Purifying The Vinyards

No one ever thinks of pesticides when they drink wine. The grapes used, maybe .definitely the bouquet , along with the taste and after notes  No oenophile ever thinks about the possible blight a wine's purity. Yet it's important to do so and to whether what they're drinking is organic or not.

This debate has been polarizing vintners throughout France and even the Piedmonte section of Northwestern Italy.Elaine Sciolino reported on it in yesterday's New York Times food section. Along with interviewing various wine growers she also attended some tastings as well.To most, especially to the people who make wines there is no difference between regular and pure wine. Pure wine comes from non pesticide sprayed vines.  Hipster  wine tasters and sellers want organic wine, :according to them it tastes better. More experienced vintners say this is balderash.Organic wine is the same as wine made from sprayed grapes. Either has the potential for excellency or disaster.  To be honest there is a limit of how much chemical can be sprayed on grapes to protect them.Many vines have been saved from flavescence d'or or golden rot, a deadly bacterial disease thanks to mandatory treatment in some areas. However winemakers could look to Piedmontese vintner Stefano Belloti who planted different crops around his grapes to inhibit pests. His grapes are surrounded by peach and almond trees along with mustard plants. He also has ducks and chickens around to  eat  plants that would also threaten his grapevines

Of course there are vintners who go against pesticides. There is money made on anything untouched by chemicals and organic wine is big right now. These naturalist winemakers, such as Emannual Giboulot , who refuse to use anything on both plants and soil. Monsieur Giboulet even won a court case allowing his vines to forgo any treatment.It was not without trauma and drama. He was threatened with a six month jail stay and a $33,000 fine, in 2014 he also refused to spray his vineyard with Pyrevert. a much used pesticide in France It resulted in a thousand dollar fine . along eith annoying and angering  nearby winemakers. They feel that unsprayed crops could bring about contagious diseases and destructive insects. Many associate it with parents sending unvaccinated children to school. Monsieur Giboulet asserts that going without spraying is better. It even allows insects beneficial to the growing process, to thrive as well The soil is also not contaminated which is good for upcoming plants.. Another plus of not spraying is that the wine can be sold as organic. However that means less sulfites as well which could result in selling a wine that's more like old grape juice than , well, wine.

Most purists these days will buy an organic wine or one that started out with pesticide sprayed grapes. The question is will this purity make for a better bouquet and flavor? That's up to the individual. Ms. Sciolino found that what she savored had the same rough edge as her grandfather's wine. If that;s what works , then  stick with the purer vino.