipped into a thick froth.Of course you can make cream punch just with low fat milk or even soy for a lighter taste and texture.
Holiday punches are a great addition to any party. You can create one to suit the mood, the food or just what people want. It can be light and fruity or heavy and creamy. However you make it, your punch will surely make an impact on your guests!
The drink is really an Indian concoction known as panch . English traders from the East India Company brought the party drink back to the United Kingdom as early as 1632. It soon became a hit and with the introduction of rum a few years later on became an English holiday staple. The American colonists fell for it and it became a staple of all sorts of occasions, from ceremonies to various holidays.One of the most popular is Planter's punch.It's a great drink, with a combo of rum along with tropical fruit juices and a dash of curacao.It would be perfect for a Caribbean themed barbecue to welcome in the New Year. You can also do variations on the German punsch or Spanish sangria. These are light mixtures that just require fruit and a white or red wine. Some are also made with sparkling varieties such as Prosecco or Asti Spumante.
Heavier punches are another way to go. These are usually made with heavy cream and are perfect with cakes and cookies. One of the most famous is, of course, egg nog. This is a heavy mixture that involves six eggs plus extras yolks along with whole milk and cream. Bourbon is then added to it for kick. It is a great drink however not one that would go well with all holiday savories. I would have it rather with some short breads or crisp buttery snaps . Another heavy but heavenly cream punch is one made with ice cream. The frozen treat is added in chunks to a basic egg nog recipe and then whipped into a thick froth.Of course you can make cream punch just with low fat milk or even soy for a lighter taste and texture.
Holiday punches are a great addition to any party. You can create one to suit the mood, the food or just what people want. It can be light and fruity or heavy and creamy. However you make it, your punch will surely make an impact on your guests!
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Holiday Dinner Sides - What Works
Yesterday I wrote about what roasts to grace your holiday table. Today it's another important component to your Christmas or New Year's dinner- the sides. Although they're not as important as the main course, they still have to figure heavily in the dinner menu. The question is here what to serve and how many sides make the perfect meal.
The perfect dinner should have just two sides. If you want more then just stick with a third and only three. Most chefs would agree to have a potato dish of some kind. The most obvious is a bowl of homemade mashed potatoes (no instant - it is the holidays). They go well with gravy , whether from a roast beef or turkey. Another bonus is that they can be turned into fryable puffs the next day. You can have them plain or lightly herbed for some variation. Another good and easy potato dish is scalloped.Again these are easy to prepare, with just slicing the taters and then layering with butter and milk last .Sometimes the simplest is best as in the case with new potatoes. These are tiny , red skinned ones that can be just drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt and rosemary. These go well with nay meat from crown rib to goose to ham to turkey.
Of course there should be one green side.Brussels sprouts are an interesting and elegant choice They can sliced and grilled or parboiled and then baked with melted butter and Parmesan cheese. Spinach is tasty as well. it can be made with just the simple addition of oil and garlic or creamed. Of course you can make that modern American classic, green bean casserole. This is an odd yet surprisingly tasty combo of cream of mushroom soup mixed with soy sauce and milk.It is then poured over green beans and baked ,A layer of crunchy onions is then put over and under the bake.It''s a sure favorite with kids and definite do make if you have little ones over for the holidays.
Making sides for a holiday meal is a pretty easy task.It just takes potatoes and greens to finish off a holiday roast. Anything you make will go perfect with your meat of choice.
The perfect dinner should have just two sides. If you want more then just stick with a third and only three. Most chefs would agree to have a potato dish of some kind. The most obvious is a bowl of homemade mashed potatoes (no instant - it is the holidays). They go well with gravy , whether from a roast beef or turkey. Another bonus is that they can be turned into fryable puffs the next day. You can have them plain or lightly herbed for some variation. Another good and easy potato dish is scalloped.Again these are easy to prepare, with just slicing the taters and then layering with butter and milk last .Sometimes the simplest is best as in the case with new potatoes. These are tiny , red skinned ones that can be just drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt and rosemary. These go well with nay meat from crown rib to goose to ham to turkey.
Of course there should be one green side.Brussels sprouts are an interesting and elegant choice They can sliced and grilled or parboiled and then baked with melted butter and Parmesan cheese. Spinach is tasty as well. it can be made with just the simple addition of oil and garlic or creamed. Of course you can make that modern American classic, green bean casserole. This is an odd yet surprisingly tasty combo of cream of mushroom soup mixed with soy sauce and milk.It is then poured over green beans and baked ,A layer of crunchy onions is then put over and under the bake.It''s a sure favorite with kids and definite do make if you have little ones over for the holidays.
Making sides for a holiday meal is a pretty easy task.It just takes potatoes and greens to finish off a holiday roast. Anything you make will go perfect with your meat of choice.
Friday, December 16, 2011
Holiday Roast Choices
Christmas dinner is one of the most important meals of the year. Not only is it is a celebratory feast but it's a bell weather of how well a person can cook. The problem is choosing a meat you're not familiar with can spell disaster -a holiday surprise you do not want. Luckily there are several choices you can pick from. Find one that suits your ability and you'll create a memorable and perfect holiday dinner.
