Thursday, December 10, 2015

Chowder And Rice Fritters

Despite the warm weather, it's a great time to make chowder and finish up with fried sweet rice balls. Yesterday's New York Times Food section had two recipes that would be great for the mid December lull and the end of Hanukkah,  One is a spicy soup from David Tanis in City Kitchen while Melissa Clark gives us a recipe beloved by Italian Jews in her Good Eats column.

On to the chowder first.  David Tanis gives us a spicy meat and potato kind that could work now or on a cool Spring or Summer day,It starts with fish. Mr Tanis used  smoked sablefish, a milder tasting fish for the base. Home chefs can use it but can also try any smoked fish such as whitefish, sturgeon, haddock or even eel or mussels.He sweats the onions first, then chorizo and cubed yellow fleshed potatoes (namely Yukon Gold). Leeks are also used to intensify the onion flavor and then the fish is added. Cut it into cubes and add with piquillo peppers. The last is fiery capiscum that adds heat and color to the broth , elevating it from just another seafood chowder to something special. Chopped cilantro is added to the finished product. for more color,giving it that holiday green and red contrast. This could be served at a tree trimming party along with an olive salad . Crusty Spanish bread, pan  de horno, drizzled with olive oil would also be a perfect mate to this soup. You could even float toasted slices of it on top of the chowder.. Mr. Tanis recommends an Iberian sherry or even a hearty Madeira to serve with it.

Melissa Clark gives us a variation of latkes that works for both Hanukkah and Christmas parties.They're rice fritters, a kind of arancini riff on the Sicilian savory classic rice ball.The recipe comes from Edda Servi Machlan''s 1992 cookbook "The Classic Cuisine Of Italian Jews" and features the chewier arborio rice than the regular minute kind.. The fritters also have pine nuts and raisins in it as well as a cheese center, similar to arancini. Ms. Clark punches up the raisins by soaking them in a warm brandy bath for twenty minutes.However these also have a hint of savoriness with the addition of thyme leaves and Parmesan cheese.. These rice patties do require more work than the average potato pancake,. A slurry of water and flour has to be made as a paste to hold the rice around the cheese and raisin the after . panko bread crumbs are the coating to give it the rice that nice crunchy crispness. The fritters are then fried in grapeseed oil.followed by a light sprinkle of sea salt. You can eat them straight from the fryer or even nibble on them an hour later.

If you want to liven up the December lull along with the last nights of Hanukkah, then make this chowder and rice fritters. They're an exciting departure from the usual. Try them for some fun eating.

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Memories From Jacques Pepin

Jacques Pepin is one of the world's greatest chefs. He has contributed so much to the culinary world., giving us classic French recipes along with classic sound advice. As he turns eighty, he reflects on that in a special article in today's Food section of the New York Times, It's insightful and interesting, much like the chef himself

As with his fellow Frenchman, Marcel Proust, Chef Pepin, recounts his food memories, through taste and smell. He even calls to mind that moment when Proust's beloved madeleines bring the author back to his boyhood summers at his aunt's house in Normandy. The combined flavor of them mingled with the tea that they're dipped in, bring to mind, the heat of those summers, the family cook , the garden and finally the entire seaside town of Combray. Such is the sensual power of food. Chef Pepin has the same moments, many of them, in fact as he calls up his earliest culinary memories.He is, after all, a child of a restauranteur, He knows the power of a flavor or aroma. However his first strong memory was not in his mother's eatery but at  farm where he stayed during a school vacation. realizing he missed his mere, the farmer let him milk a cow,. The taste of warm, foamy , fresh milk seared into his memory, and forever shaped the way he looked at food.From there he waxes lyrically about his family's dishes, as he writes, our family recipes  are what shape us as people. They mold our tastes and define how we cook.It's obvious with Chef Pepin. He recalls his mother's treatment of fresh picked fingerling potatoes(skins that were simply rubbed off by gentle caressing and then sauteed in butter until crisp) and his Aunt Helene's chicken in cream sauce.

His life in America has also shaped his palate as well as his cooking style. Chef Pepin lives in Connecticut but has worked in some of the best kitchens in New York City. His recipes are linked to his local markets, in his town of Madison and the nearby town of Guilford. Eggs from a vibrant Jamaican named Nathalia also are part of the mix..He also credits a farm in Hammonnasset  for fresh peas and the Lobster Landing in nearby Clinton CT for lobster. The markets of his native southern France figure large in their influence, especially the ones from Provence such as Arles, Avignon and st. Remy. Seasons are another influence as well. He lovingly recalls the sensations and food that make up the year. Summer is walking in cool grass , picking up mushrooms or along the shore , gathering up tiny fish to be fried.It's picnics with a Gallic twist, lobster, corn, and fried chicken along with lukewarm tomatoes and cooled white wine , celebrated on the Hammonnasset River, Fall is the aroma of baking apple tarts, making cider, and the flavor of Concord grapes and his favorite holiday's Thanksgiving turkey.Winter brings him back to 1959 when he first arrived in New York City and smelled that Manhattan street classic roasted chestnuts.It's also the comforting aromas of bean stews and homemade split pea soup made with ham, along with cheese fondue. There is also fond remembrances of the holidays with oysters and foie gras, chocolate truffles and homemade caramel candies.

