The Heritage of Jerusalem Artichokes

The Jerusalem artichoke is one of the timeless symbols of the Roman Jews and their ghetto. It has been associated with both for centuries.It is more than a part of their  diets, It's part of their lives  - and now that part is being challenged by rabbis.

How did this all start? Jason Horowicz who covers the goings on in The Vatican and Rome for the New York Times. delved into this controversy in the paper's Food section yesterday. Blame it on the worms and other parasites found.  These creatures are considered trayf or non-kosher. They ate through the choke's tender heart and soft inner leaves rendering the globes inedible to Jews. The head of imports for Israel's rabbinate, Yitzhak Arazi says it's not politics it's just Jewish religious law.The dictate came in the middle of Passover which upset many of the Roman Jews. where the  fried artichoke has been a staple since the 1600's. Artichoke lover, and defender .Umberto Pavoncello, owner of the restaurant Nonna Betta. cites that rabbis back then must have determined that the vegetable was impervious to pests and this deemed edible.  They couldn't change a then ancient law  that would allow them to include artichokes on a whim. Not all cities have stood strong . A Milan branch of the kosher restaurant Ba'ghetto has pulled them from their menu. To be honest what's considered kosher and treyf is up to individual communities. There is no standard universal dietary  laws as there are with Islam.One rabbi, Umberto Piperno, is hoping to patent an ultrasound bug repellent that would be like an "iron dome" for growing  artichokes.

Fried artichokes can be made by anybody. Home chefs .can take the ones from the local grocery and turn them into the crispy Roman treat. The recipe included calls for eight American globe artichokes. Home chefs will need a sharp paring knife or one called a bird's beak 's knife.This has a longer and more hooked blade than the average knife. Using either one, shave off the choke's tough outer leaves until the tender green or yellow leaves appear. The thorny top also has to be cut off, namely about an inch. It's then trimming the stem near the heart,leaving about two inches of it.Plunge the artichokes into  a bowl of lemon juice and rinds  mixed with water to prevent browning.Use olive oil for frying. An electric fryer or a deep cast iron pot can be used. As the oil is heating to about 325 degrees F, take the chokes out of the lemon water and dry them. Tap the flat part against the table to loosen the leaves and them fry. Rub in salt and pepper and then fry for fifteen minutes. They should be bronze in color and a fork can easily pierce the stem.Remove them and drain well. Take out the hearts (which can also be eaten) Leave them stem side up for a few hours and then fry again, heating the oil to 350 degrees F. Fry to crisp them again and then serve with a sprinkle of salt.

No matter what they are, Jerusalem artichokes are still a delectable , light meal. No controversy can mar their delicate flavor or crisped leaves. They are a true delight, full of taste and history.