Thursday, November 21, 2019

A Military Holiday

Our service people deal with everything , from mortars to snipers. Imagine spending a Thanksgiving with the threat of attack looming over every bite. Yet that's what our almost every branch of our military has gone through for centuries. The upcoming holiday is no different.

Thanksgiving on duty was the main article in yesterday's New York Times Food section. C.J. Chivers, a Times investigative reporter and Pulitzer prize winner , wrote about how our armed services celebrate. There are also stories from former and current military members, some funny , most poignant and unsettling. As per Mr. Chivers, who writes regularly on the Afghan Conflict, the US has spent nineteen years fighting the war on terrorism with a few million American service members celebrating away from home and family. Earlier in the year, The Times contacted veterans about their experiences and asked for pictures too. Thanksgivings were varied, depending on the base. Troops at midsized bases found that the military or their peers put out traditional spreads.Full turkey dinners were saved at one base thanks with the help of the U.S.N.S.  GySgt. Fred W. Stockham's merchant mariners. Ethan Frisch , an aid worker for Aga Khan Foundation who worked on rural infrastructure in Afghanistan bought two scrawny turkeys and butchered them himself. He flavored them with local wild cumin and coriander seeds.

The problem with a holiday  - any holiday in a war zone - is that the wars don't stop. (although there was the famed Christmas Truce of 1914 where British  and French troops had a temporary truce with the German army). Turkey and phone calls can only go so far. They're basically band aids plastered over an always bleeding wound.Many enlisted know this. One, Sgt Michelle Estabrook Kuranishi did her best to cobble together a holiday meal with a fellow Marine. They managed to put together a traditional dinner, thanks to scrounging through  enough care packages to acquire pumpkin filling for pies and enough stuffing to feed their group. Finally she could briefly forget the recently tragic past where the two peers she had trained were killed in Ramadi in central Iraq.  This holiday meal included her partner, Master Sgt. Brett Angus who was tall ,lanky and enjoyed a good prank, esp
ecially when it came to Sgt. Estabrook Kuranishi. The happiness, if it could be called that was short lived. The next day Master. Sgt, Angus was killed when he investigated their bomb detecting robot that had been blown up. Now Thanksgiving has a resonance  for her, one shared with those who have survived their tours of duty. The fact that she is still alive fourteen years later has made her grateful for the life that was spared.

War is hell.  A holiday spent in a war zone even more so. We can't make it better for our military where they're stationed. We sure as hell can make it better for them when they return.


Wednesday, November 20, 2019

Your Secret Weapon Celery

It's as common as bread for stuffing and drippings for gravy. Yet we never give it its' due despite it' being one of the supports of holiday cooking. What is this power ingredient? Celery.

It was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Food section. Alexa Weibel, the section's senior staff editor, wrote about this wonderkind veggie. Celery is good on its' own, especially as a palate cleanser. It's even better lending its' flavor to everything from the bird itself to stuffing.The stalks go in and out of favor. Celery entered the American cooking scene during the late 19th and early 20th Century. Raw stalks were arranged in crystal vases made specifically for showing them off, There were even ornate serving sets deemed incomplete without the vases. Soon they were being served in elegant little side dishes. They were also being served on trains and train stations thanks to train boys and messengers. It was the star of Good Housekeeping's Thanksgiving 1900's issue where there were recipes for celery soup and even blended with mashed potatoes, served with peanut butter on brown bread. We have  Dutch immigrants to thank for bringing the vegetable into the public eye. They started farming it in Kalamazoo, Michigan in 1847 which was then nicknamed Celery City.  Harry S. Truman put the stalk on the White House cafeteria menu. In recent years , however, it's been dismissed as a diet food, a kids; snack and Bloody Mary garnish.

That's all about to change. Celery is now a cause celebe thanks to Kim Kardashian juicing it. One of the best aspects is that it's a team player. It works well with other and even stronger flavors, yet imparts its' own citrus-y vegetal taste.Ms. Weibel gives us some interesting recipes that work not just for Thanksgiving but also for Sunday dinners too. Try the celery-leek soup with potato and parsley. This is a take on vichysoisse , with a pound of celery being the star. Dry white wine, thyme and garlic also elevate it as do parsley and bay leaves. It's the perfect way to being your Thanksgiving meal. There is also braised celery with thyme and white wine. The celery is cut into segments and deribbed to make it tender It's first boiled in salted water and then transfer to a glass baking dish.  The pieces are then layered  and again dry white wine is  added to flavor it. Herbes de Provence and peppercorns along with bay leaves, thyme  and  garlic add more complexity.For something refreshing and different there is a celery salad chock full of apples, blue cheese and almonds. The vinaigrette has coarse mustard leaves and sugar added for a completely unusual vibe.

