Crackling Good

Yesterday’s New York Times Dining section had an interesting article on a much loved but much less publicized snack - pork cracklings. These are those pork rinds that most of us avoid in the snack aisle. However when made fresh they’re a different animal so to speak, - crackly salty and meaty. They’re also easy to make on your own and can be varied in flavor.

The piece, written by Kim Severson describes the different kinds of cracklings or scratchings. She mentions the tart vinegar soaked lechon served at Filipino weddings, the Chinese pork belly called siu yuk and the Cuban style crackling bits. There are also recipes for the Italian version called porchetta which requires sage, thyme and rosemary along with dry white or red wine There is also a Cajun recipe that features sashes of spicy cayenne and paprika peppers . This give the meat and fat a zing as well as a fiery yet flavorful taste.

If you are thinking about making crackling. then buy either boneless pork belly or shoulder. The best crackling does come out the best in what’s know as a combi oven This is an oven that first blasts moist heat and dry to thoroughly cook the crackling. Unfortunately the average cook can’t afford one. The best bet is roasting for two hours in a low heat oven (about 250 degrees Fahrenheit), Crackling can be fried but I think it may just be too greasy to eat afterwards.

Pork rinds are not as low brow as food snobs think they are. If made right, they can be wonderful - and highly addictive. iI’s just a matter of how to prepare and season them for the perfect treat.