Many home cooks opt for prime rib roast. Not only is it lush looking but also very flavorful. It also makes a good presentation and looks camera ready sitting on a perfectly set table. Rib roast is also one of the easiest to prepare. Just sprinkle on fresh ground sea salt and pepper and then pop into a waiting oven of 325 F. You can increase the heat to 500 F for the first fifteen minutes and then reduce it to the 325 to sear in the flavor.A two bone roast can serve six to eight while a three bone serves about ten to twelve people. . Another roast worth thinking about is London Broil.This is a good meat for those on a budget.It costs slightly less than most beef cuts yet makes for an elegant piece of meat. It's basically just a think flank steak, however cooked right , it down right buttery in taste and texture.
If you're not into serving beef, then think of the German Christmas dinner staple: ham. You can buy it fresh,cured or cured and smoked. There is some work and prep time for it however yet it's just easy steps. You can pour either ginger ale or pineapple juice over it before cooking. Some cooks also have a rub of brown sugar which offsets the meat's saltiness. Another route is poultry. Turkey is one of the most traditional however since Christmas falls a month after Thanksgiving it may be too repetitive for some people. You can try capon,duck or even goose. All three are surprisingly easy to roast and can create a classy and classic alternative to red meat.
What you want for your Christmas dinner is your choosing. However keep in mind that this is one of the most important meals of the year. Select a roast that you'll know you'll be good at cooking . It's one less worry to deal with on Christmas Day.
Many home cooks opt for prime rib roast. Not only is it lush looking but also very flavorful. It also makes a good presentation and looks camera ready sitting on a perfectly set table. Rib roast is also one of the easiest to prepare. Just sprinkle on fresh ground sea salt and pepper and then pop into a waiting oven of 325 F. You can increase the heat to 500 F for the first fifteen minutes and then reduce it to the 325 to sear in the flavor.A two bone roast can serve six to eight while a three bone serves about ten to twelve people. . Another roast worth thinking about is London Broil.This is a good meat for those on a budget.It costs slightly less than most beef cuts yet makes for an elegant piece of meat. It's basically just a think flank steak, however cooked right , it down right buttery in taste and texture.
If you're not into serving beef, then think of the German Christmas dinner staple: ham. You can buy it fresh,cured or cured and smoked. There is some work and prep time for it however yet it's just easy steps. You can pour either ginger ale or pineapple juice over it before cooking. Some cooks also have a rub of brown sugar which offsets the meat's saltiness. Another route is poultry. Turkey is one of the most traditional however since Christmas falls a month after Thanksgiving it may be too repetitive for some people. You can try capon,duck or even goose. All three are surprisingly easy to roast and can create a classy and classic alternative to red meat.
What you want for your Christmas dinner is your choosing. However keep in mind that this is one of the most important meals of the year. Select a roast that you'll know you'll be good at cooking . It's one less worry to deal with on Christmas Day.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Faking It
This is season for collective church dinners and potluck parties. We all figure the other people worked just as hard on their casseroles and chilis as we did. Or did they? There may be a surprise on that groaning table - a store bought or premade dish.
That was the subject in yesterday’s New York Times article written by Jennufer Steinhauer in the De Gustibus section. Ms. Steinhauer descries those who bring already made dishes and sweets to everything from church dinners to class bake sales. After all if she could do it even with all her flops, then why can’t other parents? She also has harsh words fo those moms who doctor store bought goodies to look like the real homemade deal. It worked a decade ago when working mothers were encouraged to do so . It’s getting - pardon the pun - stale now.
There is also a rant about those who bring already made dishes to other gatherings. However even she admits that it brings deviation to centuries old recipes. Pot luck dinners date back to the 16th Century when people would stop by their host’s home bearing cooked meal. It was “the luck of the pot” whether they received something good or something so-so. The concept caught in in Colonial America, especially out West., when it was usually brought by a cowboy (perhaps where we get the chili tradition at get togethers?). Potluck dinners kept ethnic recipes within the group. It also kept up tradition. However with premade foods, different tastes and cultures are introduced, shattering old , fusty recipes. It could be a good thing for the next generation who are generally bored at potluck suppers..
Should we cheat on our baking and cooking during this holiday season? If you don’t; have the time do so. However be honest about it. People know when there’s lovin’ from the oven and when it’s a fake home bake.
That was the subject in yesterday’s New York Times article written by Jennufer Steinhauer in the De Gustibus section. Ms. Steinhauer descries those who bring already made dishes and sweets to everything from church dinners to class bake sales. After all if she could do it even with all her flops, then why can’t other parents? She also has harsh words fo those moms who doctor store bought goodies to look like the real homemade deal. It worked a decade ago when working mothers were encouraged to do so . It’s getting - pardon the pun - stale now.
There is also a rant about those who bring already made dishes to other gatherings. However even she admits that it brings deviation to centuries old recipes. Pot luck dinners date back to the 16th Century when people would stop by their host’s home bearing cooked meal. It was “the luck of the pot” whether they received something good or something so-so. The concept caught in in Colonial America, especially out West., when it was usually brought by a cowboy (perhaps where we get the chili tradition at get togethers?). Potluck dinners kept ethnic recipes within the group. It also kept up tradition. However with premade foods, different tastes and cultures are introduced, shattering old , fusty recipes. It could be a good thing for the next generation who are generally bored at potluck suppers..
Should we cheat on our baking and cooking during this holiday season? If you don’t; have the time do so. However be honest about it. People know when there’s lovin’ from the oven and when it’s a fake home bake.
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