Drew Nieporent is one of the one of the last great
restauranteurs. His kind is not seen that often anymore
, sort of being a culinary dinosaur of sorts. Yet he was and still is a strong presence on the Manhattan restaurant scene for four decades. As long as there's a trendy eatery to oversee, he's there.
He was the subject of a fascinating interview and article in yesterday's New York Times Food section written by Alan Richman
.Drew Nieporent is an interesting throwback to the Sixties when larger than life hosts/owners greeted and seated customers. Mind you, this is the era before celebrity chefs like Bobby Flay and Mario Batale ruled the roost. The era brought such stars as Sirio Maccioni of Le Cirque, Joe Baum
,of both the Twelve Caesars and The Four Seasons and Georges Lang of the famed Cafe Des Artistes. They shone more than than their cooks did
, as
. Nieporent does now with his own. His father is to thank for this love. The elder Neiporent worked for the New York State Liquor Authority where there were endless invitations to eat free from restaurant owners looking for easy ways to maneuver through bureaucratic channels. As a child, Nieporent dined at the fancy San Marino where his mother properly taught to twirl spaghetti on a spoon and ate egg rolls and sweet and sour pork at China Song., right next to the Ed Sullivan Theater. He ate there the night the Beatles first appeared on Ed Sullivan's show.
It was inevitable that
. Nieporent went into the hospitality industry, graduating from Cornell School of Hotel Administration and worked on the cruise ships, Vistafjord and Sagafjord during his summer vacations
.His first jobs were at the prestigious Le Perigord, Le Regence, La Grenouille and La Reserve. He also worked as assistant restaurant director at the famed Maxwell's Plum, owned by one of the greatest
restauranteurs, Warner Leroy. Later he would hire the now famous David Bouley, who was then a little known chef from San Francisco. He was also responsible for bringing eateries to the then industrial wasteland, Tribeca. This was back in 1983 when no one really ventured south of Broadway. He'd have to find customers who called saying they were lost on their way to the restaurant, scared to even venture into the dark deserted streets.
.He Is credited with inventing the
inexpensive prix fixe dinner for $16.00 at Montrachet. He is also partners with Robert
Di Niro and is currently a partner in five (! )
restaurants right now (he's owned over forty for forty years
)that include the trendy Nobu and Tribeca Grill.
Drew Nieporent is ne of the last of his breed, yet he is as influential now as he was back forty years ago. He is responsible for what Manhattan eats and the food trends that touch our lives. He is the heartbeat behind the city's dining scene
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