Thursday, October 22, 2015

Rediscovering Your Broiler

For many home chef broiling is a rare experience. It's usually not thought of for cooking steaks, even now when the weather is still warm enough to grill outside. Yet broiling adds to meat,poultry  and fish , giving them a  nice juiciness without all that overpowering smoky flavor. It's time to rediscover this important part of the oven.

John Willoughby did just that and wrote about it in yesterday's New York Times Food section Sixty years ago broiling was de rigeur for home chefs.It was used mostly for chops and steaks and they were usually over broiled until they were dry and flavorless. The method  fell out of favor with only restaurants using them and being renamed as the salamander. (this from the Greeks who attributed the animal with fire producing ability). Luckily a new generation is discovering broilers and using them to create a variety of dishes. His friend and cooking partner, Chris Schlesinger started with steaks, namely because his girlfriend, Suzanne wanted them and the time of year was not agreeable to outdoor cooking. Her craving happened in the middle of a snowstorm. The stomach wants what the stomach wants and Chef Schlesinger decided that pan cooked steak would end up in a smoky kitchen. That's when his broiler snobbery had to be over come and the broiler was the only method left to produced perfectly grilled filet. He was hooked, graduating from beef to chicken to fish.

There are a few warnings to heed before trying out your oven's boiler. Remember that every broiler has its' quirks and peculiarities. Different ones heat to different temperatures and the distance between heat and rack varies from oven to oven. Home chefs have to be active in the cooking process.As with outdoor grilling, it's important to check in often on the food and move it around to avoid one side getting burned or cooked before the other side. Before even starting the broiler needs to be preheated  for five to ten minutes, preferably for the longer period of time. As with grilling select tender and thin pieces of meat to broil.Fish steaks, chicken and steak strips are all fine. Stay away from whole chickens ( although you can broil Cornish hens thanks to their small size) and wholes roasts. Save those for the oven. Pay attention to where the food is positioned. (this doesn't apply to the old fashioned under the oven type). The meat has to be close enough , namely three to four inches away to cook properly. Also nix the Pyrex or any glass  container because they will break. Buy  those aluminum  a roasting pans which can be used many times and then discarded without cleaning.

Home chefs should rediscover broiling. It's a lost method of cooking that should be resurrected. It produces  deliciously broiled meats, that are juicy and succulent,

Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Scones, The Way Coleridge Liked Them

Today is Samuel Taylor Coleridge's birthday and surely he must have celebrated with a Devon cream tea. One of the components of any tea are scones, those mouth watering biscuits.They're an easy bake for novice home chefs along with being versatile with their ingredients. They can be just plain or filled with everything from nuts to berries to even candies.

Scones have been baked since the early 1500's and were surprisingly the size of a luncheon plate in their early days. Their origins were not England as you'd might suspect but possibly from Scotland and Holland. The Scots have something similar, called a bannock and it could be from this that our modern day ones originate from. They  could also come from the Dutch schoonbrod  translated into fine white bread. The Dutch ones were smaller , spoonfuls of dough were dropped onto a hot griddle and cooked. Even the Germans made them and also contributed to their name by calling them schoenbrod.Most foodies  as well as Coleridge himself, knew the British variations of them. These are the ones that are  chock full of currants, raisins, dates and cheese. The Scots and Northern Irish mix potatoes in with the dough and then fry them. These tattie scones are a big part of the Ulster fry up, the sumptuous breakfast full of streaky bacon, pork sausage and eggs.The US embraced scones thanks to the recent coffeehouse culture , and we probably have Starbucks to thank for that. They're mostly cinnamon and blueberry flavored here .In Utah, they're a variation of the Indian fry bread with buttermilk and baking soda.


