Wednesday, July 5, 2023

A New Breed Of Texas Barbecue

 Reecipes evolve to fit the taste of a younger generation. Thisi is true of tradtional Texas barbecue which isnt that traditional anymore. There are new flavors and alternative dishes that are livening up this classic fare.

Regular contributor Brett Anderson wrote about Texas barbecue in today's New YorkTimes Food section.The best of it comes from Lockhart,a town southwest of Austen.It's changing. No longer is is the domain of white male pitmasters or central European immigrants who brought a different form  -brisket - ot the States. The new Texas barbecue gives vouce to a population that have been diversified by other states and countries. There's also a cultural dialogue between urban and rural artesans as well. Much of it nods to American barbecue orgins in the live fire cooking of the Indigenous and enslaved Africans. yet it also derives from Texans  sharing their hom e cooking with the public at large. The foot print for the recipe comes from the state's ranching industry. The quantity and quality of the "trinity", sausage, ribs and especially brisket.

Barbecue is taking on new flavors .Pitmasters are incorporating such international flavors as lemongrass, gochujang,turmeric and fenugreek.There's also kimchi and slasa negra .Lamb chops and tuna collar have also made their way int o the barbecue menu as the spicy Ethiopian chicken stew doro wat. There is also brisket curry, enchiladas', shawarma ans ramen.Texans with a Mexican background have always made batbece their way with guacamole  and charro beansalong with pico di gallo. There was also barbecue made with goat, a Mexican staple.The whole idea of white men running barbecue joints is also being challenged. Barbs B-Q,a Lockhart favorite is run by women, an unusual feat in the industry. Alexis Tovlas Morales, HaleyConlin and Chuck Chanichart are changing the landscape but also follow the othodoxy of barbecue by cooking brisket, beef and pork. Then there are Phong and Hong Tran, representative of the  large Vietnamese community who gives the recipe a South Asian spin. It; served over rice with a drizzle of tomato based sauce.

Barbecue is the backbone of Texas cooking. However it;s catching up with the times and changing. There are new flavors coming in , changing this classic dish.


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