The Crust Of The Matter

It's Thursday and that means a dissection of the lead article in the NY Times Food section. It was a good article devoted to pizza crust. It's more of a local article , dealing with what NY pizzerias make the best crust. (although I'm sure many other cities, especially Chicago can bake up a good crust too).


The article written by the famed Frank Bruni goes on to ask what makes a good pizza? According to Bruni it's the crust but the other ingredients plus the toppings are just as important. TO be honest NewYork pizza is the best because of the water that's used in the dough. The same can be said of New York bagels. The area is a hard water one and that plays a vital part in the making of any good NY bread dough.Another factor is the question of using a coal burning oven. This always makes the best bottom, with a tender midsection and crispy outer edge. the problem is not leaving it in so long as the crust crackles and burns. The problem is you don't want it too crunchy or too soggy, this last will give it the appearance ,taste and texture of a frozen pie.

What goes on top is also important as the article proclaims. The best topping is fresh tomatoes with a mild mozzarella and fresh picked basil. This classic Margerita style is the best and the easiest for at home pizzioli. If there are to be toppings, don't glop them on. Bruni would rather have them in little bits, and likens them to the ingredients of a perfectly made salad. After all, a salad can't be too gloppy and loaded with extras. It has to have a light, crunchy base and be infused, more or less , with the ingredients who have a cameo role.


What makes a good pizza.A crispy crust, fresh tomatoes, a smattering of cheese and the barest ingredients. Add in a good coal oven and that's all it takes.