Friday, January 18, 2019

Your Blizzard Pantry Must Haves

Yet again there's blizzard coming to the East Coast, namely the New York City area.Unless you live in the sunny, summery Southern Hemisphere, this is snow season. That means one thing: a well stocked pantry  - and fridge.Be prepared for a  few days without the grocery store.

Grains are important in a winter pantry. Have boxes of favorite pastas on hand. These can be a main meal, or even go into soups . Also there's nothing like a hearty penne or spaghetti lunch or supper on a cold, snowy day. Rice is also a must have. It's good as a side but also can be incorporated as part of the main meal to give it more substance. Mix it with stew or even thin soups like tomato and minestrone.Barley and bulgur are also good to have in your winter pantry. Bulgur can also be used instead of oatmeal for breakfast as well.Oatmeal is another must along with farina. You can  get a box of the flavored packets or a canister of plain oatmeal  that can be used in baking bread and/or cookies.Should you also have flour? It will come in handy if you're planning on making pizza dough  or roux bases. A snowy day usually means baking so do have a bag of it along with other baking must haves such as baking powder and baking soda.As for the already baked stuff, it helps to have a loaf .Bread can be used in making sandwiches, grilled cheese and French toast.Grind it into crumbs for baked macaroni and cheese topping along with thickener for soups and breading veggies and meats.

Should you include canned meats in the mix? Yes! Canned tuna can be used for salads and casseroles along with that cold weather fave tuna melt. Get a few cans of tuna fish in olive oil. You can make a sunny salad Nicoise with it , a perfect meal to help imagine warmer climes.You may also want to stock up on the lower calorie salmon which is versatile to use in such hot dishes as croquettes and pasta sauce.Another must have is canned chicken which can easily be turned into chicken a la king. A winter pantry should have a small variety of canned vegetables too.You can also stock up on bags of frozen ones too. These can be made into sides but also salads if you have the odd craving for something cold. Corn can also be tossed into corn cakes and corn bread. Canned or frozen spinach can be turned into a dip for movie or football binging. Have a few cans of fruit too. You may want to finish a meal with a fruit cocktail or peaches as a side to pound or angel food cake. Dried fruit or fruit crisps are also good to stock up on. They're perfect low calories snacks when the boredom munchies hit.

Make sure your pantry is well stocked for the stormy,  snowy weather ahead. Have the basics. They'll go  along way when you can't make it to the grocery store.

Thursday, January 17, 2019

The Restaurant And The Sea

There's no doubt that locavore restaurants are affected by their surroundings. If the bounty is abundant , then the eateries thrive. If not, they have to become creative and look  to other locally sourced ingredients. It becomes an incredible task if the source is environmentally challenged.

This is the case of San Francisco eatery, Angler, which was the subject of Tejal Rao's Critic's Notebook in yesterday's New York Times Food section. she interviewed chef Joshua Skenes, who opened this local restaurant in the waterfront Embarcadero area of San Francisco. Chef Skenes is redefining  the San Francisco fish house, thanks to a tightly edited menu. He has pointed out  he isn't the only one in the area. Many seafood lovers are being redirected to lesser known but just as delicious seafood options.Why is this? Blame it on climate change and the ocean's temperature changing because of it.In a published study from just last week researchers found ocean temps had broken record highs in the last few years. This changes everything, from the water's acidity to  breeds of fish heading towards colder waters.This is happening all over , especially off the New York City coast. The Dungeness crab, that lives in Northern California waters, has been infected with domoic acid, a neurotoxin produced by ocean warmed algae.The levels are so high in the shellfish that there's a delay in catching them.

