Mention truffle capitol and most people will automatically think of Torino where truffles are found along the city'ss outskirts and neighboring woods. Yet the US has its own truffle capital- Eugene Oregon. Will America truffles catch on? Possibly.
Regular contributor and restaurant critic Pete Wells stepped out of his comfort zone to head to Oregon and write about these gems in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday Food section.It seems the woodlands outside Eugene make for excellent truffle grounds however truffles have been found as north as Vancouver Island in British Columbia and as south as Port Reyes, California just north of San Francisco. There are two varieties that grown here - white and black. The ideam land is former grassland now planted with Douglas first. A truffle hunter like Charles Lefebrve knows this land although it does help to use Google Earth to track down exact locations. He also used two trained dogs, Dante and Luca. Their breed is Lagooto Romagnolos ,a breed particularly raised to sniff out truffles, originating in the PO Valley. However other dogs throughout the Eugene area can be trained to hunt for truffles, no matter the breed.
What are the truffles used for? Pacific Northwest ones seem to be used only by chefs in the region. East Coast chefs have rarely heard of them (although that could be about to changes thanks to this article). They are not the same as their Northern Italian cousins however. This proved to be the case for Elias Cairo, owner of Olympia Provisions in Portland,.He found they have their own flavor profile that represents "this really cool forest" in the United States. Luckily there is the Oregon Truffle Festival.It;s focused on helping chefs understand the fungi. Mr Cairo cures salame next to the white truffles so the meat can soak up the aroma, usually a aromatic blend of nutmeg, allspice and cloves. They also emit a gamy musk that reminds him of wild boar. Chef Deb Meyer of Choux Pastries has infused that aroma into goat cheese filling for her macarons. The blacks themselves are usually milder except when they are at the smelliest. They can still turn heads. However unlike the European variety they can be used in desserts. A chocolatier in Eugene makes a truffle truffle, glossy domes of white chocolate filled with truffle infused creme fraiche. There;'s also n ice cream infused with black truffles too.
Piedmontese truffles are the creme de la creme of eating. Yet the Oregonian ones are gaining in strength and popularity. It may be that Oregon may beat Northern Italy as the world's truffle capital-.
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