The Heart Of Puerto Rican Cooking

 Puerto Rican cooking is island cooking, It's a mix of European and indigenous ingredients, blended together to form a unique cuisine. Most of all it's home cooking - the comforting hug needed during hard times and hurricanes, holiday and happy times.

Von Diaz,food professor. author of several cookbooks and articles seen in Bon Appetit, Eater and Epicurious magazines wrote this interesting article along with recipes in today's New York Times Food section.  She is Puerto Rican herself, however being raised in the States, namely Atlanta Georgia, but her heart and cooking belong to this complex tropical island. Its' cooking is a blend of Taino, the original culture of the island along with African and Spanish. Even modern American cooking has lent a hand - thanks to the introduction of canned food. There is also a nouvelle cuisine vibe with pastellos de guyaba, a mix of cheese queso en hoja and guava paste.Of course the backbone of Puerto Rican cooking is sofrito, a cooked mix of garlic , onions and peppers and spiked with culantro - cilantro's cousin. This is in many dishes. such as arroz mamposteao, a rice dish also made with beans and veggie or chicken broth.  Sofrito is in other dishes too, like sancocho, a stew that combines, beef, pork and chicken with the indigenous roots  like white yautia and yucca.

Of course the highlight of any Puerto Rican holiday dinner is pernil.This is a pork shoulder marinated in garlic, citrus and herbs and then roasted for an hour in a 400 degree Farenheit oven . The marinade is a flavorful combo of sour orange juice, garlic cloves, and oregano. (Professor DIaz also offers a tip for cleaning the roast pan too because the skin will stick). Another delicious main course is pescado frito, fried snapper. Again, the marinade is the same as the pernil, except with the addition of sazon - a mix of coriander,garlic cumin and annatto - seeds from the achiote tree. This gives color and flavor to the fish which is cut in three places, better for the marinade to soak in. It's then fried, whole, head an tail in vegetable oil. The fried fish is served with lime. What can end all these dishes? Those pastillos de guyaba, easily made with puff pastry dough. Farmer's cheese can be used in place  of fresco en hoja.  They should be left to cool because the guava gets molten hot and will badly burn your mouth.) Once cool, sprinkle confectioner's sugar over them  and store in an airtight container. Stale ones can be refreshed in a 350 degree Fareneheit oven for five minutes before eating.

Puerto Rican cooking is rich and complex. It's a mix of all sorts of flavors , indigenous, Spanish and African.  This is a perfect blend of deliciousness, pride and history.

A Resourceful Cuisine From Puerto Rico

 The island of Puerto Rico has been through some rough times lately.. Hurricane Maria devastated this beautiful island three years ago and now the Corona virus is doing the same thing and then some. Luckily the Puerto Ricans  are resourceful and know how to create dishes from very little. Their recipes are nourishment for the body and for the soul.

Von Diaz, author of many cookbooks reflecting her heritage, wrote this informative piece for today's New York Times Food section. 

There are also classic island recipes too, home chefs can try.  This beautiful island has been dealing with hurricanes since recorded time, the earliest one being Hurricane San Roque in 1508. Islanders have been resourceful, relying on foraging and each other for food and ingredients when electricity and water have become scarce.A pandemic is different. People can't come together. They can't share. There is food insecurity and limited supplies. Yet they rally. The Puerto Ricans can take the ingredients given to them and turn them into filling and delicious dinners. This is true in the case of plantains which came from Africa to the Caribbean to feed enslaved workers.They're blended with Spanish based ingredients such as garlic, olive oil and pork cracklings to give the famed and flavor packed dish mofongo. Arroz con pollo is another dish which is a marriage of indigenous herbs and a European basic  - chicken. Then there is Spam which came to the island in 1947 with Operation Bootstrap. It may have wrecked Puerto Rico's agriculture but it became a beloved ingredient in many dishes.Crispy fried Spam figures in many dishes from Spam and eggs to Spam guisado with tomatoes, olives and potatoes.

The recipes included are Spam macaroni and cheese and the classic arroz con pollo. The first is a nice departure from the usual mac and cheese. A whole can of Spam is used, as it's first fried for ten minutes until crispy.It will have a smoky ham flavor, sort of like bacon. Ms. Diaz recommends tasting it along away to decide what is the desired crispness. The rest of the recipe is not that far from the classic baked mac and cheese. The cheeses used are the spicy Monterey Jack and a sharp yellow cheddar. Milk and flower along with seasonings are added too. For a more involved recipe, definitely try the arroz con pollo. There is the adobo marinade which is a mix of garlic, olive oil and white vinegar mixed with oregano and black pepper.Then to give the chicken and rice more flavor there's sofrito, a mix of red bell peppers, aji or amarillo pepper, garlic,onion and the two herbs cousins, culantro and cilantro. Culantro can be bought at either Latin or Asian markets. Use boneless , skinless chicken thighs that have the adobo poured over them Let them marinate for at least thirty minutes and then cook them in a Dutch oven. Sofrito, tomato sauce and chicken broth are added. The chicken meat is pulled as the rice is added. It's fluffed together with green olives  to create a flavorful , filling meal, perfect for the cold days ahead. You can serve with salted avocado and tomato slices along with a squirt of lime juice.

The Puerto Ricans have been resourceful for a very long time. They can take the most basic of ingredients and turn them into the most flavorful dishes. It's a reflection of their resilient spirits and souls.