Thursday, October 20, 2022

Une Souffle Parfait

 One of the most elegant desserts any home chef can create is the chocolate souffle. It's also the lushest sweet, airy and delciate as it melts against the tongue. Yet it fills home bakers with fear.It shouldn't.it's one of the easiest recipes to make.

Claire Saffitz, author of DessertPerson "Clarkson POtter 2020) and her latest book due out next month, Dessertperson: Recipes and Guidance for baking with Confidence. (Clarkson Potter) gave her spin on it in yesterday;s New Yorlk Times Wednesday Food section. Ms. Saffitz knows desserts. She loves desserts so creating the perfect chocolate souffle is vital to her. She crushes the many myths associated with the recipe, like don't slam the oven door while it's baking. It'll fall. Eat it warm or it will be ruined.However her deconstruction can help many a home baker recreate this French classic. One of the most important steps is stabilize your eggs.The dish requires three egg yolks and five egg whites. You need to understand the last in order to make a good souffle. It;'s the egg whites that are the most important. They're to be whipped and when this is dome air bubbles trap water and retain water.Older eggs provide this and Ms. Saffitz recommneds getting them from the local farmer's market. The eggs have to be cold as well when they're separated and then the whites are left out at room tmperature before beating. The whites have to be beaten into stiff peaks otherwhise there could be puddles.

Another must is buildng your base. Chocolate souffle needs an anchor of sorts This comes in the form of a thin pastry creme thickened with a little flour along with chocolate and cocoa powder. The gluten from the flour adds just enough structure to support the souffle without muting the rich chocolate flavor.Many souffle recipes rely on just the chocolate alone for support. The eggs whites are quickly added other wise the combination of yolk chococlate and milk could cause the whites to collapse. Another must is properly prepping the ramekins. They're first greased with room temperature butter and then coated with sugar to prevent cracking and the batter sticking to the sides while baking.It also acts like a grip for the batter to adhere to. fill the ramekins to the top and then scrape off the top for a perfect even cap, Sprinkle more sugar on top and run a finger along the inner rims wiping away the batter. This will ensure a perfect even rise.How do you know when it's done? Press the souffles centers down with a finger. There should be a certain springiness as the eggs begin to ser. Serve warm from the oven.

Any home baker can create the perfect chocolate souffle. It just takes myth busting and following the recipe ina thoughtful way.. The result is a chocolate fantasty , light airy and delciosuClaire Saffritz, New York Times chocolate souffle. eggsl whipp, ramekinds, butter dugr, flout 

Wednesday, October 19, 2022

The Sweetness Of Dewali

 Monday is the start of Diwali, the Hindu Festival of Lights. As with any holiday. there are fun foods and treats. One of the best spects of the holiday is that there is always freshly made sweets on hand to enjoy with fanily and friends.

Regular contributor and cookbook author Proya Krishna wrote about this celebration of light over darkness in today's New York Times Food section. There will celebrations worldwide along with ones here in the States.Ms Krishna heads to South Asian shops across the country to sample their special Diwali treats or mithai. There is Maharaja Sweets in Jackson Heights Queens. Owner Sukhdev Bawa employees  travel back to India on aregular basis and bring back ideas for regional snacks. He has the Bengali sweet amarkali filled with cherries and pistacchios. He ships these and other mithai sweets across the country.Kent , Washingon  outside of Seattle has Punjab Sweets offering such treats as besan burfi made with chickpea flour and milk cake. The owner Iqbal Dha hires only other women to bake a variety of desserts. It's also the central meeting place for many of the desi community.Jayasri Sweets of Herndon Virginia has got such a reputation that even people bring its' signature sweet, kaja a deep fried pastry back to India to show relatives the Americn version. Owner Jaysari Gampa and her husband Dilipkumar run this popular bakery. 