What's a seafood restaurant to do? Get creative  with other ocean bounty.It's not just chef Skenes who's exploring other catches from the sea but also chef James Syhabout of Commis in Oakland. The last serves seaweed rather than big ticket fish.Other eateries,like The Perennial ,owned by Karen
Lebowicz and Anthony Myint serves farmed sturgeon and trout, raised on vegan feed. As for Chef Skenes, he's getting into purple sea urchins at the Los Angeles branch of Angler as well as at the original. Purple sea urchins are multiplying at an eye opening rate, invading and decimating vital underwater kelp forests. There are enough of them to  satisfy customer's growing love of them. Their flavor is that of a sweet and salty custard when pureed and returned to their shells. Chef Skenes is also cooking petrale sole, that was once favored by Bay City locals. It's an ugly  flatfish with eyes on one side of its' head . That doesn't matter to him.He turns it into a filet of beauty, with almost jellied meat firmed up over a fire and lacquered with butter.  Jellyfish is also being served diced and raw with a dipping sauce.He also does amazing magic with a roasted beet and tuna tartare along with a radicchio with a dressing that sloppy and almost bloody looking. These dishes make diners forget about what's not on the menu, like the Dungeness crab.

Unfortunately, all seafood restaurants will be affected by climate change. Let's hope their chefs can become creative with everything the sea has to offer and not just favorites. This will definitely be the standard if we don't amend the damage we've done to our world.


Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Giving Old Spice Some Spice

One of the most needed artillery in any home chef's arsenal is a well stocked spice rack.These little bottles of flavor and fire, sweet and savory give oomph to even the simplest of dishes. Yet do you know when to toss them once they lose their spice? What do you do with all those unused bottles?

That's the question posed and answered by Jennifer Steinhauser in today's New York Times Food section. Ms. Steinhauer, who writes both about food and politics for The Times has explored a kitchen's most used area - the spice rack. We all have a plethora of them in our racks or cabinets (some of us more than others) and they can sit there for years.What she does recommend is pouring all your remaining spices into individual bottles of the same size (don't mix them). Create labels for them with painter's tape and a Sharpie.However here's a short guide  to let you know when to toss and when to keep. Ground spices such as cinnamon,curry cumin and nit meg should be thrown out after two or three years.Whole spices like cinnamon sticks and cloves can last longer between four and five years. The same goes for whole peppercorns. Dried ground herbs such as parsley, basil and oregano are only good for three to four years.

What do you do with all those spices? Ms. Sullivan suggests making a curry from Indian chef and cookbook author, Meera Sodha's Made In India: Recipes From An Indian Family Kitchen. It's a crunchy fun mix of cauliflower, cashews,peas and coconuts. The spices used are coriander , cumin and chili powder along with garam masala. There's also tomato paste and garlic along with green chile for fire.It's a great way of using these spices. The same can be said for turmeric which is also great in any curry. For sumac, the base in za'atar, she received inspiration from Cathy Barrow's latest book Pie Squared: Irresistably Easy Sweet and Savory Slab Pies. It's a sumac scented eggplant slab pie however Ms. Steinhauser nixed the dough and added the sumac to the eggplant.It's then baking it and simmering the cubes with tomatoes and chickpeas. Pomegranate molasses is used for a bit of sweetening. All spice racks have the herbes de Provence and Ms. Steinhauser used hers to season chicken breasts. along with salt and pepper. This recipe is a great way to use up rosemary, thyme and sage.

This is the perfect time to re evaluate your spice rack. Use up what you have in these recipes or others. Just don't let them sit there.




Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Can Hearty And Healthy Coexist?

Can a hearty winter dish be also healthy? is a plate full of sauce not only good tasting but good for you? There are cold weather recipes that are both filling but light.

It's not January with out stew. Who doesn't love a bowl swimming with gravy, veggies and some kind of protein?The only problem is that it can be rich with calories and fat. A safer, yet just as satisfying dish is a vegan stew. Try one that employs traditional winter root vegetables such as turnips and parsnips.Onions, carrots and potatoes round it out and give it a backbone.You don't need meat for flavor. Add a dash of cumin or turmeric instead Instead of heavy dumplings serve with brown rice.What's also great about this stew is that it translates very well into second day leftovers.Bean stew is another hearty and healthy chill chaser.Mix white beans  or cannellini with tomatoes along with white wine and olive oil. Season with both thyme and sage to give it some oomph.This dish might be even better with crusty hunks of Italian bread but go light with the Northern Italian grissini which are between only fourteen and twenty-one calories a breadstick.