Scones are the perfect bake for the novice home baker. You can easily make the ones that ST Coleridge probably enjoyed with his Devon cream tea.There is the Bisquick kind made with that baking mix.These are the closest to what Starbucks sells, with a confectioner's sugar glaze and stuffed with blueberries.A more authentic version is the English recipe which calls for mixing white flour with baking soda.Butter is added to this and the dry ingredients are cut together similar to what is done with pie crust.Once the mix resembles course breadcrumbs, eggs and milk are added to give it a  more doughy quality. It is then rolled out to a one inch thickness and then cut with a biscuit cutter or can be cut into triangles.They're baked in a very hot oven at 425 degrees Fahrenheit   for only ten to fifteen minutes . If you want them to have a shiny top then brush them with a beaten egg before baking.If you want to have a sweet crust then, just sprinkled granulated sugar on top after egg /butter washing and before baking. For cinnamon flavored ones just add four teaspoons of the spice to the dough.Serve them the true British way with clotted cream (which you can get on Amazon) butter and any jam, such as raspberry or red current.

Celebrate Coleridge's birthday with a batch of freshly made scones, butter, jam and , of course Devon cream tea. He would have appreciated this tea, as you will. Savor the taste of a butter and jam covered one washed down with hot milky Earl Grey.

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Tasty Tarts

One of the most delicious and versatile baked treats to make is a tart. It's an elegant alternative to cake and pie, always looking perfect on a dessert table. One of the best aspects of any tart recipe is that you can make one or a dozen with basically the same recipe.They all are mouthwatering , with their glazed crusts  and rich fillings of fruit, cream or ganache.

A tart is basically a topless pie with usually a short crust.meaning it has a lot of shortening or lard in the recipe. Many professional and home bakers will sub in butter for a richer flavor and more crumbly crust. The pastry has been around since the medieval period, starting off with more meat than fruit fillings. The French quiche , German zweibelkuchen or onion pie and Swiss Gruyere pie are savory forms of it. Most tarts are now either custard or fruit filled. The truest form of tart is probably the English custard tart.It has a rich egg yolk filling, sort of similar to the Italian zabaglione.Any home chef can easily make them and also personalize them too. They can add in a pinch of cinnamon or nutmeg. or do a dusting of toasted coconut or toasted almonds on top.A Gallic variation is the tarte aux flan, a creamy one that has the light Spanish based custard as a filling. fruit tarts are a great way of using the fruits of the season. Nothing beats the sweet and tangy flavor of both apple and pear tarts.

Are tarts easy to make? They may seem complicated with all their steps but they're can be made by any novice home baker. The  star of any tart is the crust. This is what makes it extraordinary. If it's too soggy, then the whole thing is gloppy.The preliminary steps are similar to making a regular pie crust.The dough should be chilled, anywhere from thirty minutes to an hour The crust should be rolled out to an even thickness and then placed into a two piece tart pan.Remember the dough is supposed to be tender so don't worry if there's tears. These can be mended.If it's baked without the filling then prick the sides and bottom with a fork to prevent shrinkage. Don't do anything if the tart is to be baked with a filling.Luckily tart crust can be made with gluten free flour Tarts can also be made with almond or any ground nuts too. Beginners should start off with the simple custard tart and then work their way up to fruit and ganache filled ones.

Tarts are an elegant alternative to pie. They are easy to make for any home baker, who wants a classier dessert with no fuss. These fit the bill perfectly.

Monday, October 19, 2015

A Homemade Meat Pie

The air has that fall nip to it signaling it's time to make hearty  homemade meals .One of the best is the meat pie.It's a tasty way to get rid of leftovers while providing a rib sticking lunch or dinner. - Vegans and vegetarians need not worry  - the recipe can be tailored so that's it's chock full of only veggies.Any way you make it  it's a nice hot meal,perfect for a chill autumn day.

The first thing to do is choose a crust. Does the family like those ready made meat pies?Then your best bet is a flaky pie crust. This is the best for absorbing the gravy along with providing a tasty outer shell, perfect for dipping into gravy. Puff pastry is great if you don't have time to make the exterior. You can always buy Pepperidge Farm's.it also gives a different flavor and texture to the pie, imparting a light, buttery taste with a super flaky crust, not unlike that of Beef Wellington. If you want 'a traditional shepherd's pie then use only a top crust of mashed potatoes as they do in Great Britain.The mash actually gets crusty and it's wonderful in sopping up the pie's juices. You could blend in  some chives  or the scantest amount of garlic to give it more flavor and color. Home chefs may want to think outside the box and use a cornbread crust. This is mostly used for chili pot pies or Mexican beef pies , and like the shepherd's pie crust is only layered on top. Of course the recipe should be remedied if there are gluten allergies,  Go for the paleo crust  then - a combination of ground almonds and cashews bound together with coconut oil.