Some mithai makers have adapted American ingredients. Sohan Lal Gaba uses cow's milk instead of buffalo for his slabs of milk cake in his Brij Mohan Indian Sweets and Restaurant in Sharonville, Ohio, a Cincinnati suburb.he also found the American versions of chickpea floir and sugar were much different too. Surati Farsan Market in Artesia, California, a big South Asian hub is opend for twenty hours a day during this time. The store is festooned with lights as owner Ashvin Patel sells such goodies as cashew based kaju katli and  coconut rich kopra pak. Ms. Krishna also includes recipes for coconut ladoos from Jaysari Gampa and Mr. Patels' caramel badam burfi. The ladoos are a mix of just unsweetened coconut, sugar and cardamon. The coconut and sugar are cooked together as they become a kind of candy. The spice is added later as the blend is rolled into golfball sized balls. The badam burfi is  like a milky fudge made with cooked milk , sugar and almond flour.It's then pressed intoa pan and caramel and nuts are poured over ir.

Celebrate Dowali with lights, love and sweets. These mithai are deilcious whether store bought or homemade. Enjoy them with family and friends.

Tuesday, October 18, 2022

Good Old Fashioned Sweet Breads

 This is definitely the season for baking. There are pies and cakes galore. ovens are producing cupcakes and cookies for bake sales and Halloween parties. Yet there's one baked good that's being over looked. The sweet bread. There's nothing like a slice of cinnamon or honey flavored bread slathered with butter on a cold fall day. 

Sweet breads (not to be confused with a calf or lamb pancreas that some bold meat lovers enjoy) have been around for centuries. As long as there was honey or rose water and dough home bakers could create loaves and rolls that could be perfect for breakfast or even with the main meal. The Portuguese are famous for theirs ,made with milk, sugar and lemon zest. Portuguese workers brought them to  Hawaii where they immigrated for jobs, These evolved into the famed Hawaiian rolls that now eveyone loves. The Italians have gubana, a sweet loaf that's filled with dried fruits and nuts. Of course they also bake pannettone and pan dolce for Christmas. Sweets breads can also take the form of rolls as in England's Chelsea buns which is a lightly iced  cousin to the American sticky bun and the Dutch rasin filled  krentenbollen and the Jamaican coco bread made with coconut milk.It's up to you what you;d  like to make, whether a loaf or rolls.If you're new to baking stick with loaves. They're easier to form and you dont; have to worry about a batch of rolls' sizing. equal sizing .

A simple sweet loaf recipe just calls for  a cup of milk and a half a cup of sugar.  Eggs enrich the dough ,giving it a cake like crumb while butter gives it a higher rise and a crisper crust along with a longer shelf life.Like any other bread recipe there's also yeast and all purpose flours. You can make it an all natural one by using whole wheat flour and honey for the white sugar. Another  healthier ingredient that you can use instead of sugar is maple syrup. This gives the bread a lovely earthy flavor and is perfect for that Quebecois dessert - Tarte Au Sucre where the bread is topped with maple sugar and a fluffy mix of sour and heavy creams. Use about quarter of a cup of the  pure kind (not the cheaper version mixed with corn syrup. You won't get the rich maple flavor ). One egg and four tablespoons of sweet butter are also added for a decidedly lush flavor. One you've mastered the art of making the sweet bread loaves you can graduate to rolls. One tasty one, perfect for breakfast or a snack is the mexican concha bread baked in the shape of a conch shell. You will need a special concha tin for this .It can easily be bought on Amazon. They can be made with chocolate or vanilla topping. Another fun try is the british Chelsea bun made similarly to our cinnamon buns. They';re filled with raisins and cinnamon along with brown sugar. They;re more fruity than spicy but still so good.

Sweet breads are a perfect fall baking project Start a chilly morning with a warm sweet slice and coffee. They're easy to make and even easier to eat.



Monday, October 17, 2022

Home Baked Breakfast Treats

 Breakfast sould be the most important meal of the day. It's sometimes the most boring , thanks to an every day rote of toast or cereal. Try home baked treats that are both healthy and nutritious to liven up the first meal of day . Another plus  - they can be eaten on the go.

One of the most fun breakfast treats is a good for you muffin.  Use healthy ingredients like honey and orange juice for sweetening and flavor along with mixing whiole oats with flour,. They can even be made eggless by subbing in flax seed or Just Egg vegan substitute and employing plant or nut milks for dairy. can a chocolate muffin be just as healthy? Yes!!!! You can even pack them with veggies for extra goodness. Spinach, kale, carrots or bananas can be added for extra vitamins and minerals. cooca powder, which doesn't have eany extra sugar or even fat is mixed into the recipe. You can amp up the flavor with tossing in chocolate chips. If these are too sweet then think about the classic bran muffin. This has whole wheat pastry flour along with wheat bran in it. Blackstrap molasses and apple sauce give the classic batch their deeply rich and fruity flavor.Blackstrap molasses is rich in antioxidants and helps with bone and hair health as well as alleviating anemia. Make ti an important part of breakfast baking.

