Homemade To The Rescue

There's nothing like a homey baked dish at supper time. It could be a baked dish or homemade sausage. These are guaranteed to chase those mid winter chills and blues away.They're relatively easy to make for yourself or for  a weekend crowd..


David Tanis wrote about the rice  in his A City Kitchen column in yesterday's New York Ties Food section. He basically raided his pantry to create a tasty winter dish , perfect on these cold evenings. He does use carnaroli rice instead of Arborio although you can use the last as well.The reason for the carnaroli is that it has a higher starch content and makes it ideal for turning into a bake. More flavor comes in the form of saffron, leeks and onions. Mr. Tanis  also adds thinly sliced winter  squash for texture and more favor, recommending kabocha or Hubbard. Since this is like baked mac , different cheeses are  added, this in  he forms of both Gruyere and ricoota. Fresh grated Parmesan is also thrown in  to give some spark and then the bake is poured in a buttered casserole dish. Since this is a riff on America's classic .Mr Tanis add a layer of bread crumbs to make it crunchy.It's baked for 25 minutes until browned.It's good on it's own  but you can add a green salad and a glass of any white wine to round it out.

Melissa Clark also gives us a home made comfort food in yesterday's  A Good Appetite column as well. It is green chorizo, a specialty of the Toluca region of Mexico. It is an easy sausage to make, great for novice home chefs., There's no meat grinder to deal with or sausages casings to figure out. It's a crumbly kind that can be served with veggies or even eggs as a super spicy huevos rancheros.Ms. Clark got the recipe from Chef Alex Stupak who makes the treat with serrano and poblano chilis, green chilis that will give the sausage a nice verdant hue.Unlike the rice bake, this is a bit time consuming , because the chilis as well as garlic have to be roasted for  six to twelve minutes before mixing. The recipe also comes with a caveat. Wear gloves when removing stems and seeds. These are potent and can cause skin irritations. Mix these and oregano, along with coriander and cumin seeds with the pork.Again wear gloves to avoid any rashes.It can be kept overnight in the fridge or stored in the freezer for a month  before cooking. Ms. Clark uses the sausage crumbles in a black bean stew.

This is the weather for homey dishes. They could be in the form of a sophisticated yet cozy rice bake or a spicy green chorizo, that can be used in a variety of dishes from stews to omelets. Both are delicious chill chasers to make the mid winter bearable.

Vegan Dining Respun

Vegetarian dining is always often greeted with an upturned nose or a sneer. Many think it's a variety of tofu or veggie dishes done wrong. However in the last twenty to twenty five years meat and dairy free dining has taken on a more haute cuisine demeanor. A new generation of chefs is taking ordinary veggies to a whole new level of eating.

This is the case of chef Amanda Cohen , famed creator of the trendy lower East Side  restaurant Dirt Candy. She and the recently updated eatery were profiled in today's New York Times Wednesday Food section. The article was written by Food regular Jeff Gordonier  and it explored different aspects of vegetarian cooking, It is not the menu of deprivation with a stern lecture about saving  the    planet. Instead it's a celebration of all things green. CHef Cohen cooks with butter cream and eggs too, something most vegetarian chefs shun, (dishes at Dirt Candy can be prepared two ways, one with animal based ingredients and without them for the truly vegan). She also has her ingredients delivered to her  as she has  no time to visit Manhattan's many farmer's markets. They're not all organic but they are accessible and something her fans can recreate at home.

Vegetarianism has always been a North Star in Chef Cohen's life. she turned to it when she was a Toronto teenager(although she harbored a soft spot for oysters and breaded sweetbreads). Dirt Candy was created because she became tired of the usual , dull and depressing veggie platters most restaurants reserve for non meat eaters.At first she turned to the great chef Charlie Trotters' cookbook about vegetables for inspiration.It paid off. There is the portobello mousse, carrots that are pickled and jerked and then served with a Memphis barbecue.There is even a vegetable ice cream salad.Mr. Gordonier even includes a flavor bomb recipe from her. Its a frozen cube of cilantro,parsley , Thai basil along with spinach , garlic and peeled ginger. The greens are then blanched and then put into an ice bath.The greens are then pureed and poured into an ice cube tray. Use the frozen blocks in stir fry or just for reheated rice,It can even work well with any meat or seafood too.

