Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Times Thankgiving Issue Part Three

Once again Thanksgiving is the focal point of the New York Times Food section. This week though, focuses on table manners. Both, surprisingly are vital to the season. Good manners will take you anywhere while leftovers will take you through the weekend and into the work week.

Times regular contributor Kim Severson got to sit through a formal dinner in Hartsville South Carolina's high school, in particular in teacher's Wardie Sanders' history class. Here they're properly instructed in the fine art of what knives to use and how to use a napkin. It's throwback to Emily Post's days of fine etiquette and proper behavior when eating at a formal or holiday table. While teens and adults may balk at these little quirks, there a reasons behind them, dating s far back as the Middle Ages. We chew with our mouths closed because we don't want to gross out those around us. Napkins are placed on the lap to protect clothing and the chair.Placing a knife to the right with the blade facing the plate is a throwback to when people brought their own knives to a table.If a fight broke out it was then easy to grab your weapon and fight.Of course the biggest etiquette bugaboo is the ever present cell phone. No,it   shouldn't take top priority while eating but are allowed when backing up a fact or question. They can also be used for Face Time for a relative or friend who couldn't make it.However good manners also extends to making eye contact with those around you and engaging them in conversation.In other words, nix the technology just until dessert is over.

Of course, it's a free for all the next day. Formality is shed as leftovers come out. David Tanis gives many different recipes for what to do with the bird and sides.He plays with a classic chicken ala king subbing in turkey in a creamy gravy  on top of sweet potato biscuits. Another idea is a meat pie. He chooses the more flavorful dark meat, mashed potatoes along with roasted squash and chard for a yummy spin on shepherd's pie. American cheddar is added for some zing . He suggests     these but you may want to try other variations, like white meat and leftover peas and corn.Use store bought puff pastry if you're too tired to make a scratch dough. You can serve the finished pie or torta Americana with leftover gravy or a side of cranberry jelly. It could also just be served with a simple salad if you want lighter fare. Turkey can also be pulled and this can be stuffed into a pita along with cabbage, cucumbers and tahini dressing for a more refreshing rehash of leftovers.Of course home chefs could fall back on the traditional  second day dishes such as turkey tetrazzini and turkey fried rice.


Save this issue  as you;ve saved the other two special Thanksgiving issues. Table manners are always good to have in this holiday season. They ill elevate and civilize you. Leftovers are also good to have, simply     because they can let you go wild making all sorts of dishes - and eating them without a care for manners and civility.

Tuesday, November 24, 2015

Crazy For Cranberries

Cranberries may not be the star of the Thanksgiving meal but they certainly steal the show. Their brilliant ruby color commands attention and their tart taste is a palate cleanser. They're  good for not just holiday meals but for healthier eating and drinking. Another aspect is that they're extremely versatile. They can jazz up chutneys or be turned into fun mocktails.

Cranberries have a lot in common with Christmas trees and blueberries. Both  cranberries and firs are evergreens,.It shares a woody stem and bell shaped flower with the blueberry along with similar berries, the huckleberry and the bilberry. Cranberries are classified into two categories, the North American and Northern European. They were originally called craneberries by early English settlers to America,  due to their flowers resembling cranes and their long necks..They grow in sandy wet soil,namely Massachusetts and south western New Jersey where Ocean Spray cranberry juice is manufactured. Anything with cranberries is a good thing. They're high in manganese, an essential mineral used in metabolism, growth and cancer fighting. They also have moderate amounts of vitamin C and fiber. .Cranberry juice  can also aid in healing urinary tract infections. Since they have a bitter taste , they do have to be processed with a lot of sugar. The berries have been made into juice since the late 1680's and were even served at a Harvard commencement dinner as early as 1803.Cranberries were bought and fresh until the 1930's.Ocean Spray and Cranberries Cooperatives came together to form the main distributor of cranberry products in the United  States.

Cranberries are not just relegated to Thanksgiving and Christmas. You can have them all year long. Fresh ones can be made into cranberry jelly. This is just a simple mix of them, sugar and water. The skins and pulp are then strained and the juice is reboiled with sugar . Its' then poured into sterilized jelly jars and sealed airtight with paraffin wax. For something a little less labor intensive try cranberry relish. This is a mix of fresh cranberries, tart green apples and orange slicesThese are ground with two cups of white, refined sugar. The relish  could be a great condiment after Thanksgiving, adding some zest to not only turkey but also chicken sandwiches too. Use the berries in an exotic chutney. This is like the relish but has allspice  cinnamon, clove and ginger added for zing. Brown sugar is used instead of regular for an earthier flavor.  Dried cranberries such Craisins are used in desserts too. They liven up regular oatmeal cookies and bring color to chocolate chip ones.Cranberry juice is the main ingredient in the tasty classic The Cape Codder, where it's mixed with vodka. Yet there are some yummy mocktails out there that work at any party. Blend it with sparkling grape juice and a few drops of maple syrup for a cranberry fizz. Start off your holiday parties with a cranberry lemonade punch . This is mixing the juice with freshly made lemonade and then adding seltzer for froth and bubble.