What should go into a meat pie? Leftovers if you have them. Any London Broil or roast beef would be the start of a perfect filling. Many have used what was left of their holiday turkeys.Chicken can also be used and if you don't have the time, use  Swanson's Chicken a la  King  which also has peas and carrots in it. You can also make the French Canadian meat pie , tortiere with ground pork .It can also add ground veal and beef to it as well for more flavor.What about vegans? Surprisingly tofu is actually a tasty filling. You just have to use the extra firm kind  or it will get mushy and fall apart. A mix of mushrooms is another excellent meatless choice too.  Any pot pie has to have a good amount of veggies  for  added color and flavor.Most include the usual mix of carrots and peas however you can mix in some different ones such as  lima beans and spinach for variety. All fillings should be first cooked as a stew so the pies are filled with a rich  gravy. Any filled pie can be frozen and saved for another day but you have to under bake it about ten minutes and then let it cool off. It then can be stored in fridge for a few weeks,


A home made meat or vegan pie is a great chill chaser during these autumn days.Make them for the family for a nice and tasty way to warm up. They'll appreciate a ribsticking chicken or shepherd's pie after a brisk day out.

Saturday, October 17, 2015

Hearty And Soy

Do vegetarians and vegans eat enough to be healthy? Many think they're deprived because they've eschewed meat along with dairy and eggs. Surprisingly these soy lovers are well fed and have a variety of different dishes to choose from. from breakfast to snacks.They're not starving, thanks to to an ever expanding range of vegetarian products.

With the holidays coming up people wonder what their vegetarian friends and family will eat. After all the highlight of any Thanksgiving meal is a burnished turkey  with the trimmings while Christmas dinner features a pink, juicy ham.There is tofurkey after all and it's far from the joke people think it is.it has improved over the years and the taste and texture is similar to an actual Tom Turkey.The company Tofurky has an excellent array of "meats' and dishes. They even have a feast that includes all the holiday goodies, including brownies and even Tofurkey cards. The company has a roll with a stuffing interior and a gravy packet.The company also is known for their hot dogs which do taste like the real thing. They also have Jumbo dogs for those who like the big ballpark franks along with kielbasa and chorizo. Vegans can enjoy Bolognese sauce again thanks to their meat crumbles. Many other companies, like Morningstar Farms also has them as well and they are versatile. Home chefs can make chilis or Sloppy Joes with them, two hearty dishes for the chilly days ahead..

The other aforementioned company, Morningstar Farms is the giant in soy products. They are chock full of choices for hamburgers even recently adding spicy Indian flavor to their repertoire . They also have great fun foods, that are perfect for parties or a let loose Saturday supper.They have garden veggie  nuggets which would please anyone meat lover from age three to one hundred.There is also enchiladas which are a great quick lunch  or dinner. Both companies have a section just on recipes and these are separated by meals and appetizers. You could make bacon double cheeseburgers with patties along with soy cheese and soy bacon.. Try a homemade pepperoni pizza with soy slices  or a cheesy beef crumble..Create a meat free Eggs Benedict with soy ham and soy scramble.   Vegans and vegetarians can go to any tailgating party and come back stuffed, thanks to Tofurky's brats  and Morningstar Farms corn dogs.Bring a few burgers along to convert the most die hard meat lovers. It's easy to do. There's no turning back once you try soy.

Vegans and vegetarians are not starving.They have a wide variety of different products to choose from, for any meal or snack. They are not only getting  flavorful dishes but also nutritional and filling ones too. .


Friday, October 16, 2015

An Apple Picking Outing

This is the season for apple picking .It can be a fun day of enjoying the crisp fall air and having the last picnic of the season.Many orchards have picnic tables set up along with stands selling all sorts of foods.The best part is th e picking itself. Everyone will enjoy it  - if done right.

