Apple Pie For Everyone

One of the best treats of fall is a freshly baked apple pie. Nothing beats the perfect slice , bursting with fruit and spices. The problem is everybody wants a slice - a huge slice which is flattering to the baker. The problem is the baker never gets to have a slice of his or her creation. What to do? Bake a bigger pie..

Julia Moskin tackled this problem in yesterday's  New York Times Food section. She too has had to watch her pies get devoured in one dessert setting with nary any room for leftovers. Her solution? Break free of the tradition of using nine inch pans, used for decades. This was standard in a time when home bakers baked several a day Farm wives baked different kinds, using all sorts of dried or fresh fruits, pecans and hickory nuts  and sometimes crackers and condensed milk. Pie today is different. It's meant as a project, feeding a large  crowd after a dinner party.Ms. Masking recommends ditching the traditional pie plate and use any kind of baking dish. It does have to be two inches deep and be able to hold two and a half to three quarts of fulling and crust.Use heavy ceramic pans,  a skillet or casserole dish. Don't worry about having a rim. The pie 's crust is thick enough to make its' own.  The reason. Make a crust that is thick. Think rolling out a half inch one instead of one that's 1/8 of an inch thick. This is a double crust one . It should be sturdy but have that tenderness . Instead of the traditional lard, Ms. Moskin gives the crust a French twist by adding unsalted butter which will give it a nice "tarte" feel and flavor.

Most home bakers make the mistake of using just one apple type. Break this habit. Too much of one apple sort  will ruin it. Use a mix of tart and sweet varieties. Home bakers can use the ancient varieties such as Bramleys and Pippins or they can go modern with a mix of tart Granny Smiths', Honeycrisps and Pink Ladies, Ginger Golds and Cameos.Ms. Moskin also suggests using McIntosh,Idared or Cortland apples if home bakers want crunch.They're actually a good addition because they break down and help bind the filling. A blend of  textures also helps in creating a delicious, memorable pie. Lemon juice is commonly added to balance out  the sweetness however according to Kate Mcdermott, a professional "pie coach " try unfiltered apple cider vinegar. She also advocates  a shot of liqueur to the mix. Try schnapps or brandy such as French Calvados. For a non alcoholic alternative think cider, cider syrup or just plain apple juice. What about cinnamon? Many home bakers go crazy with it, turning their pies into giant Pop Tarts. A small, even teaspoon will do it even for a big pie along with a pinch of nutmeg and a half a teaspoon of allspice. This last, again can cut the sweetness, giving a nice warm smokiness to the filling.

The best pie is a well made one. Break the traditional recipe by making one for a large crowd. Add a shot of Calvados, vary the apples and cut back on the spices. It'll create a pie that's not only delicious but memorable.