Rediscovering Anchovies

Anchovies are those fish that either bring forth a chorus of "ahhs" or ughhs." Most people usually emit the last, vilifying the tasty little swimmers. Most people haven't had a proper anchovy that's a combination of both salty and sweet. It's time to change their attitudes.

This was the subject in yesterday's New York Times Dining section.Dining regular , Jeff Gordinier writes glowingly about this sometimes overlooked , most often times hated fish. Anchovies are actually very good health and nutritionwise . They are rich in Omega 3 fatty acids and are excellent for those suffering from rheumatoid arthritis. Their taste packs a wallop for those use to bland tasting fish.. There is a strong brininess to them that goes well with certain foods. Most people know them from gracing pizzas however they figure prominently in Piedmontese cooking. Ironically, this landlocked provence is known for its; anchovy sauce, bagna calda where bits of Savoy cabbage and meat are heated in hot bath combo of the fish, hot oil and butter.(although anchovies were brought to the Piedmontese Alps to dry before packing)

Anchovies are making a big comeback in New York hipster restaurants,Bon Chovie, operated by couple Renae and Neill Holland , sells bread crumb dipped fried anchovies which are getting a wide and loyal following.Seamus Mullen , chef at the West Village's Tertulia creates a silky blend of the fish and creamy sheep's milk cheese called tosta matrimonio. It is a marriage of delicious saltiness and sweetness. Diners are also falling for the tapas staple, boquerones, the elegantly pale and cured anchovy, now starring at a number of Spanish eateries. Anchovies with Italian salsa verde are big at another restaurant Sorella where the chef Emma Hearst makes them in the true Ligurian style. There are some pizzerias that serve anchovies as toppings and the pies are worth trying.

Anchovies are becoming hip again. Yet fall for their taste, a rich blend of salty and sweet and be hooked. Try them with cheese for a different spin or tapas style , plump and marinated ot with a fresh, earthy salsa verde. Even if they're gracing a pizza they'll be just as tasty- bringing out the sweetness of the mozzaella and tomato sauce.