Vegetarian cuisine has been turned up a notch thanks to innovative chefs like Amanda Cohen. Veggies are not only revered , they're reimagined into new dishes..It's achance to rethink the belief of only eating greens.

A Little Help With Dinner

There' are days when you don't feel like going whole hog when making dinner,You had a busy day or it was spent doing strenuous chores. This is when home chefs need a little help with making dinner. Call  in classic aides such as Hamburger Helper  Underwood devilled meats and any canned soup to create a tasty meal that's full of flavor not full of work

Sometimes it is hard to whip up a nutritious meal from scratch.If you're too tired to cook then try Hamburger Helper. This is a quick way to have a hearty  hot dish that the kids will love.It just browning ground chuck or even soy crumbles in a skillet and adding sauce and pasta.There are recipes out there where you can make your own from scratch. They're slightly more labor intensive and if you have the energy go for it. If not then make the real deal.There are so many different types that you can make with chicken , beef or  tuna. Srve with a nice veggie loaded salad and you have a good weekday meal. Another quick dinner is pasta with jarred sauce. Yes, it's not as good as the homemade kind  but homemade sauce is labor intensive. It's easier and quicker just to unscrew a lid and pour premade sauce into a sauce pan. Have it with a broccoli salad and garlic bread to round it out.

A home chef's best friend is any of the Underwood devilled meats. These are wonderful to have around because they are so versatile. My favorite easy dinner go to a ham or chicken salad on toasted croissants. It's just taking one can of either the ham or chicken and blending it  well with two tablespoons of  mayo. Add a heavy dash of tarragon for the chicken and celery seed for the ham for extra flavor. This mix also makes a great cracker topper if you're in need of instant hors d'ouevres.Underwood also makes  roast beef and liverwurst versions too as well as a corned beef  one.You can use any of them to also fill wraps. Add some chopped veggies like broccoli , tomatoes and onions along with cheese to make a quick supper . A super easy hot meal is soup. Always have a few cans on hand for those nights when just opening a can is a chore. to make this simple meal special also have some Ritz crackers or better yet, warmed crusty rolls and butter as extras.


There are days when a home cooked hot dinner is just not feasible. Rely on aids such as Hamburger helper , devilled ham or canned soup. They'll help in creating an easy but filling meal your family will love.

Winter Fuels

Cold weather almost dictates that we eat more than we usually would just to provide the fuel to keep going during these frigid times.The problem is we reach for sugar and fat laden foods and drinks instead of going healthy. The best bet is reaching for the same fuels we do in the summer. The healthy stuff is always the best.

Most of us reach for a hot cocoa .  This is fine , comfort drink, perfect once in a while, after a day after shoveling. However it's loaded with sugar That  doubles if you pile on marshmallows and whipped cream on the cocoa   It is true that the winter dehydrates us (just look at how much  body and hand lotion you go through right now ) but don't just drink anything like it , soda or a sugary coffee drink.Think water or a healthy juice like the BAI 5 brand. Another choice is hot herbal tea.A good chamomile or peppermint work just as well as a soothing hot chocolate without all those extra calories. Any herbal tea is perfect to drink before bedtime. There's no caffeine to give you a second wind and most are blends that bring on feelings of peacefulness and restfulness. Choose these too when you go to your favorite coffee shop. Again they're not loaded with whipped cream or syrups  yet still warm you up. If you must have a sweetened drink, then add natural dark honey to it.

