Thursday, January 24, 2019

Fish And Couscous

What do you do about midweek cooking. It doesn;t have the exciting ring of weekend dinner parties with friends.There's none of the breezy casualness of a Friday take out or quick bake pizza. The answer is liven it up by one classic yet literally eye opening recipe and a traditional one with an ingredient popular in another country.

Thank Melissa Clark and David Tanis for their takes on fish and couscous respectively in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Ms/ Clark goes old school with cooking red snapper with its' head intact. This may cause some squeamishness in some, yet it is popular in European and Asian cooking.  Her column, A Good Appetite is an argument about using the entire body because it leads to a more flavorful meal. It also makes it impossible to overcook it  along with drying out the meat. Many home chefs find it difficult to cut . Ms. Clark suggests diners go at the fish from one side, namely the belly. All that will be left are the head , spine and tail ,looking like a cartoon cat devoured it.. Also to make it more desirable is the glaze. It's combining three citrus fruits, lemon, lime, and orange with tamari  and butter  The fruit is placed inside the fish cavity, infusing it with a tropical , tart flavor and more lime juice is added for the sauce. Ms. Clark suggests serving it with cilantro sprigs but you can try any green as a light salad on the side.

If you would rather go the vegetarian route,then the recipe from David Tanis' A City Kitchen. His is a take on the classic Middle Eastern dish, updating it with feta. It's the perfect meal for a cold day. Pearl couscous,more  similar to pasta than semolina, is cooked with the always fun grape  tomatoes and chickpeas. The last gives this vegan dish a boost of protein while the tomatoes add color and flavor. The addition of balsamic vinegar , garlic and scallions give the tomatoes a savory and sweet taste. Updating it with feta gives the dish a creaminess and tang.The last depends on what kind you buy. The Greek tends to be the saltiest and most intense in flavor.. If you want to go milder, Mr , Tanis suggests trying feta from France or Bulgaria. Taste it first , before you add it to the pan. If' its' too salty then just give it a quick rinse to rid it of the salinity. There's also cumin and lemon zest for more of a Middle Eastern vibe. It can be topped with a drizzle of olive oil and balsamic vinegar along with more herbs and a dusting of Parmesan cheese.

Whatever one you choose, they're great for livening up a weekday meal. Try a glazed snapper for a warm sunny flavor. For a warm cozy  and exotic dish, whip up a bowl of vegan couscous. Both add zing to meal time.

Wednesday, January 23, 2019

The Perfect Pantry

What makes a pantry perfect? By having   the necessary ingredients on hand. Surprisingly stocking one seems to be a lost art. Luckily there is a how to for both the novice and experienced home chef.

Julia Moskin tackled my favorite subject in today's New York Times Food section. A well stocked pantry is a must.As Ms Moskin writes a truly functional pantry is the key to more and better cooking. The contents have to fit the home chef's real world cooking style and skills.A traditional English and American pantry just had dry ingredients like flour, sugar and bread. These were stored well away from the heat of the stove or ovens. There was always a larder for cured meats and the foods preserved in it and a buttery for cider, beer and wine barrels called butts. Now all of these - even the alcohol can be stored in a pantry.The list has been expanded to include such modern samples like lemons and yogurt which can be stored in a modern pantry - the refrigerator. Keep in mind what Ms Moskin has is not a prescription but a proposal. What goes into your pantry is up to you but it is good to have a jumping off point.

The list is divided into three categories :essential, expanded and expert. It is definitely a keeper guide, especially for those just starting out in the kitchen. The essential list contains simple oils like olive and canola and the three vinegars. For produce make sure there is garlic, onions and potatoes. The freezer should be filled with veggies, meat and berries. The expanded list has more complex oils like coconut and sesame. Sherry is added too.The sauces run the gamut from hoisin sauce to anchovy paste and harissa. The spices have become more exotic, growing from peppercorns and red pepper flakes to garam masala and Chinese five spice. The grains and starches include panko crumbs and rice noodles. The expert is for the worldlier chef. The oil variety has been expanded to walnut and avocado along with fancier vinegars like tarragon. The dairy selection includes ghee, creme fraiche and aged cheeses such as Gruyere and blue cheese. Lamb sausages,merguez and edamame are for the freezer and baking has everything from bread flour to sparkling sugars.