Another tasty and healthy breakfast treat are breakfast bars. These are fun and a bit easier to make than muffins. Tne ingredients are basically the same as the muffins. Rolled oats give the bars their base and crunch while maple syrup or honey lend it sweetness. Flax eggs or regular ones are added along with bananas.As with any baked good, baking powder and soda are also tossed in  for lift and body. Peanut butter gives the bars a silky texture . Some home bakers put coconut oil in their bars to grve the bars a flakiness,It's a butter or margerine substitute. Add ins are encouraged. You can try dark chocolate chip or dried cranberries like "Craisins" for more color and flavor.  For more nutrition , try a half cup of pitted and chopped dates or raisins.Even though  it's not baked museli can still be made at home. it';s a nice change up from some of the store bought kind and better for the kids than all those high in sugar commerical cereals.Muesli starts with grains of any kind. You can use anything from rolled oats to quinoa flakes to millet puffs. Then it's adding dried seeds and dried fruits.agains there's a wide range to choose from. Try a combo of craiosns and pistachios or dried cheries and almonds.

Home baked and homemmade breakfast treats are just that - treats. They not only delicious but a great healthy bite. Make muffins or bars or whip of batch of muesli for a great way to start the day.


Saturday, October 15, 2022

Fall's Other Stars of The Harvest

 This may be the season of apples and pumpkins but there are other stars coming out ofthose autumn patches.There's broccoli , cauliflower,and pears to name a few. They're great as main, sides , and desserts. Try them as a nice change up form those Macintoshes and gourds.

Broccoli is a versatile veggie.It can be served hot or cold. A great side is steamed broccoli with melted butter and just a sprinkle of sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Many like it Oriental style, steamed with ginger and  sesame oil. Of course it can also be cooked with chicken or beef , flavored with soy sauce. Serve this on a bed of rice for a hearty and delicious quick meal. One of the best recipes with broccoli is broccoli salad. You may think this is a summer dish but's it's a refreshing side all year long.It's steaming the veggie in the microwave first and then dressing it. Use just olive oil and red wine vinegar along with dashes of garlic powder, sealt salt and freshly ground pepper.  You can add chopped onion for more flavor. Cauliflower , like broccoli is also versatile. Both veggies can be made into tasty homemade soups. Cauliflower soup is the perfect chill chaser and can be frozen for future use. Breaded and air fried cauliflower is a real treat and the perfect game day nibble. It's good on its' own but also served with ranch dressing.

The season has always been all about apples yet there's another fruit that's just as sweet and high in nutrition. Pears!!!! Bartlett, Clap Favorite and Orca are the main autumn ones. Bartlett's are the most popular anf have a love mild candy like flavor. A great dessert is a harvest pear crisp. This is six cups of cored and sliced bartlett pears that have been tossed with lemon juice and coated with a mix of cornstarch, sugar and cinnamon .This is well coated and then covered with a dry dough made up of flour, ,butter and more cinnamon. A mix of chopped walnuts and oats  are then sprinkled on top as a kind of streusel.It's baked for forty minutes at 375 degrees Farenheit. Serve with fresh cream or vanilla ice cream.Orca pears which are a fall favorite in the Pacific Northwest are great for canning.They're cooked in a sugar solution and then canned. Of course you can make pear jams and even syrups with them. Clapp pears are good for baking and what better than a pear cake for a nice autumnal dessert.  You could even bake a layer cake and fill it with pear compote.

Don;t forget thare are other harvest gems that are perfect for any meal or dessert. Give broccoli, cauliflower and pears  a try this season. They're tasty and nutritious, the perfect fall produce.

Friday, October 14, 2022

Snacks For Dinner

 Sometimes a regular meal can be boring. It's the same old meat loaf or roast chicken. How can you liven up dinner or even a weekend lunch? Serve snacks.it's a fun way to add zing to the table.