Another hearty winter dish is pasta. Who wouldn't want a bowl swimming with spaghetti or gemelli, along with meatballs?. The last can be made with low calorie mushrooms or beans and have the same spicy flavor as the real thing.Not surprisingly pasta can be low calorie Instead of the usual whole grain wheat , think ancient grains such as quinoa and brown rice. These can be found in all forms including lasagna noodles.Even this calorie rich casserole can be made lighter.it can be made with quinoa and zucchini slices standing in for the pasta.Instead of ground beef and hard boiled eggs.Add red and green peppers along with spinach for color.You can also use cauliflower instead of the quinoa.Pizza  is another hearty dish, surprisingly and we all love one with a thick , yeasty crust , and topped with an overload of meat and cheese. Despite it being a great chill chaser it is loaded with calories. Lower those with subbing in a mix of cauliflower and beaten egg as the crust.Sub in low calorie mozzarella or the vegan cheese and top with healthy but tasty topping. Try oven crisped portabello mushrooms , seared  peppers and even roasted tomatoes. Craving meat? Then go vegan with soy pepperoni and bacon.

Hearty dishes can be light  in calories. They can be just as filling and delicious as their calorie rich cousins. Make them on a cold winter's day.

Monday, January 14, 2019

Mmmmm M and M's

One of the most classic American candies is M&M's. These little multicolored gems are just good on their own or in a variety of different dishes and treats.What is even more interesting is their history and their impact on the American culinary landscape.

M&M's made their debut in 1941 during the beginning of World War II. Forrest Mars Senior based them on the British candy Smarties when he saw soldiers eat them as a snack during the Spanish Civil War. The British version had only debuted a few years before in 1937. and were possibly based on the Moravian version first made in Holesov Czech Republic as early as 1907.Mars was the father of the famed Milky  Ways and Mars Bars  introduced in 1923 and 1932. The candy is nothing more than a chocolate pellet coated with hard panning, basically hardened sugar syrup. Those iconic M's? One  is for Mars - of course and and Bruce Murrie, son of Hershey's chocolate president  William F.R. Murrie. They candy was made with Hershey's chocolate which had control of all the rationed chocolate at the time.After receiving a patent for it ,Mars had the candy made in the posh neighborhood of Clinton Hill, in Newark, New Jersey. Their first customer was the US Army who saw the candy as the perfect foodstuff that wouldn't melt in the pockets of soldiers stationed in tropical climates. It was strictly  army food until the end of the war when it was finally sold to civilians. The iconic brown package came about in 1950 while the Ms came about in 1949.It was black at first and then changed to white in 1954.

Most of us grew up with the classic milk chocolate or peanut ones that came about in 1954. The eighties saw the candies go global with being introduced all over the world, from Australia to Malaysia. They even hit the UK where they 've been competing with Smarties.Holiday M&M's were introduced then too, with pastel candies imprinted with bunny, chick and egg symbols. The Christmas ones were colored with  red, white and green coatings, with the last one  being mint flavored. The M's were replaced with fir trees, bells and candles. The Nineties saw the ushering in of M&M Minis sold in plastic cylinders . The new century welcomed such new flavors as dulce de leche, caramel, and peanut butter.Also entering the candy scene was dark chocolate - a nice break from the milk along with white chocolate.There's also chocolate crispy and pumpkin spice that comes out in the fall. Fruit flavors have also crept into the M&M flavor mill as  well. There are coconut, orange,cherry cordial raspberry and even candy apple.! Newer flavors are birthday cake and pretzel - the last a nice mix of sweet and salty.Mars  also makes pecan pie and caramel which is sooooo addictive.

Everyone has a favorite M&M. What's yours? Mine are caramel and almond for now. That may change when I taste the dark chocolate ones again.

Saturday, January 12, 2019

Parties To Chase The Winter Away

January may be a month to detox and chill out after all of December's holiday parties but it can also be a bland month too. Amp up the weekends with fun get togethers to chase the chill away. It'll liven spirits during the cold nights.