Use celery in your Thanksgiving and other holiday recipes. It is perfect in hot and cold dishes. Try it and rediscover its' bright taste and color.

Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Can You Handle Vegan Cooking

Next week is Thanksgiving and with that the stress of catering to everyone's dietary needs. One of the most flummoxing  - at first - is cooking vegetarian or vegan for those herbivores in your life. It can be a bit of a shock - especially when you try to recreate meaty main courses.

To begin with know the difference between veganism and vegetarianism. Vegans eschew all meats and their dairy byproducts. That means all meats and fish are taboo but also cow's milk, butter any and all kinds of cheeses. That also means no eggs either which can ruin your making any holiday cake or custard along with sweet breads. Vegetarians are a bit more lenient.There are the lacto kind that do allow themselves milk, cheese and yogurt. Some also include butter too. The ovo-vegetarians will not reject any eggs or foods that have them.  The most common type are the lacto-vegetarians which allow both dairy and eggs - and that makes cooking and baking for them a bit easier. There's also the pescatarian whose diet only allows fish and the pollotarian who can eat any fowl. The flexitarian swings back and forth with his or her beliefs. They many only eat meat on special occasions such as holidays.These are not considered real vegetarians like the hard core ones. They also will not make Thanksgiving, Christmas or New Year's a headache for you. The others will, which means special care when shopping and cooking. Luckily you can find substitutes that will facilitate cooking and baking.

One of the most eye opening is the main course. Tofurky will not have the rich gamy taste of a real turkey and neither will the gravy have the same flavor as the its' real counterpart.. How do you make it palatable.?There is a recipe online that suggests marinating it in vegan beer (Budweiser can be used). Another - and maybe better idea is using the Gardein brand. It and its' accompanying gravy tastes the most like turkey and gravy. The only downside is that there are only four slices and two gravy packets per package. It's fine for two vegans but forget a group. Then there's cooking it which is extra work if you're also making a turkey. Best bet is get out the air fryer which nicely cooks and even crisps the slices. Another headache is cooking for pescatarians. What could work for them? Salmon or halibut with a sheet pan of  veggies. A hearty bouillabaisse with crusty baguettes could also be made. This is a very labor intensive. Not only does the stew have to be made but the accompanying rouille which is the sauce added to every bowl. One of the hardest aspects of vegan meals is baking. Imagine not adding milk, butter and eggs, essential for every cake and cookie recipe. Nut and soy milks do come in handy - as do vegan butters. You can sub in coconut oil for as well and it also works well in creating a faux buttercream. Applesauce also works too , just don't get the chunky kind. There are also egg substitutes as well as aquafaba for creating meringues and Pavlovas. Just bake tester ones first to see if everything gels. It's a lot of work but worth it. If not, just serve fruit.


Can you handle vegan cooking and baking? It's different and will put your tried a true recipes on their heads. Going meatless is noble. Cooking and baking without animal products is daunting. Be sure you're ready for it.


Monday, November 18, 2019

A Foodie Holiday Away

Sometimes the holidays call for a vacation. There's something freeing about spending a day at a hotel buffet and then hitting the slopes or the shops. You don't have to cook and then serve. You just pick what you want and then get served. Now that's the perfect Thanksgiving or Christmas.

 It pays to stay in the States considering Thanksgiving isn't an international holiday. There are enough places to travel to to enjoy not just the holiday but the sites too. Of course the gem of any American city for Thanksgiving is New York City. It's where you can see the Macy's Day Parade and then go wild at a sumptuous holiday dinner. If you have the money head over to Dirty French in So Ho. It' is a pricey $98  for a three course prix-fixe meal. You'll enjoy traditional fare but with a side of pate and a savory millefeulle. For an Italian twist on the holiday  head to the classy Gran Tivoli on Broom Street  in Greenwich Village where there's roast turkey and pork belly served. The next day is Black Friday.  Go crazy shopping at Macy's and the new seven story Nordstroms. Both are chock full of restaurants and cafes to sustain you during a busy shopping day. Want quiet and quaint? Then head up to New England, like Snowvillage Inn in Eaton, New Hampshire. near the White Mountain National Forest. You can ski, sit by the fire and enjoy good , old fashioned meal of turkey and stuffing. For a really old,  - four hundred years old, in fact, go to the Plimoth Plantation in Plymouth  to try a dish of turkey sauced and a sallet  along with a sweet pudding of Native corn and  a pottage of cabbage, leeks and soup.