We tend to eat more in during these cold snaps too. Many pile on the calories , feeling the fatter you are the less you'll feel the cold. That's not true.Your body  deserves to be fed healthy foods no matter what the season.Take advantage of the cold weather to create homemade soups and stews. You can start off with any kind of stock from vegetable to chicken to beef and fish. Add an assortment of beans, veggies and whole wheat pasta or brown rice . A great chill chaser along with being  heart healthy is chili. It's chock full of so many good nutrients from proteins to all important vitamins and minerals. Another booster is Vitamin D foods. There tends to be more cloudy days now and we don't receive the amount of this all important vitamin. Choose rich in Omega 3 foods like salmon, mackerel and egg yolks to combat this.. Beta carotene is another needed nutrient and is found in yams, carrots and sweet potatoes. Bake sweet potato chips with olive oil and sea salt for a fun good for you snack. If you are craving a sweet then go for an oatmeal raisin cookie.These have fiber and are usually made with brown sugar and whole wheat flour instead of the usual bad white stuff.

Cold weather requires fuel. Feed your body with good for it drinks and foods to run properly. You'll feel better and ready to conquer those snowy days and icy blasts..

The Perfect Party Cookbook

Everyone loves a good party, whether it's a tailgater or an at home Oscar bash.Nothing beats fun appetizers and hors d'ouevres or simply elegant meals. with it comes witty conversation, good drinks and a chance to meet new people or reacquaint with old friends. Luckily there is a new cookbook and guide to help out with everything party from what to make to what to wear.

The book is Confessions Of A Serial Entertainer ( Gibb Smith Publishers)and it's a novel approach to party giving.Written by Steven Stolman who is more known for his interior and women's clothing designs ,it is a witty and fun romp through some of the best party food recipes ever. I absolutely LOVE this book and recommend every home chef go out and buy it.(it would also make a nice housewarming or bridal shower gift)There is some great advice about how to dress when going to and throwing parties. There are also tips about what to bring as well along with when it's appropriate to trot out the family silverware. Mostly this is a party and dinner book and Mr. Stolman's recipes reflect this. He has them grouped according to events, from tail gate party to seders. with easy to make dishes . Mr Stolman is not a chef but he does like to create and cook.The ingredients are easy to get and the dishes, from breakfast rings to cheese puffs are easy to execute.

The recipes are simple and fun .Any home chef can recreate them. I love the easy as pie Mater's Mess spread, a mix of cream cheese and other ingredients. A dap of it on any kind of cracker or Melba toast is a great hors d'ouevre. along with being a great picnic spread. some of the dishes a e old school like Dr Nagy's Pate This is .a homemade  foie gras that would be nice for a fancy at home cocktail party.The dips too belong in a more glamorous era where drinks were mixed in silver shakers and there was a waft of Chanel Number 5 in the air.The book is not all fun snacks. There are dinners for the boss and seders that have traditional dishes such as  rib roast and a choice of kugels. The most interesting are the winter dishes There is a savory bread pudding made with whole wheat bread and tomatoes. Broccoli is pureed into a creamy mash, perfect with any roast. summer is also  included in the Al fresco section with an easy to construct  paella  and a shrimp salad.Mr. Stolman also includes dessert recipes like a flourless chocolate cake along with one bowl gingerbread cake.

If you re a party giver , then COnfessions Of A Serial Entertainer is for you.It is chock full of great recipes guaranteed to make any home gathering a stand out event. It is a worthy addition to any home chef's library.

Slow Cooking Gourmet Style

Crockpot cooking usually suggests a hominess that's full of pot luck dinners and Saturday night get togethers. However you can take slow cooking to a new level with more sophisticated recipes and  more complex ingredients. It's not just chili and Swedish meatballs anymore. It's sophisticated fare worthy of any dinner party.

It was the subject of an article in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. Sam Sifton experimented with it  and different recipes (and to be honest you can also adapt Melissa Clark's tangine recipe from her A Good Appetite piece for this as well). Slow cookers can be temperamental dishes cooked in it may start off well with good intentions but six or seven hours later you get mush at best, goo at worst.As Mr. Sifton found out the hard way, just chucking ingredients in it and cooking for six to seven hours is not a good idea. The best amount of time is five to seven hours tops. even four hours will produce a better result.Also prepping is a good idea too. There is a debate about braising any meat used to give it some color. Mr. Sifton recommends it. Another hint is not to use too much liquid which will make the  recipe soupy. Be sparing with it.