One of the most obvious and most fun is a fondue party. This is great for those who were lucky to receive fondue pots for Christmas. Fondue itself is an easy recipe.Most do think it's just dipping stale bread in cheddar, It's more subtle than that. The fondue itself is a mix of Gruyere and Emmenthaler  along with dry white wine and even nutmeg.It's simmering the  wine first (and keep in mind you can serve this too) and then adding the cheeses and nutmeg.  Cut a baguette in rough edged chunks . You can also use boiled potato chunks too.Many Piedmontese from northwestern Italy will tell you the winter is a great time for bagna calda. This is a fun dish, that uses the fondue pot in a different way. Bagna cauda or hot bath is a phenomenal blend of anchovies cooked with a mix of olive oil, butter and garlic .Some recipes call for sardines, but it's more of a taste thing,Savoy cabbage, native to Piedmomte is always used although you can add rare cooked London broil pieces . This variation originated in Paterson, New Jersey with the Piedmontese silk weavers who ran the Paterson mills. Adding meat to the anchovy sauce is amazing. The juices blend perfectly with fish sauce. End it with everyone dipping hunks of Italian bread in the pot. You can also go the sweet route and have a chocolate fondue party. Use the best bittersweet chocolate you can and heavy cream. Then put out a buffet of all sorts of fun dip ins such as cake chunks, marshmallows and of course, fruit.

Fondue parties are more for smaller,, more intimate get togethers.If you want a bigger do, then think a buffet. A Caribbean themed one can be fun, full of spicy foods and rum spiked drinks.Jerk chicken is always a favorite and it's a combination of sweet , spicy and fiery thanks to the addition of Scotch Bonnet peppers. Make up platters of both legs and wings for easy eating. Another fun finger food is a pastelito, an empanada that can be stuffed with meat cheeses ,or veggies.Croquetas are also a tasty addition. These breaded beef and parsley croquettes are a nice change up from the usual appetizers and party bites.Fill a punch bowl full of rum punch, a mix of golden rum, pineapple, orange and lemon juices. Craving warmth and margarita? Then head south with a Saturday night taco party. Set up a taco bar with both soft and hard tacos and different fillings. Try a variety such as chicken , ground beef and a sauteed veggie mix of onions, broccoli and tomatoes.Make sure there's plenty of guac and sour cream along with fixings of shredded lettuce, cheddar and red and green peppers. Scatter around buckets full of Coronas and ice along with bringing out a slushie maker for margaritas. End the night with cups of cinnamon spiked cocoa and churros. The last can be cut up and dipped in caramel and chocolate sauce.

Chase the January blues away with a rousing party. It can be a few people or a houseful. Just have fun coming together with good food and great people.

Friday, January 11, 2019

The FDA And The Shutdown

Everyone in this country is affected by this government shutdown.It's not just the workers and their families but  well -anyone who eats.The FDA , the Food and Drug Administration has been severely impacted by this ridiculous turn of events.

Roughly forty-one thousand FDA workers are at home, not receiving any pay. They and their jobs are vital to not only what we eat and drink but also what medications we take.This  program ,started by Teddy Roosevelt, due in part to Upton Sinclair"s The Jungle, the eye opening novel that damned the meat processing industry in early 1900's century Chicago.The 1906 Food and Drug Act and the 1906 Meat Inspection Act changed all that, enabling the American people to eat healthier and better.Today's FDA creates the guidelines food,drink and drug companies must follow in order for their products to be distributed along with protecting us from food born illnesses.They approve the medications we take along with pulling any questionable supplements off store shelves.They even make sure ads aren't tricking us.We rely on them not just with keeping our foods safe but also our cosmetics and soaps.

Now we're in dangerous territory. Our lives will be compromised as the shutdown continues.It is said that the FDA doesn't have enough money to begin with to get their jobs done properly. Still, they have made great strides in keeping us safe.Yet ,there will be  lapses, thanks to this shutdown.Many of our dollar stores import food and cosmetics from countries that don't have the strident rules and regulations we have.Lead based make up  along with foods with questionable ingredients will be on the shelves of many lower cost chains.The home front won't be monitored either.Selecting lettuce in the grocery store is going to be like walking through a minefield.Which one will give us food poisoning?Or salmonella? Will it be safe to buy chicken? Or beef? The FDA website recommends to be just as vigilant as ever.Continue washing meats and veg, along with cooking them at the appropriate temperatures and times.Luckily such high risk products as seafood, baby formula , and cheese will continue to be tested and inspected.

Hopefully the shutdown will end very soon.Our lives should not be put at risk because of one politician's tantrum.This needs to stop - NOW!