This time of year menorahs are lit, warming the winter's night. It means that Hanukkah, the Festival of Lights is about to begin. It also means that a festival of eating is also about to start. For centuries mother s and grandmothers have delighted children with all sorts of treats from latkes to brisket. This is the stuff of happy memories even during the bleakest of times.
latkes are an ancient food.They were made to celebrate not just the freedom fighters, the Maccabee brothers who fought the Greco Syrians but also to celebrate the miracle afterwards. After the skirmish, Judah Maccabee had wanted to get rid of the pagan deities the Greeks had se tup. He had also wanted to rid th e temple of the defiled oil used for lighting the menorah. They had found untouched oil, but only enough for one night. The oil lasted for eight nights hence the reason Hanukkah is an eight day festival. The word itself is from Old Hebrew and means to dedicate or possibly educate. For over two thousand years it has been celebrated. Latkes are from this time period however were made with cheese and egg. It was the introduction of the New World potato to Europe that forever changed the latke's basic recipe. The name itself is from Russian, from the Ukranian oldke . This is derived from the old Russian oladya which is derived ironically from the Greek eladia, or little oily thing .
Everyone has their spin on latkes. The best ones are made with starchier potatoes that produce a crunchy, chewy pancake. If you want a more golden latke then use duck eggs which also provide a richer taste. For a different taste use coarsely minced scallions instead of onions. Olive oil is a must for frying. it produces the best results and doesn't burn the way butter does. Latkes can be made up to eight hours in advance of frying if you're busy. Serve with sour cream or applesauce. (this is what this shiksa grew up on).
Hanukkah is the time to celebrate the Maccabees victory over the Greeks and their polytheism. It;s also the time to cherish warm foodie memories of latkes and light on a cold winter's evening.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Panettone - Fruitcake Done Right
Mention fruitcake to anyone and you're sure to get a wrinkled nose or gagging sounds. Let's face it. No one likes a leaden loaf fill with fruit that looks like it was picked during the Neolithic era. However leave it to the Italians to save this culinary reject and turn it into something chic and class. Panettone is the perfect holiday fruitcake. It can be served with everything from breakfast coffee to after dinner wine.
Panettone is a true Milanese invention. The name itself means "large loaf" in Italian but legend has it it was either named for the baker Toni, it or for the an assistant who helped bake it.Legend also has it that it was first served at the wedding of noted Milanse nobleman and falconer , Ughetto Atellani to for Toni's daughter Adalgisa. There's also the Christmas legend that a cook had nothing to give out for the holy day so he concocted a bread full of candied fruit and raisins. Not wanting to take credit he said his assistant Toni made it, hence pan de Toni or panettone. A few centuries later, Angelo Motta , a Milanese baker produced it fro the masses in 1919. Another baker , Gioacchino Alamagna did the same and a rivalry broke out. Motta is credited with giving the bread its' modern look, He let the dough rise to three times the normal height for bread during a period of twenty hours. (usually most bread is left to rise for only twelve. hours before baking). The average panettone is about ten inches high and almost impossible to toast in a toast in a toaster. Every slice has to be halved to have it warmed.
How to eat panettone? My one cousin in Piedmonte's Val Susa, Pat, scoops out the middle and fills it with a sweetened form of marscapone cheese. Sabayon is also used . It is then served as a fancy dessert with after dinner coffee. In the US my family an d I like it plain with butter slathered on the slices, usually for dessert. You can make French toast with any leftover panettone but go easy on the syrup afterwards. It's also a delicious base for bread pudding too.
This Christmas don't settle for the usual fruitcake. Get a panettone for yourself. It'll be the best X-mas gift ever!