I't;s not so much as giving the family a bowl of pretzels or chips to nosh on. It's taking those appetizers and bites you see at restaurants and recreating your version of them.Pne of the most popular are loaded nachos. There are so many different variations of this, from the hearty brickyer's version that's rife with bacon and chorizo and lighter versions, that have sliced veggies scattered over them. The best version is one that your family likes.If they are bing on beans then go heavy on them. If they like a meat lover's version add more ground beef or shredded chicken. If they're vegan, then go with soy crumbles and non diary cheeses like Miyoko's . Sauces can be added before cooking or they can be added afterwards.  You can also make your own tortilla chips by frying or baking them. The crisp chips can be made into a Mexican pizza, now being served at Taco Bell. This is a fun sandwich of crispy tortillas with a layer of refried beans, meat and tomatoes. Again you can make these to suit your familes tastes as well.

Pretzels are the ultimate snack. Now imagine them as the ultimate snack dinner.Buy the big Bavarian ones (your freezer section has them). After they've been baked , slice and serve with warmed cheese and sliced bratwurst. You can also turn it into a fun Baviarian influenced grilled cheese by adding sauerkraut and sliced Black Forest ham. Another fun and cheesy dish , epsecially for a weekend is fondue.  The classic Swiss recipe has Emmenthaler  and Gruyere cheeses grated and cooked in a fondue pot with garlic, kirsch, cornstarch and dry white wine. Boiled potatoes can be dipped into it but the real stars are the crusty chunks of French bread. It may look like a sophisticated snack but the kids will get a kick out of it too.The fondue pot can also be used for that Piedmontese treat bagna cauda. This requires the fondue pot but it's cooking anchovies in a sauce of garlic, butter and olive oil. Stir unti there's a smooth looking sauce. Savoy cabbage pieces are usually dipped into it but you cna also partially broiled London Broil and finsh up with chunks of Italian bread.

Forget the ordinary. Serve snacks tonight for dinner. Enjoy them and the fun they bring.

Thursday, October 13, 2022

A Sip Of Peru Chicha Morada

 Th e colorful and interesting countyr of Peru is mostly known for its' ceviche, beef and chicken recipes. Yet there's a drink Peruvians cannot live without. It's a homeade brew and it's becoming everyone beverage of choice.

Regular contributor Christina Morales wrote about chicha morada in yesterday's New York Times Food section. It's like what sweet tea to Southerners. Chiccha morada is a homemade brew made of corn simmered with pineapples, limes and apples. Warm spices such as cinnamon and clover are then added the the brew is cooled overnight. The result is a flavorful deep purple colored fruit drink. Chef Erik Ramirez , owner and partner of LLama Inn in Williamsburg " Brooklyn calls it "Christmas on the beach". The spices are warming even though it's as refreshing as any lemon or orange ade. He simmers the drink for forty five minutes and then adds sugar and a squeeze of lime. The drink cna also be used in cocktails savory dishes  and desserts too. His most popular drink has a chicha morada base.Many Peruvian chefs have used it in one of their most famous cocktail, a pisco sour, a frothy mix of egg white, limes, pisco, a type of brandy and sugar.

The drink's origins are preColombian according to University of Texas sociologist Nino Bariola. there is evidence that it was served in precolonial times however it became veyr popular in the Nineteenth CenturyWriters and travellers of the time mentioned it.It was a part of everyday lives and even depicted in the paintings of artist Pancho Fierro. At that time people were also enjoying the drink's cousin mazamorra korada, especially in the capital city LIma. The last is a pudding version of chicha morada , thickened with potato flour. Both were featured in cookbooks in the 1960;s and also figure heavily in Peruvian festivals honoring the Senor delas Milagros, the Lord of Miracles held through out October. It's now being made into cady and fruit powders. Chef Jose Luis Chavez of Manhattan's Mission Ceviche uses the drink for a short rib glaze and has been experimenting with it and octopus. he plans on creating a dessert with it , in the shape of an ear of corn.

Chica morada may be the next big thing. It's a tasty drink that can be used in a number of dishes. The drink represents the best of Peru's harvest.