One of the most important aspects of a day outdoors is the right clothing. October days run the gamut from summery to chilly and sometimes the temps change mid day. Be ready. A nippy day may heat up into one befitting July or August. It's OK to have both jeans, capris and shorts along. Everyone can wear their favorite tee but have a hoodie on hand if you or the little ones start feeling cold. Sneakers or even mocs are a must. Don't let your teens and tweens wear flip flops , no matter how comfortable or cool they feel. It's not safe. Fields have burrs and sharp twigs along with any stray nails left from any construction. Bring sun block too and lip balm.It may be the fall but the sun's rays are still strong and harmful. You can bring hats or visors if you want to protect your head and sunglasses to shield eyes from bright sunlight.Most orchards will supply pickers with bushel baskets or burlap sacks for their bounty. so you don't have to worry about bringing them. Just make sure there's plenty of room in your trunk for apples and whatever else you've picked.

This day out is the perfect day for a picnic. Always bring water along because picking is thirsty work. Juice boxes are a must if there are kids, as are bottles of unsweetened ice tea and sparkling water. Bring a thermos of hot tea, coffee or chocolate if it's a nippy day. You could even fill it with hot soup too. Bring hearty sandwiches along since both the brisk air and all that reaching and walking can work up an appetite.Have Kaiser rolls stuffed with ham and cheese or roast beef.  You can add mayo to them too,now that the weather isn;t sweltering which can spoil the spread. Also pack homemade macaroni and potato salad too to round out the meal.Power bars and pretzels are great snacks to bring along too. Many orchards do have stands that sell hot dogs and soda. Some like Colt's Neck New Jersey's Delicious Orchards show case everything from Serrano ham to fresh baked breads and rolls. Anyone can easily buy their picnic food there and have freshly made customized sandwiches.. The kids may want to snack on their bounty on the ride home. Thoroughly wash all apples before hand with extra bottles of water.

Nothing is more fun than a day of apple picking. Make it truly great and enjoyable with the right gear and a hearty lunch. Then get ready to pick!!!

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Chicken And Jam

A good meal should have one simple classic dish and one complex highly flavored one. The new York Times Food section delivered this yesterday in two recipes from two of their star writers. Melissa Clark gives us hints and instructions on how to create the perfect roast chicken while David Tanis has a great recipe for Moroccan herbed jelly. Bring them together for a dinner party for a widely varied meal, full of flavors and textures.

Novice home chefs would do well by reading  A Good Appetite in yesterday's New York Times' food section.Melissa Clark show how to easily roast a chicken. It starts with a trip to your local supermarket or butcher's shop and try to get the best, usually a free range , antibiotic bird is the best choice. Once you bring it home, then salt it.It should b brined about a day before the actual roasting. Also leave it uncovered  in the fridge so the skin can dry out a it Doing this gives the finished roast a nce golden, burnished look.For flavoring, salt and pepper  = that goes without saying - but also herbs. Try the "twiggy" ones like rosemary, bay leaves and thyme. These will release less moisture than other herbs.If you prefer a lemony flavor , then use curls of lemon rind as opposed to lemon wedges.You can truss or tie up  the legs if you want but it really doesn't male a difference. Ms. Clark recommends using a sauce such as chimichurri or BĂ©arnaise, but personally I'd go with just the plain  chicken. A roast chicken is flavorful on it's own.

You could make David Tanis. herbed Moroccan jam to go with the roast. The recipe was taken from Paula Wolfert's 1973 cookbook, "Couscous And Other Good Food From Morocco."It's not a jam in the traditional sense, it refers to the slow cooking down of ingredients. It's a favorite dish of acclaimed chef Russell, Moore of Camino Restaurant in Oakland, California and he has put it in his newly released cookbook "This Is Camino" He has tweaked the recipe  so that instead of using foraged greens it uses the more domesticated ones such as lettuce along with parsley and carrots. Kale and broccoli rabe are also added along with celery tops and cilantro. Spice and heat come in the form of cumin and hot chiles.The jam method begins with first steaming the greens, completely drying them out and then cooking the down in  pepper infused olive oil.The process only takes ten to fifteen minutes and then you can be served. Finish with a squeeze of fresh lemon. Mr. Tanis recommends serving it with pita but if you want try it as a sauce with Ms. Clark's roast chicken if you want.

Try  Melissa Clark's roasted chicken recipe for an  elegant dish. Serve it or have it follow Dave Tanis' exotic herbed jelly .They're a perfect blend of simple and complex, great for dinner or even supper.