As traditional as they are cranberries can also be a fin addition to any meal or party. They're zingy and zesty, perfect for drinks and sides. Try them in relishes and chutnies , or use them in a fun toast to the holidays.

Monday, November 23, 2015

Amy's Fast Food- The Healthy Mickey D's

Many people, especially parents , have been protesting about the ill effects of fast foods. Let's face it a greasy burger plus fires is not exactly a good lunch or even dinner. Yet  we all crave it from time to  time. Luckily health food giant Amy's has begun it's first relatively healthy fast food stand. Now foodies can have their burger and fries - without any guilt.

Vegans and vegetarians , along with conscientious eaters, already know Amy's ,a brand started in 1987 by Rachel and Andy Berliner with the birth of their daughter , Amy. Rachel Berliner came from a family that was growing their own food and eating organic as early as the 1950's. She wanted to give other mothers the chance to feed healthy food to their families hence the company. Their first frozen dinner was a broccoli pot pie in 1987. It was also the first of many all natural frozen dinners made without any genetically modified foods.There are no meats, poultry, eggs or dairy. Most are made with tofu  along with veggies and spices. The company literally has every meal covered , from breakfast with tofu scrambles and toaster tarts to dessert with coconut milk ice cream. They have a variety of veggie burgers from bistro to quarter pounders so it's an easy leap to fast food.Amy's also sells other fun foods such as pizza and burritos.

These fun foods translate well in their new fast food menu. Amy's Drive Thru is also going to have fries made from locally grown potatoes along with both non dairy and dairy shakes. Baked mac and broccoli are also on the menu. There's going to be salad and chili too. What probably won't be on their menu - those huge soda's and sweet teas. Amy's Drive Thru is not all that clean, as both Berliners will attest, there will be salt and fried food. However there will be no added sugars or preservatives. The food will be fresh. The potatoes are coming from a farm near the first location in Rohnert Park California, a farming community fifty miles north of San Francisco. The concept is nothing new there. Loco'l, a kind of all natural Shake Shack has been serving fresh organic no hormones added burgers and chicken nuggets. Hopefully Amy's will go nationwide, but this may be hard for those cities located a ways from farmland growing the necessary ingredients. It may be a wise move to set up their own farms. as they did with their frozen and microwave products.

Amy's Drive Thru is a breakthrough in many ways. Hopefully it will be seen in all fifty states , dispensing good food and fun food to people craving healthy meals and snacks. They're creating a movement that cannot be stopped.

Saturday, November 21, 2015

Bulletproofing Your Diet

Everyone thinks that the start of the holiday season means extra pounds and tight clothes. Not necessarily.You can actually eat tons of butter and red meat between now and the New Year's and actually lose weight. There's a new cookbook showing how with  the bulletproof way of eating. It's a great way of keeping healthy and satisfied during the weeks ahead.

Bulletproof, The Cookbook (Rodale Press) was written by David Asprey who also wrote The Bulletproof Diet, and developed the discipline of the same name. Mr.Asprey was a Silicon Valley tech magnate when he discovered a way to improve his life and shed pounds His famed  bulletproof coffee, a mix of high energy coffee beans, oil and grassfed butter, has a following that includes Jimmy Fallon.Mr. Asprey  recommends using grassfed butter in almost all of his recipes (more on that later). The book is an instrumental guide in how to cook as well as how to live .He recommends very rarely using microwaves because of the radiation leakage as well as not cooking food in metal pots and pans. Dieters following his advice should be buying a sous vide- and also gentle baking or baking at the moderate temperature of 325 degrees Farenheit.  In a way the bulletproof diet is one of extremes Mr Asprey recommends eating grass fed beef but looks down on eating certain fruits like cantaloupes and plums He is big on avocados along with Brussels sprouts and olives. One of the best aspects of the book is that he values spices, and their benefits. The diet is rich in cancer fighting turmeric and cinnamon, along with cloves , the last not normally used a lot in every day cooking.