Chef Pepin could be considered the Proust of our age. He has such beautiful memories of the foods , flavors and aromas that have shaped his life. Every one should have those fond  and warm remembrances.

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Books For Your Home Chefs

Cookbooks are always at the top of every foodie's and home chef's gift list. It's always great to get any type of cookbook. .They can expand horizons and introduce chefs to new skills and dishes. There are so many out there , that it's easy to make a choice .Give one that celebrates Mexican cuisine or one that celebrates SoCal cooking.

This past Sunday's New York Times Book section, Holiday Books issue suggests many good books to give (and also treat yourself to a couple); There are several ones that reflect certain cuisines . If your foodie loves the exotic eastern Mediterranean foods then gift them with Zahav:A  World Of Israeli Cooking(Rux Martin/Howard Mifflin  ) written by chef Michael Solomonov with Stephen Cook. Zahav is one of Philadelphia's hottest restaurants, featuring delicious Israeli food and the cookbook is a reflection of that. Recipes include tahini sauce and harissa, that flavorful blend of spices.If your home chef has a thing for all things Scandinavian , then The Nordic Cookbook
(Phaidon Publishing, $49.95) is for him or her. Author Magnus Nilsson offers traditional and modern recipes from such diverse areas as Finland and Greenland = although your home chef may want to think twice about cooking a cute puffin stuffed with cake recipe. Mexican food buffs will surely enjoy Lesley Teller's Eat Mexico:Recipes From Mexico's City Streets Markets and Fondas (Kyle Publishing $24.95).It has steak flautas along with the recipe for the ultra decadent Mexican hot chocolate, champurrado.

Home chefs who appreciate simple cooking and the chemistry   behind it will love unwrapping The Food Lab:Better Home Cooking Through Science (Norton $49.95). It explains everything from temperature to food safety to labeling.The science of browning, rising , emulsifying and marinating is also parsed out  There is also The Laws of Cooking And How To Break Them (Flatiron $35) by Justin Warner, a fun books that has laws like law of peanut butter and jelly  where fat complements sweet and the law of coffee, cream and sugar - bitter compliments sweet  The book also has how to repurpose used marinade into a tasty gravy by boiling it,Mark Bittman fans should appreciate his Mark BIttman's Kitchen Matrix (Pam Kraus/Crown $35) He celebrates chicken done a variety of ways namely using the paillard method of cooking. Women Chefs Of New York (Absolute/Bloomsbury $35) which features the recipes of such chefs as April Bloomfield, Missy Robbins, Sasha Miranda and Sawako Okochi along with Gabriel Hamilton. Her recipe for sardines cornichons and Dijon mustard on Triscuits could work for any holiday party or a snowy night in..California cuisine lovers may appreciate Travis Lett's GJelena Cooking From Venice California (Chronicle $35). Recipes include grilled kabocha squash with mint pomegranate pesto and rye rags(!??) with sausage , mushroom  fennel along with rustic corn grits served with mushroom sugo and poached eggs.

A cookbook is a wonderful holiday gift.Home chefs and foodies alike will enjoy the surprise of receiving a book that will educate them as well as expanding their culinary horizons It's a present that keeps on giving,

Monday, December 7, 2015

Hanukkah Party Time

Today ii the second day of Hanukkah, the festival of lights. It's a time to celebrate , and of course eat fun treats.As with any other holiday., it's celebrated differently throughout the world. There are some yummy treats that work well at any Hanukkah party.

The holiday is known for homemade latkes or potato pancakes.These symbolize the miracle of the festival when the last jar of oil not touched by the Greeks lasted for eight days - hence the reasoning whythe holiday lasts for that long. Latkes are usually made with grated potatoes mixed with onions.This is the traditional way however you can also make them with mashed potatoes..This creates a creamy middle yet it still has a nice crispy, crunchy crust. You can add shallots and parsley  for more flavor and color. another way of adding color is making latkes with root vegetables.Mayim Bialik (Amy Farrah Fowler on "The Big Bang Theory") has an excellent recipe for this in her cookbook, Mayim's Vegan Table (Lifelong Books Publishers). Carrots ,zucchini and red pepper make the batter festively colorful while matzoh meal and egg are the binders. You can use a real egg instead of the egg substitute. Sweet potatoes can also be turned into latkes They're basically made the same way as the regular ones with one more egg added.These can be served with yogurt and sour cream or plain yogurt.

