Enlightening The Heartland

The American heartland has strong , almost cement like roots. Yet there are chefs and bakers who are bringing diversity to these small towns, bringing good food and good ideas to residents there. Hopefully gone will be the days of nativist thinking and the cooking that comes with it.

 Three times James Beard award winner Brett Anderson, a regular contributor and restaurant critic explored this in today's New York Times Food section. He interviewed restaurant and bakery owners Mateo Mackbee and his girlfriend, Erin Lucas. They started the restaurant, Krewe and the artisan bakery Flour and Flower in the small, predominantly white town of Saint Joseph , Minnesota. It's known mainly for being the home of the Catholic college of Saint Benedict and around seventy miles northwest of the more metropolitan Minneapolis - Saint Paul. Here Mr. Mackbee brings his mother's cooking , recipes from her native New Orleans. Both Mr. Mackbee and Ms. Lucas became bored with the still mostly white chef culture in the Twin Cities. They also wanted to bring awareness of racial inequalities to rural communities and to find an alternative to the limited career options available to them. Luckily in Saint Joseph offered Chef Mackbee, an African-American a chance for ownership that he never received in the city, despite his culinary degree and nearly a decade of experience in some of the area's most respected eateries.

Their restaurant also has a diversified staff. Three members of Krewe's four person kitchen staff are people of color. There hopefully will be more restaurants owned by African-Americans and immigrants in this strongly Scandinavian -American area of the country. Stearns County, where Saint Joseph is located is  surprisingly home to some of the largest immigrant communities. Agriculture and food processing jobs have drawn workers from East Africa and Latin America for decades. One is Jennie-O Turkey , a popular brand of frozen food. Unfortunately this has sparked a rise in nativist politics and xenophobia. George Floyd's killing in Minneapolis has reached the small towns. The nearby town of St. Cloud  had their police use tear gas on a crowd of protesters three weeks after Mr. Floyd's murder. Yet. Chef Mackbee persists , and that determination along with encouragement from his friend,  Pastor , Mark Kopka , of the Nordland Lutheran Church. Both bonded over Chef Mackbee's dream of starting a farm where he could bring black students who otherwise didn't have access to nature. He also ran for the City Council in nearby New London. yet it's cooking his mother's beloved recipes that is his passion. His mother,served as principal at St. Paul's Central High for twenty six years and a former student, Melvin Carter III became St. Paul's first African-American mayor.

The heartland, and even the big cities need chefs like Mateo Mackbee and Erin Lucas. They will show how diversity brings variety and harmony to eateries. It's a way of opening up the minds of locals, with good food and good ideas.

Feast Season

One of the best things about September is the many festivals and feasts that occur. These are a foodie's dream with local and ethnic specialties on sale.They're a fun way to celebrate and to experience local specialties.

The month is harvest time in Italy and many southern Italian immigrants brought harvest fests with them. This is apparent in North Jersey where I am. For the last one hundred years St. Joseph's Church in  nearby Lodi designates the Labor Day weekend to celebrate both the church and the St. Joseph Society,it is a multi block celebration. Parishioners donate time and food to create the same memorable dishes that their parents, grandparents and great grandparents made. There is homemade pizza  and sausage and peppers. In past years there was zucchini au gratin, a tasty squash casserole ith a thick layer of Parmesan cheese. The festival also features zeppoli , the fried dough balls that are dredged in a thick coating of confectioner's sugar. This Neopolitan treat is a staple there as is both regular and iced cappuccino. There are also stands that sell fresh torrone, the almond studded nougat popular through out the Italian Republic along with dried and salted chickpeas call ceces (pronounced cheechees). The same stand has my favorite - fresh biscotti. There's nothing like them, double in size than the regular ones, perfect with a swipe of butter on it.

One of the biggest Italian feasts San Gennaro is also this month.It has been held annually since 1926  and is going into its' ninetieth year. It was started by immigrant families living on Mulberry Street. along with shop owners. Funds raised were given to needy families. The festival grew from a few days to eleven days.There's also one in the Italian section in the Bronx with much of the same food.It also spread to Las Vegas while Jimmy Kimmel and Adam Corolla brought it to Los Angeles in 2003 where it's been a staple since.Not only is there pizzas and sausage and peppers , There are also calzones, those ricotta cheese and filled little sacks of pizza dough that are dipped in pizza sauce. The San Gennaro festival was usually the first place that many tourists first tasted gelati and Italian ice. The festival is still known for its' flavorful lemon and orange ices as well as ice cream that has strong echoes of gelaterie in Rome. Not to be outdone, there are also German festivals too, mainly to celebrate Steuben Day, named after one of the architects of the American Revolution General Von Steuben. There are also celebrations that have hock and bratwurst as well as weissebier and jaegermeister.

September is the time for festivals and food. Celebrate with fun festival foods and traditions. It's a great way  to honor saints and harvest times.

Celebrating Saint Joseph’s Day

Two days ago the Irish celebrated the feast of Saint Patrick , today other nationalities such as the Italian and the Polish celebrate Saint Joseph’s Day. it’s mostly a big feast on the Italian islands of Malta and Sicily where special dinners and pastries are served. Lots also Italy’s Father’s Day where dad and grandfathers are honored from Trieste to Torino, from the Alps to the Adriatic.

Last year I wrote about this days pastries which are incredible. Many love the zeppolis , the ricotta filled fried puffs along with cream puffs also stuffed with a cannoli filling. However in some Sicilian and Maltese households. However there are also other dishes served before that. Spaghetti is big but it has to be serve d with a meatless sauce or topped with crunchy breadcrumbs. Broccoli rabe can also be served , probably with the salmons balls or fried codfish, baccala that the Sicilians are so fond of eating. Other dishes include stuffed (meatless) peppers and orange salad, all indicative of the two islands’ bounty of fish an harvests
Sweets are also a big part is the festa or holy day. Not only are zeppolis served but also rum cakes and various cookies. Zeppolis are usually made at home and recipes vary from family to family. Most make them with a choux paste, the same dough used in making cream puffs. Some bakers make add orange or lemon zest for more flavor. The filling is always a ricotta cheese one, either redolent with chocolate chips or lemon zest. Some put bitter cherries on top to decorate the zeppolis. This adds a nice dose of tartness to the taste. All are then lightly dusted with confectioner’s sugar .
Saint Joseph’s Day is just as important as St Patricks Day. It celebrates the saint along with fathers throughout Italy. it’s also celebrate s th e foods of Sicily and Malta as well.