The recipes are tantalizing, despite the many restrictions. Mr/ Asprey used grassfed butter along with the Indian clarified butter or ghee  in many main and side dishes. He also uses a lot of coconut oil and a concoction you can buy on his website called Bulletproof Brain Octane Oil. Unlike some diet recipe books, there is a wide variety of recipes that will appeal to all ages.He has an interesting spin on Salad Nicoise, which uses trout and sweet potatoes as opposed to the usual tuna and yellow potatoes.He gives a nod to the Paleo diet with  recipes for bone broth and an Asian version of it. The sides are pretty tasty too,His buttered kale and buttered Brussels sprouts would be good gracing a Thanksgiving turkey as would his spice roasted fennel. There are recipes for smoothies and lattes with one for the famed Bulletproof coffee. Surprisingly there are also dessert recipes in here as well such as bulletproof cupcakes made with the chocolate and vanilla bulletproof powders (that can be bought on the website) along with recipes for pineapple granita and blueberry gelato.The back of the book is devoted to home made condiments like mayo and herbed butters. Newbies may want to try these out before embarking on the whole lifestyle

Bulletproof The Cookbook, along with the actual diet is a great way of losing weight and gaining energy for the busy holiday season ahead. It's full of yummy dishes that cater to everyone. It's flavor plus goodness .

Friday, November 20, 2015

A Drunk Turkey And Other Ideas

What goes well with a holiday meal? A holiday drink. Any wine, cocktail or punch can highlight all types of food, from a roast to a cookie. It's just knowing what to serve and what pairs well with it. This creates a nice harmony  where one accents the other.

Many will wonder what will go with next week's holiday meal. After all, a true Thanksgiving dinner has a mélange of flavors , from the unami of the gravy, the saltiness of the meat and stuffing to the sweetness of the yams and cranberries. Since turkey is fowl , it's best to stick with a white wine, preferably sparkling. The German Reisling is about your best bet.it goes well with any flavor, sweet salty and even spicy.It is a very fruity wine with notes of apple and apricot which makes it the perfect companion for a sweet potato casserole along with a crisp turkey leg.Another  German white is Gerwurtztraminer, a lively white that has a slight spiciness to it.  Sauvignon Blanc,a crisp citrusy wine, that has strong herbaceous and cut grass overtones.is a good one to pair with  any spicy dish, especially a strong herb based dressing.It is also a great wine for party food too.Serve it with artichokes dip or even bruschetta at a Christmas or New Year's get together.Red wines can also be served at the Thanksgiving table.Pinot Noir is about the best one because its' fruitiness and earthy, fungi tones shows off the bird and the different sides..

Thanksgiving is the official start of the holiday season. It's when mixed drinks and boozy punches reign supreme. You can liven up the holiday dinners and get togethers afterwards with an apple cider cocktail. This is a mix of  rum, apple cider and cinnamon schnapps  with a apple kabob garnish., apple cubes skewered on a  swizzle stick.It would also be a fun sip at any tree decorating party too. A mulled cider is a nice way to finish any holiday meal.A warm cup of it is a dessert , after a heavy feast and best of all it's non-alcoholic. It's just simmering the liquid with allspice, cloves and cinnamon. A thinly sliced orange is also added to cut the spiciness and cut through the heaviness.For pure elegance serve a cranberry Kir Royale. This is a bit labor intensive but worth it for the sleek flavor. It's first cooking down frozen cranberries along with orange juice and zest with sugar.it is then strained and cooled. The thick syrup is then spooned into the bottom of champagne flutes and any kind of champagne is poured over this for a layered effect.Cranberries can be added for decoration. For real fun , think about an apple pie sangria , a kind of punch made with Pearl Apple Pie vodka, cider and pear nectar. Ginger ale is added for bubble and fizz.It's a great party drink too, perfect with roast pork or a nice roasted ham.

Yes, this is the season for food and wine. It's part of the holiday feasting to pair holiday dishes with holiday drinks. The two set each other off perfectly.enhancing its' other flavors and notes.



Thursday, November 19, 2015

Gravy Training

One of the most important parts of any holiday dinner is the gravy. It can be the thin au jus which lets thee meat shine or a thick, rich sauce that's perfect on slices of turkey and bread. The secret to any gravy is a good recipe and how you make it. It' not just luck. Technique and know how play important roles too.