Panettone is a true Milanese invention. The name itself means "large loaf" in Italian but legend has it it was either named for the baker Toni, it or for the an assistant who helped bake it.Legend also has it that it was first served at the wedding of noted Milanse nobleman and falconer , Ughetto Atellani to for Toni's daughter Adalgisa. There's also the Christmas legend that a cook had nothing to give out for the holy day so he concocted a bread full of candied fruit and raisins. Not wanting to take credit he said his assistant Toni made it, hence pan de Toni or panettone. A few centuries later, Angelo Motta , a Milanese baker produced it fro the masses in 1919. Another baker , Gioacchino Alamagna did the same and a rivalry broke out. Motta is credited with giving the bread its' modern look, He let the dough rise to three times the normal height for bread during a period of twenty hours. (usually most bread is left to rise for only twelve. hours before baking). The average panettone is about ten inches high and almost impossible to toast in a toast in a toaster. Every slice has to be halved to have it warmed.
How to eat panettone? My one cousin in Piedmonte's Val Susa, Pat, scoops out the middle and fills it with a sweetened form of marscapone cheese. Sabayon is also used . It is then served as a fancy dessert with after dinner coffee. In the US my family an d I like it plain with butter slathered on the slices, usually for dessert. You can make French toast with any leftover panettone but go easy on the syrup afterwards. It's also a delicious base for bread pudding too.
This Christmas don't settle for the usual fruitcake. Get a panettone for yourself. It'll be the best X-mas gift ever!
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Torrone, An Italian Christmas Treat
Christmas in any part of Italy is amazing. There are so many lush varieties of holiday foods that it's like a foodie wonderland. Rome has amazing Hanukkah dishes, while Naples serves up its' traditional thirteen fish dinner on Christmas Eve. Everyone has panetone and pan d'oro. Kids have especially good with a big treat - torrone from Befana, Italy's female version of Santa Claus. This is a wonderful chewy nougat that's eaten this time of year.
Torrone has its roots in ancient Rome where it was literally served up as foods to the gods. It was made and still is made with the basic,s honey egg whites and pistachios or hazelnuts. Squares of it were presented in Roman temples to the various deities for their help or as thanks.Torrone didn't get its' name until 1141 when a pastry chef made it in honor of one of the Sforza's (one of Italy's most powerful medieval families ) married. The marriage was held in Cremona, in central Italy where it was known for its' big tower or torrone. The chef made the candy in the shape of it and guests were impressed with this and the treat's smooth, sweet taste. Nowadays Italians put their own spin on it. Torrone is made with Strega in the Abruzzi region while Sicilians flavor it with orange and lemon.
Torrone can be made at home but it is labor intensive. You have to use egg whites and honey - not an easy combination at times and boil to the soft ball stage. It also requires wafers similar to what is given out in Holy Communion. Like all candy its' best to make torrone on a cool dry day. Make it on a warm humid one and you'll have candy that "weeps" . Clear fluid will ooze out of it creating a sticky mess. Sometimes it's best to stick with the store bought ones.
Torrone is a great treat this time of year. It's a reminder of why the Italians do candy right and produce this amazing mixture of just honey and egg whites.
Torrone has its roots in ancient Rome where it was literally served up as foods to the gods. It was made and still is made with the basic,s honey egg whites and pistachios or hazelnuts. Squares of it were presented in Roman temples to the various deities for their help or as thanks.Torrone didn't get its' name until 1141 when a pastry chef made it in honor of one of the Sforza's (one of Italy's most powerful medieval families ) married. The marriage was held in Cremona, in central Italy where it was known for its' big tower or torrone. The chef made the candy in the shape of it and guests were impressed with this and the treat's smooth, sweet taste. Nowadays Italians put their own spin on it. Torrone is made with Strega in the Abruzzi region while Sicilians flavor it with orange and lemon.
Torrone can be made at home but it is labor intensive. You have to use egg whites and honey - not an easy combination at times and boil to the soft ball stage. It also requires wafers similar to what is given out in Holy Communion. Like all candy its' best to make torrone on a cool dry day. Make it on a warm humid one and you'll have candy that "weeps" . Clear fluid will ooze out of it creating a sticky mess. Sometimes it's best to stick with the store bought ones.
