Wednesday, May 30, 2018

Shyness and Sweetness Dolester Miles

To win the  James Beard award for pastry is an amazing feat. Usually the honor is bestowed on famed bakers whose' creations are known world wide. This year it went to a shy, self taught pastry chef from Alabama - not New York or Chicago or LA. The winner , Dolester Miles, is making a big impact in an understated way.

She was the subject of an article written by Kim Severson in today's New York Times Food section. Her recipes and work beat out ones by Margarita Manzke and Meg Galus. She had been nominated twice before but it was the third time that worked. She was in disbelief when her name called. It was a victory not just for her but for the restaurant where she worked , Highlands. It is a pricey restaurant located in Birmingham , Alabama .Chef Miles was not unlike Doria Ragland, Meghan Markle's mother - a secondary character in a larger , predominantly white narrative who emerged as an African-American beacon. Talent knows no color. Ms. Miles grew up, surrounded by excellent bakers she was taught by her mother.Cora Mae Miles, and aunt. Her aunt, Queen Ester Harris was the kind of woman who might make nine cakes , with them all going to people in nursing homes. Her brown sugar poundcake was a favorite growing up. The recipes were passed down, along with baking advice.

Surprisingly Ms. Miles background was not initially cooking, She studied computer science at college and left when her daughter arrived. It was at this time that Frank Sitt, the chef and owner of Highland came to Birmingham. A Southerner, himself, he invested in the community around him, Ms. Miles started working for him in 1981, starting off as a pantry chef dicing and chopping fruits and veggies. Chef Stitt soon recognized her talent with butter and sugar and soon she was creating such desserts as polenta pound cake tiramisu  for his Italian restaurant Bottega and blueberry cobbler for his French eatery Fonfon along with afters for Highlands. She is known for her coconut pecan cake, a take on the Southern coconut cake and her lemon meringue tart.  The recipes are featured in The Times article and they're a treat for home bakers. The cake and filling is loaded with coconut and is moistened with a simple syrup.The lemon meringue has white chocolate melted into it for a different vibe along with a buttery crust.  Both recipes are light and fluffy, the perfect dessert for a summer weekend dinner.

Dolester Miles is a quiet champion, yet her creations speak volumes. She represents both modern and traditional  Southern baking.It's a prize winning meld.

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