The Return Of Applejack

 One of the most American of drinks is making a huge comeback. Applejack is returning to bars and homes, bolstered by a new curiosity abut this fruity spirit. It's becoming popular , not only with hipsters but with those wanting to make this drink, as old as the US itself.

Julia Moskin wrote about it and the distilleries making it in yesterday's New York Times food section. She even has included a recipe for an applejack butter pecan Bundt cake with caramel frosting and a wild drink recipe calling for it, These are new applications for a drink that 's usually been just been served on its' own. The alcohol began with early colonists making do with what was grown around them - namely apple trees. The harvest was then jacked , a distilling method that does not involve the usual method of boiling but of freezing. Any household with an abundance of cold weather and apple cider could make this heady drink. With each freeze the water in the cider turns to slush. Each time the ice is skimmed off, the concentration of alcohol grows and what's left in the barrel reaches forty proof.That clear spirit is applejack, not as strong as vodka but potent enough. American legend , Johnny Appleseed or as he was baptized, John Chapman,an apple grower went through the Blue Ridge Mountains scattering seeds. It wasn't for the promise of pie but for applejack. Apple orchards were prime real estate in the 1700's because apples were not only a viable food source but also important for making the spirit.

Now apple jack distilleries are making a big comeback one hundred years after Prohibition nearly obliterated them and authorities razed the orchards that produced them. One of the oldest is Laird from Colt's Neck New jersey that actually started making hard cider and apple jack in 1698. Laird's apple jack was so popular during the Colonial Era that even George Washington wanted the recipe to bring back to Mount Vernon ( Laird's longstanding relationship with the White House came in handy during Prohibition when the distillery was granted a "special federal license" to make  it for "medicinal  purposes"). The company today has a good selection of apple brandies made from Winesaps, Jonathans,Delicious and Pippin apples. Many other distilleries use these as well as Arkansas Black. They can't use  big sweet apples like Red and Golden delicious because they were bred for eating and are too sugary in flavor. Applejack is also aged, much like Calvados, the much loved apple brandy from Normandy, The spirit is usually aged in cast off casks from bourbon and scotch makers. Apple jack can be drunk by itself or mixed with dark rum as well as other juices. Ms Moskin puts it into a kicky Bundt cake that's also rich with butter and cream cheese.

The most American of spirits is coming back to lift our spirits. applejack is returning to the homes and bars once again. Try this heady sip and enjoy its' kick and fruity flavor.