Torrone is a great treat this time of year. It's a reminder of why the Italians do candy right and produce this amazing mixture of just honey and egg whites.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Gingerbread Houses For You And Me
One of the most enduring symbols of Christmas is the gingerbread house. This is every child's fantasy, a yummy house decorated with candy. For adults it brings back memories of simpler times when life wasn't so complicated. Nowadays there are many variations on this theme. You can do a green ginger bread house or even a condo.
The idea of gingerbread itself goes back to ancient times. The Greeks used to travel to the island of Rhodes for spice cakes made with Middle Eastern ginger. The Crusaders brought it back with them during the Middle Ages where it was given to monks for their baking. In turn the holy men used to bake early forms of gingerbread for the sick. The Germans probably were the first to bake it into squares to form houses. Germany had its' own Lebkuchen guild as early as 1637. It was mentioned in Grimm's fairy tale's with Hansel and Gretel visiting the "hexelhausen" or witch's house. Swiss monks made them in the US in Indiana in 1857. From then on, they have become afirm tradition here in the States.
Nowadays there are endless competitions for making the best or the most unusual gingerbread house. Some bakers have even created them to look like Rhine castles or California ranch houses. Other have baked mini houses to hang on trees. Decorating them is a matter of taste. Use a glue like icing such as royal icing to hold walls and roofs together. Also use this when attaching other candies for windows or decorating as well. You can add M&M's , hard candies, mints, gum drops and licorice to create the perfect gingerbread house. For added fun create a gingerbread family complete with cats and dogs.
The gingerbread house is a reminder of all things wondrous this holiday season. It represents fantasy and fun, along with the magic of Christmas.
The idea of gingerbread itself goes back to ancient times. The Greeks used to travel to the island of Rhodes for spice cakes made with Middle Eastern ginger. The Crusaders brought it back with them during the Middle Ages where it was given to monks for their baking. In turn the holy men used to bake early forms of gingerbread for the sick. The Germans probably were the first to bake it into squares to form houses. Germany had its' own Lebkuchen guild as early as 1637. It was mentioned in Grimm's fairy tale's with Hansel and Gretel visiting the "hexelhausen" or witch's house. Swiss monks made them in the US in Indiana in 1857. From then on, they have become afirm tradition here in the States.
Nowadays there are endless competitions for making the best or the most unusual gingerbread house. Some bakers have even created them to look like Rhine castles or California ranch houses. Other have baked mini houses to hang on trees. Decorating them is a matter of taste. Use a glue like icing such as royal icing to hold walls and roofs together. Also use this when attaching other candies for windows or decorating as well. You can add M&M's , hard candies, mints, gum drops and licorice to create the perfect gingerbread house. For added fun create a gingerbread family complete with cats and dogs.
The gingerbread house is a reminder of all things wondrous this holiday season. It represents fantasy and fun, along with the magic of Christmas.
Monday, December 15, 2008
Toast A Holiday Classic -Egg Nog
One of the richest and tastiest of all the Christmas and New Year's traditions is eggnog. This creamy,boozy brew has been around for centuries, delighting generations at the holidays. There's nothing better than a cup of nog and good friends.
Egg nog is one of America's earliest inventions. It was a variation of milk and wine punches served throughout 17th and 18th Century Europe. The colonists decided to add their own spin by substituting the wine with the ever plentiful rum and the milk with cream. Whole eggs were also added in, to give the drink more body. The name started off as egg and grog and over the years evolved into egg nog. Another theory for the name was that it was first served in a wooden cup called a noggin (which held a mix of Spanish sherry and milk or a sack posset. )It was popular not just at Christmas but at any New Year's open house.
