Wednesday, June 5, 2019

The Culinary Meteor of Mexico

There is a new star of North American cuisine - Gabriela Camara.She is not only known for her amazing restaurants but also her amazing treatment of her staff. People will be knowing more of her story thanks to a new documentary about her along with a new cookbook.

Julia Moskin wrote about Chef Camara in today's New York Times Food section. The chef is becoming something of a luminary , thanks to an extensive article in this month's Vogue by Bob Haskell.   Her twenty year old eatery, Contramar,  became the Union  Square Cafe of Mexico City.It was the place to be both seen and enjoy delicious dishes. Her restaurant in San Francisco has garnered long lines and filled dining rooms. Now she is moving back to her native Mexico City where she will also be a member to a new Council of Cultural Diplomacy, composed of people who bring global prestige to Mexican culture. The groups includes artists and academics of all sorts, such as the architect Enrique Norten along with other luminaries such as the renown ballerina Elsa Carillo Cabrera and the first female president of the Colegio de Mexico. She also will advise Mexican president Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, a lifelong family friend, on food policy. He has also appointed her to oversee the country's tourism board which she has whittled down tremendously.

That aside, Chef Camara is an excellent chef , with absolutely no cooking school background . For her restaurants she has recreated her favorite dishes from the Mexican west coast. She spent her childhood at beach side restaurants , enjoying the combination of seafood and local spices and produce.There will be tostadas - a kind of crispy pancake topped with raw fish and avocado slivers and hints of chipotle. Her restaurant features butterflied grilled fish painted with red and green salsas and aguachiles - bright citrus-y ceviches. All the elements shine. There is a taco recipe with the article - but not the typical one served in Taco Bell or Chipotle. It is tacos al pastor , the filling is pork tenderloin thinly sliced into slices and shreds. it's marinated in a mix of tangy juices such as orange and lime, zinged up with slew of chiles, from  cascabel to anchos. For the traditional Mexican heat one or two chiles de arbol which offer a bright clean heat. Tomatoes and white onions are added to this as are two staples of the cuisine - oregano and cumin. The peppers are simmered in water and then allowed to soak. Later they're pureed with the other ingredients and then poured over the tenderloin . Marinate overnight and then cook  pineapple with sugar.This will go over the tostada for a sweet and savory festival of taste.

The world is about to experience the best Mexican dishes, thanks to Gabriela Camara. She brings a new spin on old traditions, using ancient ingredients on a new generations of  North Americans. She is more than a representative of her country. She is the bright star of Mexican cuisine.

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