Another Hanukkah favorite is sufganiyot , another treat deep fried in oil. It's a kind of  yeast jelly doughnut. that actually originated in North Africa. The recipe is a hybrid  from the Ashkenazi Jews who resettled in Israel who combined the recipe with their ponchke one, a type of Berliner. The original recipe called for two pieces of dough sandwiching a blob of jam and then deep frying it. A better way is making the dough and frying it first and then filling it with a syringe. The filling is usually strawberry or raspberry jam. Dust with powdered or granulated sugar.You can fill them with salted caramel or dulce de leche.If you're having a party you make want to think about baking dreidl cookies. These are just a basic sugar cookie dough rolled out to look like the four sided top. Ice it with the familiar symbols of nes, gadol,haya and shan. If you want a more substantial dinner then make the traditional brisket with carrots and potatoes.You can also serve with meat with latkes.Noodle kugel is another nice dish that could go sweet or savory. It can be served as a meal or as a dessert, depending on the ingredients.

Hanukkah is a time of good food and good eating. Fry up a batch of latkes for a fun crunchy treat or a jam filled sufganiyot for a bite between games. Enjoy this festive time with festive sweets and savories.

Saturday, December 5, 2015

Pre-Party Ready

Now that the holiday party season has officially kicked off , party goers need to know one thing.Don;t go to any soiree or tree trimming party hungry. It pays to have a mini meal before hand. You'll feel better along with not getting drunk so quickly on an empty stomach.

One of my pre party rituals is always having a cup of simple vegetable broth and a few crackers before hand. This satisfies me until I actually eat again which is usually late .A cup of hot , steamy broth is also fortifying.I'm satisfied along with knowing I won;t wolf down all sorts of rich party foods later on . Nothing is more uncomfortable than the after effects of gorging on an empty stomach . Most nutritionists also recommend eating other low calories snacks such as raw carrots and celery sticks, Having a snack of these three or four hours before the actual feast will help you keep sated.If you want more protein spread a dab of peanut butter on the celery . It can also go on crackers too. Cheese and crackers are another good go to pre festivity snack as are grapes.If you know you;re eating very late - anywhere from nine PM to midnight, then think about heating up a light soup for yourself. Any vegetable soup is good or even a ramen noodle soup. They;'re light  and filling, able to stave your appetite until the later hours.

Another plus about eating early is that it helps with not getting drunk. If you have a boozy night ahead then plan on carbo loading before hand. Again , a cup of Ramen noodles is probably your best bet. It's mild but filling. You can even add a beaten egg to it for more protein.Pizza surprisingly is a pre partier's best friend, but this may be too much before a big do. Try a simple grilled cheese or better yet a sandwich filled with one or two slices of any kind of cold cut. instead Also just a toasted muffin, bagel or English muffin will  help in you absorbing that run punch or champagne cocktail. Surprisingly a baked potato is another good mini meal before all that holiday punch.Potatoes are pure starch which can easily absorb the alcohol.Just make a simple one, butter on top with salt and pepper, Leave the cheese and chili for another day. Ddespite what the old wives tales say, drinking milk before boozing is not a good idea. The alcohol will curdle it on your stomach leaving you nauseous and ready to hurl. Keep away from it and ice cream.

Eating before a big holiday party is a must.  Have a small sandwich or a cup of broth You'll feel better and won't arrive hungry, ready to gobble down anything.

Friday, December 4, 2015

Healthy Holiday Cookies

Many think it's as rare as actually seeing Santa Claus or even an elf? What is it? A batch of healthy holiday cookies.Is there such a thing? More importantly what would they taste like?Well, there is such a thing and healthy good for you cookies actually are flavorful.

Many home bakers and cookie affectionadoes blanch at the very notion of a healthy holiday treat. After all Christmas is supposed to be a time for indulgences with buttery rich shortbreads and icing laden gingerbread men. Yet you don't have to give up flavor for a tasty plate of goodness.One of the most popular to bake during this season is the sugar cookie. One sub in white flour with spelt. along with coconut or evaporated cane sugar.Home bakers could sub in the healthier brown sugar, however this makes for a very chewy sugar cookie. Most holidays ones have a snap and crunch to them.Use a butter type spread such as Earth Balance sticks. They are non dairy yet have a buttery taste.Unfortunately the icing does have to have confectioner's sugar to create a smooth paste, however you can add skim milk or make an icing using macadamia nuts and shredded coconut.Peanut butter cookies are another holiday fave. You can sub in maple syrup for refined white sugar Applesauce can be added too along with organic peanut butter. Chocolate chip, that holiday cookie platter must have can be remade into something healthier.One, you can sub in carob chips for chocolate ones. Another sub in  -oatmeal flour  or whole heat for an extra chewy bite.Again use coconut and sucanat -which is whole cane sugar that hasn't been refined.