Like our ancestors you can make your own version of this rich drink. Unlike our ancestors, don't wind up with salmonella. Heat the eggs up in a gentle bath for a few seconds.Use a bain marie or double boiler. This will kill off any bacteria that could be there and enables you to have a safe drink. As for cream, I'd recommend whole because you want a rich, frothy brew. As for the alcohol , you can go traditional and add rum . It's probably the best choice be cause of its' sweet flavor which lends an almost caramel undertaste to the nog. Some recipes do call for sherry or bourbon. These give a different spin to your nog and may be too strong for some tastes. You can make an non alcoholic egg nog if you want (perfect for Christmas parties ). Just remember to add sugar and vanilla extract for flavoring.
This is the season for a good cup of egg nog. Toast the holidays with this traditional , creamy drink. It's the perfect way to celebrate with family and friends.
Egg nog is one of America's earliest inventions. It was a variation of milk and wine punches served throughout 17th and 18th Century Europe. The colonists decided to add their own spin by substituting the wine with the ever plentiful rum and the milk with cream. Whole eggs were also added in, to give the drink more body. The name started off as egg and grog and over the years evolved into egg nog. Another theory for the name was that it was first served in a wooden cup called a noggin (which held a mix of Spanish sherry and milk or a sack posset. )It was popular not just at Christmas but at any New Year's open house.
Like our ancestors you can make your own version of this rich drink. Unlike our ancestors, don't wind up with salmonella. Heat the eggs up in a gentle bath for a few seconds.Use a bain marie or double boiler. This will kill off any bacteria that could be there and enables you to have a safe drink. As for cream, I'd recommend whole because you want a rich, frothy brew. As for the alcohol , you can go traditional and add rum . It's probably the best choice be cause of its' sweet flavor which lends an almost caramel undertaste to the nog. Some recipes do call for sherry or bourbon. These give a different spin to your nog and may be too strong for some tastes. You can make an non alcoholic egg nog if you want (perfect for Christmas parties ). Just remember to add sugar and vanilla extract for flavoring.
This is the season for a good cup of egg nog. Toast the holidays with this traditional , creamy drink. It's the perfect way to celebrate with family and friends.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Holiday Candy Land
Even better than holiday cookies are holiday candies. These sweet snacks are just what you need after a hectic day of shopping or gift wrapping. They're also the perfect companion to a hot cup of coffee or tea and a relaxing book. Homemade candies are easy to make and don't have the hassle of a hot oven or a lot of pans and bowls. You can make up a batch without all the fuss and bother.
Chocolate bark is the easiest to make., It's basically melted chocolate spread over a greased cookie sheet. Swirls are made over the top to give it the appearance of a tree's surface. You can add everything form almonds (a good choice) to broken peppermint candies or candy canes. You can also make a peppermint bark using white chocolate and the swirling red food coloring through the candy to give it a true Christmas look.
My favorite candy to make are haystacks These are one of the staples of Jersey shore candy. They're just simply toasted coconut mixed in with melted chocolate chips and a two to three tablespoons of butter. The mix is then dropped into mound son a waxed paper or a greased cookie sheets. There are several variations on them, with some recipes calling for Chinese noodles and almonds along with the coconut. I prefer making mine with dark chocolate and a pound bag of shredded coconut. It's a perfect blend of dark fudge with chewy shreds. Yum.
My one friend is into making truffles for the holidays. She is a master cook and baker, with a history of creating top of the line treats. Lou uses fresh cream and the best cocoa to create mouth water ganaches. Her truffles are better than those at Lilac Chocolates, one of Manhattan's best chocolatiers. Truffles are a more labor intensive candy but worth the effort. There is an easy recipe out there that requires chocolate chips for those not wanting to get too involved. with truffle making process.
T'is the season for treats. Make up a few for you and your family to enjoy this holiday season.
Liz's Haystack Recipe
1 16 oz bag of semi sweet chocolate chips.