Christmas can be spent anywhere. Europe is the obvious choice. It's where most of our traditions come from. Many of the bigger cities have Christmas markets where you can buy all sorts of gifts and sample delicious foods. Head to Germany , the birthplace of the holiday. Munich has the Christmas mart where you can taste Kletznbrot, a bread loaded with nuts fruit and honey and Fatschnkindl - a pastry shaped like the Baby Jesus in His manger. Of course there's beer and roast pork too - the perfect holiday meal. Paris is another city , famed for its' holiday shopping and outdoor markets. Browse stalls while you sip a cup of French onion soup or nibble on sausages. Rome has the Piazza Navona Christmas mart where you can sip mulled wine and munch on an Italian holiday classic  - roasted chestnuts. Spend Christmas Eve in Vatican City where you can also dine at many restaurants and cafes that feature everything from classic pasta to a variety of pizzas. Of course there is London, where there are dozens of Christmas marts. Some have apres ski themes with hot toddies where you can also munch on candied pecans and a cone of candy floss - cotton candy. This is the city that gave us A Christmas Carol and that giant turkey for roasting. Most of the hotels in the city are offering traditional British fare such as a turkey with the trimmings followed by the lit Christmas pudding.

Treat yourself to a holiday away from your kitchen. There is literally a buffet of cities and towns to visit for good food and fun. Enjoy the time away. Treat yourself to this travel present.

Saturday, November 16, 2019

Holiday Dinners Light

Holidays meals, especially Thanksgiving and Christmas can be lavish and sumptuous affairs with enough food to feed an army. Yet what happens when there's only three or four for dinner? Or two? A lavish meal can seem wasteful. Then it's time for holiday meal light.

A whole turkey would be too much for three or four people. Even one as tiny as an eight pound one can be too much and can lead to a week of leftovers.  Think one half turkey breast which is three pounds and will satisfy diners nicely.  Cooking time is also cut in half - anywhere from forty-five minutes to an hour as opposed to the two or three hours for the entire bird. For Christmas you could roast a half ham or even ham steaks if you have one or two people over. Many home chefs love a standing rib roast for a holiday meal yet it would be like a huge feast for just four people. A London broil would be better . You can still serve it with gravy  - and even better Yorkshire pudding to sop up the juices.It'll also be good the day after in sandwiches or on toast with hot gravy. Seafood lovers always want a briny buffet for their Christmas Day or New Year's Eve dinners. You can still have this even if it's just the two of you. Think the smallest one  such as a one pounder.It's an easy boil or cook and quite filling.  You'll only need one side really if you serve it. Open the meal with a small sized ring of shrimp cocktail that you can easily buy at your fish market or even grocery store.

One thing about having an intimate holiday dinner is that you don't have to go crazy with the sides. Mash potatoes can still be served. You'll only need about a pound and a half of Yukon Golds to create a small pot. Another idea is having baked ones which is a nice change up from mashed. Add small bowls of different toppings - such as melted butter, sour cream, shredded cheddar and bacon along with chive and different spices. You can also do the same with sweet potatoes. If you're mashing them , then use only two or two and a half. If it's individual ones , have little ramekins of melted butter along with cinnamon sugar to sprinkle on. Of course the holiday meal would be nothing without stuffing. You could go the easy route and use Stovetop Stuffing which is great for a dinner party of four. A regular stuffing could be made but be prepared for a lot of it to be left over (great if you're planning on creating take home parcels). As for green sides,  buy bags of Brussels sprouts and broccoli. These steam bags provide enough for three to four people. They're perfect - easy to cook and no cleanup along with no to little leftovers. They can also be served hot or cold as a fun non-traditional salad.

A small holiday dinner can still be lavish in taste.It's just buying and cooking smaller version of the main course and halving the sides. It just the right amount of food for the right amount of people.

Friday, November 15, 2019

Host Gifts Make Or Buy

The holidays are fast upon us and that means invitations to a variety of dinners and lunches. It is obligatory to bring something - but what? Do you go all out and create a homemade or buy something at a specialty shop or wine store? Each have a huge variety to choose from.

