A Movement Of Heritage and Inclusion

For decades African-American chefs had to cook and refine Euro-centric dishes. Yet there are a new generation of chefs who have  been influence by  the Caribbean and Africa as well as home. It's a new delicious standard full of spins and variations

John Eligon and Julia Moskin collaborated on this informative piece for today's New York Times Food section.John Eligon is a Kansas City based Times reporter covering race issues for the paper while Ms. Moskin is a regular contributor to the Food section. Together they explored the next generation of African -American chef and the dishes that they've created. These chefs have pushed way past the Eurocentric traditions learned at culinary school. There are greater influences such as the African diaspora and  techniques from Nigeria, Brazil, Morocco and Trinidad and Tobago. They use such diverse ingredients as conch, berbere - a spice mix found in Ethiopian and Eritrean cooking, fonio - a West African millet grain and cassava - the South American yam. Will this make an impact on the way America eats? Most definitely since the restaurant business has the highest amount of diversity than any other American business or industry.

This new vanguard have a variety of different signature dishes.Nyesha Arrington of Los Angeles relies on the terroir of her native Los Angeles.It is a blend of Californian, Mexican, Chinese and Persian, reflecting the city's ethnic landscape. Her key dish is olive oil poached halibut with pickled oyster mushrooms and Sungold cherry tomatoes. Jerome Grant who creates phenomenal dishes at The national Museum of African-American History and Culture in Washington  serves an oyster pan roast with shaved fennel and sesame crackers. Chef  Ashleigh Shanti looks to her Southern heritage for inspiration at her eatery Benne On Eagle in Asheville, North Carolina.. Her hummus is made from black eyed peas instead of chickpeas and fermented benne seeds instead of tahini. Chef Shanti's buttermilk cornbread soup is a take on her grandmother putting leftover cornbread into buttermilk and drinking it. There is the Japanese influence in her cabbage pancakes, based on okonomiyaki. other chefs are influenced by their Congolese roots or commitment to vegetarianism.
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The new generation of African-American chefs are shaping the way America is eating. They are bringing tradition and verve to a hungry landscape. They are expanding our palates with traditional and no so traditional dishes.