2-3 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 12 oz bag of shredded coconut
Melt chocolate and butter or margarine in the microwave for a minute and a half or two minutes (this depends on your microwave) Stir in coconut .until thoroughly blended. Using a tablespoon, drop onto a greased cookie sheet or one covered with waxed paper. You can use two tablespoons to create bigger mounds. Let cool in the fridge or on your porch if you have one. Store in a cool dry place until serving.
Chocolate bark is the easiest to make., It's basically melted chocolate spread over a greased cookie sheet. Swirls are made over the top to give it the appearance of a tree's surface. You can add everything form almonds (a good choice) to broken peppermint candies or candy canes. You can also make a peppermint bark using white chocolate and the swirling red food coloring through the candy to give it a true Christmas look.
My favorite candy to make are haystacks These are one of the staples of Jersey shore candy. They're just simply toasted coconut mixed in with melted chocolate chips and a two to three tablespoons of butter. The mix is then dropped into mound son a waxed paper or a greased cookie sheets. There are several variations on them, with some recipes calling for Chinese noodles and almonds along with the coconut. I prefer making mine with dark chocolate and a pound bag of shredded coconut. It's a perfect blend of dark fudge with chewy shreds. Yum.
My one friend is into making truffles for the holidays. She is a master cook and baker, with a history of creating top of the line treats. Lou uses fresh cream and the best cocoa to create mouth water ganaches. Her truffles are better than those at Lilac Chocolates, one of Manhattan's best chocolatiers. Truffles are a more labor intensive candy but worth the effort. There is an easy recipe out there that requires chocolate chips for those not wanting to get too involved. with truffle making process.
T'is the season for treats. Make up a few for you and your family to enjoy this holiday season.
Liz's Haystack Recipe
1 16 oz bag of semi sweet chocolate chips.
2-3 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 12 oz bag of shredded coconut
Melt chocolate and butter or margarine in the microwave for a minute and a half or two minutes (this depends on your microwave) Stir in coconut .until thoroughly blended. Using a tablespoon, drop onto a greased cookie sheet or one covered with waxed paper. You can use two tablespoons to create bigger mounds. Let cool in the fridge or on your porch if you have one. Store in a cool dry place until serving.
Labels:
bark,
coconut,
ganache,
holiday candy,
peppermint,
truffles
Friday, December 12, 2008
Garlic Bread - Comfort Food For The Holidays
Garlic bread has always held a special place in my heart. It was one of the first foods that I truly fell in love with and was a big part of my childhood. It still is. Who can resist garlic bread though? The golden loaf, , every other slice studded with a small slice of garlic clove, each slice a drift in butter and oil. Then you have the crust, well, oiled and salted down. Garlic bread is perfect for the upcoming holidays. It goes well with red meat or with any pasta dish. It's also good cold with a slab of roast beef on top.
When was this treat first made? Probably early on in Italian households. Garlic grows throughout the Mediterranean so it was almost a no brainer to pair it with a long loaf of crusty and rich olive oil. I'm guessing that my Piedmontese grandmother and great aunts added the butter part as an extra (they were also influenced by the Lombards and their many uses for butter). You can add cheese on garlic bread but that's ruining the taste. The one variation that I'll allow is rubbing the crust with seas salt as opposed to regular salt. This gives more crunch to the crust
Garlic bread is the perfect side to any holiday pasta or red meat dish . It will certainly be a part of my holiday dinners.
When was this treat first made? Probably early on in Italian households. Garlic grows throughout the Mediterranean so it was almost a no brainer to pair it with a long loaf of crusty and rich olive oil. I'm guessing that my Piedmontese grandmother and great aunts added the butter part as an extra (they were also influenced by the Lombards and their many uses for butter). You can add cheese on garlic bread but that's ruining the taste. The one variation that I'll allow is rubbing the crust with seas salt as opposed to regular salt. This gives more crunch to the crust
Garlic bread is the perfect side to any holiday pasta or red meat dish . It will certainly be a part of my holiday dinners.
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