Rethinking Cauliflower

One of the staples of any holiday dinner is cauliflower. It can be served raw as in salad or crudites or cooked with lemon or garlic. Many home chefs are put off by it. They shouldn't be. It;s an easy, versatile cook.

Allison Roman wrote about this beloved veggie in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Her guide and recipes are extensive. The guide is very useful and the dishes are re-imagining cooking and spicing the florets. keep in mind the weight. A fresh picked one will retain water .Also the outer leaves should be compact and have clusters of florets. Avoid those with dark spots and a soft spongy texture. They are way past their prime. You can buy your Thanksgiving cauliflower now, They will last a week in the fridge. Wrap it tightly in plastic though. The florets' size more or less determines what you can do with them. Try to break them into bite size pieces using your fingers or a knife. The core and leaves are edible and actually delicious. Cauliflower leaves taste like cabbage  The core is more meatier than the florets. but its' flavor is the same. Use it as opposed to just throwing it in the trash. You can slice the head into thick slabs to grill,Just keep in mind that the smaller arts will fall offing during roasting. Ms. Roman suggests  roasting them until they're extra crispy or save them for salads.

As for the cooking them, Ms, Roman suggests almost every method to cook them. You can steam . saute , roast or puree them. You could just serve them raw. They're great for dipping and crunching. Steaming is another method which produces a blank canvas. Try the steamed florets with cheese or browned butter, topped with chopped crunchy nuts.Better methods are roasting which gives an even coat of caramelization. Add cumin or hot pepper flakes for bite. You will need plenty of olive oil for the florets. Cauliflower can also be gratined too.Add heavy cream and Gruyere for a really lush dish. You could add onions , garlic and leeks  but that may sully the flavor .Pureed cauliflower is another option. You can start off the holiday dinner with a silky soup, Just remember that it does take more work by transferring the creamed veggie to a blender. You can use either chicken or vegetable broth for a thinner texture or milk or even cream for a thicker potage.For a truly hip dish, think pickled florets.Sub in the cauliflower for cucumbers in any pickling recipe.

Cauliflower is one of the most versatile veggies out there. Pick a good one. Then decide what to make of it.