Mr. Sifton gives two recipes. One is a Vietnamese style slow cooked pork tacos,. This is a riff on CorinneTrang recipe for wok fried rib tips.He uses a pork shoulder that has been marinated in  a mix of hoisin and fish sauces.There is also a tablespoon of sriracha sauce for heat along with fresh garlic and ginger.The pork is first precooked in a five minute saute to give it color. It is then put into the slow cooker after a scant amount  of the hoisin sauce is poured into the slow cooker's bottom.It is cooked for five to seven hours until the meat is so tender it can be shredded with a fork. Mr Sifton adds a green cabbage slaw that's chock full of other veggies as a filler to go with the pork. He also includes a cake recipe. Baking in a slow cooker is tricky at best . The batter doesn't always cook through which leaves a raw middle not to mention burnt edges.Mr. Sifton got the recipe from Momufuko's great pastry chef, Christina Tosi. It is a buttermilk one that also has the addition of brown sugar.It should be cooked for four to six hours and the result is a dense kind , sort of like a pound cake with caramel edging.

Slow cooking recipes can be sophisticated and fun. It can even cook elegant cakes  along with delicious dishes, worthy of any gourmand. It just takes patience and some prep time to create perfectly cooked meals.

Puerto Rico A Farm To Table Paradise

Puerto Rico is a lush island, with a heritage of fresh fruits and vegetables. Surprisingly it's only now that island chefs are using this bounty. It  is a rich one, teeming with all sorts of varieties. Luckily there is a fresh food movement there that is using this chef's treasure trove.

Regular contributor , Jeff Gordonier , wrote about this in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday Food section. Mr. Gordomier was lucky enough to leave a cold New York  and visit Vieques, Puerto Rico a tiny island directly east of the main one. Vieques is known mostly for the US Navy's bombing ground and an off the beaten path vacation spot. However it is also the home of  el Blok,  a laid back beach hotel and farm to table restaurant. The 'owner Jose Enrique is also  a leader of a loosely knit band of  Puerto Rican cooks, activists and farmers  who came to the same idea that these islands are chock full of fresh fruits and veggies along with endless herbs .Many restaurants  such as Parcela Gastropub, Marmalade and the eatery with Mr. Enrique's name are pushing this tote bag to table thinking. This shouldn't be a new movement yet it is, thanks to the US's involvement in Puerto Rico' s farming industry . Thanks to Operation Bootstrap in the Post war 1940;s island farming was shut down and industry was encouraged..It did create a much needed middle class however it also meant a seismic shift away from the agrarian heritage that influenced Puerto Rican cuisine. Everything now was coming from farms in California and Ohio, as opposed to the gardens just in the neighborhood. Veggies and fruits were expensive too and did not always arrive fresh

Luckily this is all changing, as the world rediscovers locovore dining. El Departmento de la Comida was born four and a half years ago.Local organic produce are now being brought in from private pinprick gardens and farms to a warehouse in the main city.where it is resold to local restaurants and cafes.. Many may be surprised to learn that the island can yield up broccoli, carrots, okra and zucchini along with tarragon and dill. Puerto Rico is also known for coffee, in fact most of Europe drank coffee that came from the island's coffee farms. A new generation of chefs is discovering Puerto Rico's rich green bounty  and they are changing the oft dull and trite dishes such as tostones and mofungo. Fresh butterflied  snapper is on the menu at Mr. enriques where diners are often seated next to the fisherman who caught it. Oysters , normally not associated with island cuisine are now hot thanks to this movement Pork chops are drizzled in fresh sugar cane juice while dessert could be a ball of fresh made guava ice made with just picked fruit.It's different and much healthier than the usual fried fare sometimes associated with Puerto Rican cuisine.

The locovore movement is helping this bounteous island, known as the rich port to discover its' fruits and vegetables. The cuisine is going back to its agrarian roots where fresh veggies and fruits made up the menu.It's a refreshing embrace to the past and the future too.