A well stocked pantry is a chef's best friend. No matter where you stand experience wise you should have ingredients at hand. It makes for better cooking and eating.

Tuesday, January 22, 2019

Life With The Air Fryer

I have to admit that I didn't know what to do with the Power Air Fryer I received for Christmas.My first thought was it's too big and  I'll use it as much as I will that cookie press I bought. Boy, was I wrong!

It turns out this gadget is handy and sometimes better than the oven.I was skeptical at first, wondering if I was going to use it or would it just collect dust. . The air fryer  was what my kitchen was missing. I definitely warmed up to this huge  pod, a little bigger than a Keurig coffee maker.In actuality, it's just a smidge larger than my crockpot and fits quite nicely on my kitchen counter. Another plus is that it has a timer that beeps when the food is done or needs to be turned. To be honest I use it more than my oven now.There's no need to  empty it of the pots pans, and cookie sheets that are conveniently stored inside of my stove. . It is a snap to clean - unlike the other.
 The two "frying " baskets are just emptied of crumbs (read eaten - they're the most delicious part) and then washed in just warm soapy water. To be honest, all the foods that require oven cooking taste better somehow in this amazing machine.It may be the hot air that encircles each piece. I've noticed that Gardein's tofu chicken nuggets were much tastier and crunchier, without any grease. The Power Air Fryer turned Golden"s veggie pancakes into extraordinary golden discs, perfectly cooked with a crispy french fry like exterior.

Having it has expanded the cooking experience. I have air fried Stop & Shop's spring rolls in it. They turned out to be golden without the usual oily after taste.I've bought spanokopita , the small Greek spinach pies that can be cooked in the fryer. I do want to try homemade potato pancakes as well. There is a recipe book with it, that features the usual and not  so usual. It shows how to properly frozen onion rings and fries, along with homemade mozzarella sticks. There's also the intriguing mac and cheeses, a perfect recipe for left over baked macaroni,What's surprising is that the book - more of a pamphlet really - has recipes for beef empanadas and blooming onions.  The next model up has accessories like baking pans and you can bake anything in it.There is even a web site with all recipes air fryer, from shortbread (!) to lamb chops.The recipe for air fried breaded mushrooms look interesting and would even make a good main course. I definitely want to try the banana chips and the air fryer tofu, made crispy with brown rice flour.

The Power Air Fryer is here to stay. I really love this machine.It's versatile and a good alternative to the oven.There's so much to do with it - so much to make.

Monday, January 21, 2019

Thermos STAT

The temps are Arctic frigid. You're wearing what seems to be five layers of clothing and you're still shivering. It's time to bring the heat - whether temperature wise or taste. It'll keep winter's icy chill at bay - hopefully.

One thing is certain during this frigid days  a hot meal is everything.We need fortification for those frosty drives to school and work. Ditch the boxed cereal. Think piping hot oatmeal or farina with a hot tea or hot coffee to wash it down. This is the time for a calories be damned breakfast of eggs, bacon and toast.If you still feel guilty, then go with poached eggs, they're not fried just boiled accompanying soy bacon. Sub in whole wheat or even pita for regular white bread. As long's as it's toasty and can keep you full and warm. Another hearty idea is a breakfast strata. This casserole type dish combines what we love about the first meal and the density of a dinner.If you've never made one before then go for the simplest recipe. The night before layer thick slices of white or whole wheat bread in a greased square baking dish. Beat four eggs and half a cup of milk along with oregano or thyme, Refrigerate overnight. The next morning preheat oven to 350, pop the strata into it Bake for half an hour and then sprinkled on shredded cheddar and bake for five more minutes. Cheese should be melted and the strata nice and puffy, Serve with strong hot tea or coffee for a body warming breakfast.