Of course it wouldn't be Christmas without the classic snickerdoodle. This time they can be a good for you indulgence, with the addition of organic sucanat and using Earth Balance  faux butter .sticks. Use a  lot of cinnamon when making these because the spice can help in lowering blood pressure as wekll as aiding in combating stomach flu. Oatmeal cookies are a must have. These can be made as healthy as possible., with whole wheat flour and honey along with brown sugar. An egg is used as a binder although there recipes that do use applesauce as a binder instead. Raisins are the preferred extra but you can also add dried cranberries for color and more flavor, along with dark chocolate chips. What would Christmas be without the classic gingerbread men and house?. You can still bake these  but with a better for you spin.. Use whole wheat pastry flour instead of white, coconut oil for butter and the oil dark molasses for white sugar.The last is high in potassium, iron,Vitamin B calcium and magnesium.You could use royal icing to decorate or a glaze. As for the gingerbread house, sub in healthy decorations rather than candy. Have an almond decorated roof along with Craisins around the windows and doors.Shredded coconut can be sprinkled on top to simulate snow. Another fun idea with the molasses is using it to make classic molasses snaps, using whole wheat flour and egg whites.

Yes, Virginia, there is such a thing as a healthy Christmas cookie that is delicious. You can make a whole slew of them, including the classic gingerbread house. They're a treat that's good for you.

Thursday, December 3, 2015

Foodie Gifts Foodie Fun

The gift giving season is upon us. It's the time of year to stress about what would be the perfect gift. Luckily foodies and homes chefs are the easiest people to buy for. There's always an interesting food or new gadget that's sure to please them. That's what makes shopping for them so much fun but shoppers do need a guide This helps in selecting the right gift.

Yesterday's New York Times Food section knows this and supplied readers with a two page gift guide in their holiday section. There are some interesting ideas that are sure to please everyone. Candy canes are front and center in this  and they're in both traditional and very non traditional flavors. Hammond's Candies of Denver Colorado produces the old fashioned peppermint kind along with sugar plum and birthday cake flavors. (however  be warned one candy cane is $2.95 and $30.00 for a dozen) Anglophiles and butter lovers will go mad for English toffee.from Littlejohn's Candies. This Los Angeles fave also has bacon caramels for the Paleos in your life  as well as fudge in a variety of different flavors.Tired of sweet, then try unami and spicy Gochuan Korean Hot Sauce ,a hot chili paste that's sweet, spicy and savory. It's not just for bulgoki but for adding zest and zing to ribs, burgers and dogs.For something truly different try Scourtins the savory butter cookie with the addition of a briny olive paste.(!) Lark Fine Foods bake them in their Essex Massachusetts facility.They're known for their interesting pairings such as burnt caramel and rosemary in the company's other cookies.If you have a true meat lover in your life then gift him or her with Nodine's Smokehouse bacon sampler. It has the German influenced juniper infused bacon along with garlic flavored and the classic apple wood smoked one. Get nut lovers pecans from Cleveland Organics for both nibbling and baking,

The guide has some intriguing gadgets for home chefs.A sweetly  old fashioned  one is the Chef Time from Piq.This is an ultra cute kitchen timer with a toque wearing chef's mustache sporting head on top. Messy home chefs and home bakers will appreciate the sturdily made apron from Les Toiles de Soleil. It's pricey at $75.00  but it's made of a durable cotton that will last through splashes and washings.It's in a bright striped pattern that will liven up any kitchen Innovative chefs will appreciate the Spiralizer from Kitchen Aid.. It's the size of a mixer and comes with four different peelers. You can not only make carrot ribbons with it but also peel and slice apples along with coring and slicing.Another must is a set of thirteen wooden spoons from Dura Artisans. These are hand carved beechwood from India and are all different sizes and spoon shapes. If your home chef craves elegance then surprise them with a classic looking cabbage leaf bowl from Williams -Sonoma.It's a beautifully crafted bowl from Portugal with a special commemorative stamp celebrating the store's centennial. If your home chef s more the Pioneer Woman kind of cook then  thrown in a triangle dinner bell from Schoolhouse Electric. It's a high end gift at $65.00 but a fun one that will last years.

This holiday season give your special foodie, home chef or home baker a unique gift. Using the Times Food Holiday guide , you 'll find the right present that will be thoroughly enjoyed. It's just a little help that will go a long way in the marathon that is the holiday shopping season.