What exactly is au jus?It's from the French and means with it's own juice.It's used primarily with beef dishes like prime rib or London Broil but it can be used with turkey too. To prepare  all home chefs have to do simply skim the fat off the meat after cooking and mixed with water .It is then heated  until bubbling an d then poured over the meat. A sandwich can be made,using the roast and typically French bread,  and it can be dunked in the gravy. This is called a French dip and is very popular in diners and some restaurant chains like Denny's and Friendly's. Soy sauce and Worcester sauce can be added to enhance the brown color along with brown sugar, garlic and onion , these last added to enhance the flavor. Turkey au jus is easy to make.It's just skimming the juices from the bottom of the pan. You can add dry white wine or butter to stretch it.You can also add a cup of chicken broth to stretch it out if you want. Au jus can be frozen for three month however be warned. Freezing and then reheating makes it lose its' flavor. It's better off eaten fresh with the meat.

Many people prefer the thicker kind of gravy. After all, it goes well with everything from slices of whte meat to mashed potatoes to stuffing.It's also good reheated, ,moistening a sandwich made with leftovers. This gravy is easy  to make. It starts with a roux, a mix of butter or fat with flour and water. Home chefs can omit the butter, because the drippings already have fat.Drain the drippings off the bird along with skimming off the fat. This last will be mixed with a 1/4 cup of flour and will be whisked into a smooth almost paste like gravy. Pour the dripping into this until thick and creamy. Constant stirring and whisking  is key here..Gravy can lump up which can ruin it. If there are any flour lumps, then break them up with a fork and then forcefully stir into the liquid.If you want a meatier version then add the giblets. These are the gizzards, neck, liver and heart of the bird and should be cooked for at least an hour or until they're tender before adding.They're then minced and added to the gravy.It's recommended to cook these before you start on the main part. Leftover gravy should be refrigerated right after using due to the fact that it's a bacteria magnet. It can be frozen for up to four months in an airtight container.

Gravy, whether it's the delicate au jus,or the hearty thick kind adds so much to  the Thanksgiving dinner. Make either one for a tasty plus that goes with both bird and stuffing . They'll not only enhance dinner but also make the leftovers special too.

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

More Thanksgiving From The Times

For those of you who missed out on last week's New York Times Food section, there is another one, filled with more advice and different, exciting recipes. Best of all this issue features' not only an homage to Julia Child but also her best Thanksgiving recipes..These last alone are keepers and perfect for establishing new traditions at the holiday table.

Times Food expert Julia Moskin wrote about the another food expert Julia along with the recipes Ms. Child gave us.She interviewed Sheryl Julian , the current food editor at the Boston Globe., about her two Thanksgivings at the Child home. Surprisingly the meal was devoid of all Gallic influence. In fact it was a very simple meal, inspired by Ms. Child''s New England heritage (her mother's line could be traced back to the first Thanksgiving celebrants.) One recipe is genius . It is a kind of "sandwich" involving shaping two boneless turkey breasts around stuffing.It's then wrapped in turkey skin and cheesecloth  and basted with butter. The result is a golden roast that's done in two hours and slices like a dream. She also served early American staples like oysters and pumpkins. Ms. Moskin also includes Ms. Child's recipe, her Aunt Helen's fluffy pumpkin pie. It's a decadent old fashioned kind with heavy cream and bourbon or rum added.There is also a spicy dried fruit sauce that could go with the pie or better yet, topping French style vanilla ice cream.

Another good article from the issue is from Melissa Clark and it involves the second stars of the Thanksgiving feast: the sides. These are not your typical ones. They're bright and zesty, a refreshing breeze after the heaviness of gravy and turkey. She suggests leaving those alone along with the mashed potatoes. There could be a revolt if you change them comes a caveat.One is roasted radishes with anchovies, a kind of bagna calda that would definitely compliment the turkey's sweetness. This could even be a hot appetizer before dinner too. Another is shaved butternut squash with dates,a take on salad with a buttermilk dressing. If guests are still craving green sides then think of  Ms Clark's other recipe, sautéed Brussels sprouts with apple and prosciutto. This last is sautéing sliced apples, preferably Golden Delicious,  with the sprouts. They're then covered with shaved prosciutto and for vegetarians and vegans, shaved Pecorino cheese. Desserts have also been changed up to, thanks to David Tanis.He combines another flavor of the season, chestnut with chocolate in a light , flourless cake..It is made with chestnut flour and chestnuts for an airy flavor,.He took the recipe from cookbook author, Alice Medrich and her chocolate soufflé cake  For those who still want cranberry  Mr. Tanis offers a cranberry curd tart a variation of the French lemon curd one. It still has the same tartness , thanks to the cranberries and a hazelnut crust as opposed to the usual sable or shortbread one.

It's always fun to change up tradition now and then. Home chefs can change their Thanksgiving with the addition of any of these recipes. They're a fun departure from the usual, thanks to the Times.