Always have a hot drink in the car during this weather.As much as you need bottles of cold water in the summer, you need either tea , coffee or cocoa. You can have a thermos or stop in at your favorite coffee shop.You'll also feel more alert too. Definitely go for a hot lunch. If you're worried about diet, then stick with a hot , light soup and plain tea. You can also add fire  Try a dish with heat. One favorite is pasta arrabiata or angry pasta. This is the perfect dinner dish too,Most of the recipes for it call for a quarter of a teaspoon of hot pepper flakes, but if you want real fire, then add half a teaspoon. Chili is another perfect lunch  or dinner. You can even make extra to create an  office meal for yourself. A pinch of hot pepper can do the job unless you want to go into alarm territory. Then it's time to get out the jalapenos.As for drinks, a hot after dinner  tea is always good, but you can make chai and spice it up with cinnamon . Mexican hot cocoa is not only hot but can be fiery with the addition of pinch of red pepper powder. You can also add this to any chocolate cake, cookie and cupcake recipe along with chocolate frosting to give it some sweet heat.

This is the time to bundle up and fortify yourself against these freezing days. Dress warm. Eat hot. It's the best defense against frost and frostbite.

Saturday, January 19, 2019

Binge Faves

With snow and cold weather here , there's only one thing to do. Binge!!It's great to stay in all day and catch up with favorite shows and eating . What you binge on is up to you You can go healthy or decadent, that's up to you. Either way, just set out a bowl and grab the remote.

What would be a healthy binge? Veggies and fruit.,There;'s nothing as refreshing as a platter of bite size vegetables with some kind of dip.Some stores such as Acme and Stop ; Shop sell bowls of cut vegetables with dip. It's also easy to make your own. Go light with a tangy vinaigrette made with oil and lime juice instead of lemon.Add some cilantro and hot pepper for heat. You can also go for a creamy dressing. Mix tahini sauce  with lemon and a tiny bit of dark honey or chopped dates for an interesting dip. Tired of all the low calories. Then go full on healthy decadent with a homemade French dressing. It's combining  low calorie mayonnaise and ketchup with olive oil and apple cider vinegar. Longing for something crunchy? Get yourself an air fryer. This is a podlike mini oven that can crisp up fries and onion rings without all that oil. It's also good for cooking crunchy crispy  chicken tenders  and fish fillets, both the real deal and the soy kind. For those with a sweet tooth, try Crispy Green Crispy Fruit. These are  packets of air dried fruit  that are very low in calories but high in flavor and crunch. The apple  and pine apple pieces are the most addictive and are perfect for an afternoon of binge watching

Of course there is the decadent side of binging. You can make your own or order in sliders from White Castle.Have a side of fries with aoili mustard or go really calorie crazy with chili cheese one.You don't have to make your own spicy pot (although you're snowed in so why not)Open a can of
Hormels or Campbell's brand an zap it in the microwave.As for cheese, go for Kraft's Olde English. You can also buy Sargento's or Kraft's shredded cheddar mixes.Another fun binge food is pizza.Don't try to eat a whole twelve piece by yourself!That would be too bingeful!.Go with an individual pie.Stop & Shop sells single serve ones as does Red Baron. If you're not watching your weight, then finish with a hot fudge sundae. Of course there are chips and dip, but you can also splurge by making spinach dip. It's a pretty easy mix of sour cream, frozen or fresh chopped spinach and mayo. As for sweets, of course cookies. Get the Nestle or Pillsbury ready bake , bake ,cool and enjoy. Enjoy those with a soothing cup of tea or a liqueur spiked coffee.

If' it's a snowy day, stay in, Binge on your favorite programs and foods. Indulge yourself on this day off.

Friday, January 18, 2019

Your Blizzard Pantry Must Haves

Yet again there's blizzard coming to the East Coast, namely the New York City area.Unless you live in the sunny, summery Southern Hemisphere, this is snow season. That means one thing: a well stocked pantry  - and fridge.Be prepared for a  few days without the grocery store.

Grains are important in a winter pantry. Have boxes of favorite pastas on hand. These can be a main meal, or even go into soups . Also there's nothing like a hearty penne or spaghetti lunch or supper on a cold, snowy day. Rice is also a must have. It's good as a side but also can be incorporated as part of the main meal to give it more substance. Mix it with stew or even thin soups like tomato and minestrone.Barley and bulgur are also good to have in your winter pantry. Bulgur can also be used instead of oatmeal for breakfast as well.Oatmeal is another must along with farina. You can  get a box of the flavored packets or a canister of plain oatmeal  that can be used in baking bread and/or cookies.Should you also have flour? It will come in handy if you're planning on making pizza dough  or roux bases. A snowy day usually means baking so do have a bag of it along with other baking must haves such as baking powder and baking soda.As for the already baked stuff, it helps to have a loaf .Bread can be used in making sandwiches, grilled cheese and French toast.Grind it into crumbs for baked macaroni and cheese topping along with thickener for soups and breading veggies and meats.