Thanksgiving is the time for such invitations. Many guests feel obligated to bring a home baked pie. You can do this. Everyone loves a slice of something whipped up in the kitchen. Just keep in mind that all pies do require certain levels of work. Another thought is do you bring the most popular flavor and risk it be the second or third pumpkin or apple pie given.You could try that Southern classic - pecan pie. Unlike the other two this can be varied to include bourbon or dark chocolate in the recipe. It's a nice change up from the traditional recipe. Homemade candy is not only fun to give but fun to make too. The most popular given for the holidays is fudge. This is a simple make, with semisweet chocolate chips, condensed milk and butter. You can add any kind of nuts or marshmallows along with toasted coconuts and dried sour cherries for some tasty varieties. savory gifts are also a nice thank you. Think a jar of homemade salsa with a variety of different tomatoes and peppers for color. Another fun thank you gift is a basket full of popcorn spices. This is just mixing different dried spices into appealing sweet and savory mixes that can be sprinkled on popped corn. The  hand blended spices can also be used in baking and flavoring main and side dishes too.

If all this is too much for you then go the store or internet route. Most go for a good wine. Appropriate ones for Turkey Day are the red, fruity pinot noir, and a white Reisling whose sweetness is the perfect foil for a savory bird and gravy. Champagne is another fun bring, with it starting or ending a meal. This is also perfect if the family is celebrating an important event like a raise, new job or engagement. A more sophisticated present would be an aged brandy, excellent for afters. Another idea is bringing dessert.  Yes, you could go with pies but what about platters  of mini cupcakes or brownie cups which can be fun mini bites after a big meal. A nice tray of bakery made butter cookies will not go amiss either. Make sure there are plenty of chocolate dipped ones for chocoholics and kids. Any host would appreciate liqueur filled chocolates.  A box of brandy beans is a nice end to any meal, especially served with espresso. You could also gift hosts with the festive triangular container of the always popular Ferraro Roche. Want to go savory? Then think of flavored oils and vinegars. Williams-Sonoma have a wide array. Some of the oils are infused with basil or roasted garlic while the vinegars are a wide array of different balsamics and lemon.

You do have to bring a gift for your hosts. it could be home made or store bought. If you have time then put your talents to work. If not, no one will turn away a well made food gift. It's your decision.It's your choice.

Thursday, November 14, 2019

A Kurdish Twist On Tailgating

Tailgating is as American as apple pie and barbecue. Yet imagine if there was a spin to it. There is  - in Nashville where a thriving Kurdish community. The Kurds have not only brought their favorite national dishes to this all American past time but their passion as well.

Priya Krishna, a regular contributor to The New York Times and author of Indian-ish :Recipes and Antics From a Modern American Family, wrote about these Tennessee Titan fans. in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Nashville is home to 15,000 displaced Kurds, one of the largest Kurdish populations in the United States. Many have sad and bloody  memories of their war destroyed homeland, Kurdistan, a semiautonomous region of the Middle East. Their fierce devotion is a salve, perhaps, for all the bloodshed and destruction they've witnessed back in Syria.  They've fallen in love with the Titans, having an intense love of them. With that love comes the usual love of all things football - especially tailgating. There are hamburgers and hotdogs, cooked on grills alongside of biryanis. Fans much on the spicy versions of Cheetos, Funyuns and Pringles in such flavors as Extra Hot Chili and Lime. What's missing is the usual coolers of beer. The Kurds are Muslim which means no alcohol. The burgers and biryanis are washed down with orange soda and pouches of Kool-Aid.

American tailgaters can try some of the Kurdish recipes (there's a lot on the web). Kurdish style biryani starts off with pan fried chicken but you could easily skewer and grill it. It's served over a rice flavored with cardamon, ginger, nutmeg and ginger. Carrots, peas and potatoes are added. You could also add tomatoes too. The Kurds love stuffed grape leaves and these are always a treat to any gathering. You can buy them already made but they're also good homemade too. The leaves do have to be cooked with lemon juice and boiled water but it only takes three minutes. The filling can vary. You can add meat or not , along with raisins and various spices. Add slices of cabbage for a real Kurdish dish.  You can cook them in a pot filled with water or in an Insta-pot or crockpot for ease (and if you think you can't bring a crockpot to a tailgating party think again. Buy the Crockpot Two quart hookup at Kohl's that you can bring anywhere, from a tailgating party to a camping trip.) . The Kurds also make kutilk, eye shaped fritters , stuffed with chicken and crusted with rice. Serve it with a refreshing cucumber and tomato salad for a different spin.

The Tennessee Titans have the best cheering squad - the Nashville Kurdish community. They not only bring the love but all a wide array of delicious dishes. They are devoted to their team and bring a delicious spin to the traditional tailgating party.