Should you include canned meats in the mix? Yes! Canned tuna can be used for salads and casseroles along with that cold weather fave tuna melt. Get a few cans of tuna fish in olive oil. You can make a sunny salad Nicoise with it , a perfect meal to help imagine warmer climes.You may also want to stock up on the lower calorie salmon which is versatile to use in such hot dishes as croquettes and pasta sauce.Another must have is canned chicken which can easily be turned into chicken a la king. A winter pantry should have a small variety of canned vegetables too.You can also stock up on bags of frozen ones too. These can be made into sides but also salads if you have the odd craving for something cold. Corn can also be tossed into corn cakes and corn bread. Canned or frozen spinach can be turned into a dip for movie or football binging. Have a few cans of fruit too. You may want to finish a meal with a fruit cocktail or peaches as a side to pound or angel food cake. Dried fruit or fruit crisps are also good to stock up on. They're perfect low calories snacks when the boredom munchies hit.

Make sure your pantry is well stocked for the stormy,  snowy weather ahead. Have the basics. They'll go  along way when you can't make it to the grocery store.

Thursday, January 17, 2019

The Restaurant And The Sea

There's no doubt that locavore restaurants are affected by their surroundings. If the bounty is abundant , then the eateries thrive. If not, they have to become creative and look  to other locally sourced ingredients. It becomes an incredible task if the source is environmentally challenged.

This is the case of San Francisco eatery, Angler, which was the subject of Tejal Rao's Critic's Notebook in yesterday's New York Times Food section. she interviewed chef Joshua Skenes, who opened this local restaurant in the waterfront Embarcadero area of San Francisco. Chef Skenes is redefining  the San Francisco fish house, thanks to a tightly edited menu. He has pointed out  he isn't the only one in the area. Many seafood lovers are being redirected to lesser known but just as delicious seafood options.Why is this? Blame it on climate change and the ocean's temperature changing because of it.In a published study from just last week researchers found ocean temps had broken record highs in the last few years. This changes everything, from the water's acidity to  breeds of fish heading towards colder waters.This is happening all over , especially off the New York City coast. The Dungeness crab, that lives in Northern California waters, has been infected with domoic acid, a neurotoxin produced by ocean warmed algae.The levels are so high in the shellfish that there's a delay in catching them.

What's a seafood restaurant to do? Get creative  with other ocean bounty.It's not just chef Skenes who's exploring other catches from the sea but also chef James Syhabout of Commis in Oakland. The last serves seaweed rather than big ticket fish.Other eateries,like The Perennial ,owned by Karen
Lebowicz and Anthony Myint serves farmed sturgeon and trout, raised on vegan feed. As for Chef Skenes, he's getting into purple sea urchins at the Los Angeles branch of Angler as well as at the original. Purple sea urchins are multiplying at an eye opening rate, invading and decimating vital underwater kelp forests. There are enough of them to  satisfy customer's growing love of them. Their flavor is that of a sweet and salty custard when pureed and returned to their shells. Chef Skenes is also cooking petrale sole, that was once favored by Bay City locals. It's an ugly  flatfish with eyes on one side of its' head . That doesn't matter to him.He turns it into a filet of beauty, with almost jellied meat firmed up over a fire and lacquered with butter.  Jellyfish is also being served diced and raw with a dipping sauce.He also does amazing magic with a roasted beet and tuna tartare along with a radicchio with a dressing that sloppy and almost bloody looking. These dishes make diners forget about what's not on the menu, like the Dungeness crab.

Unfortunately, all seafood restaurants will be affected by climate change. Let's hope their chefs can become creative with everything the sea has to offer and not just favorites. This will definitely be the standard if we don't amend the damage we've done to our world.