Wednesday, November 18, 2015

More Thanksgiving From The Times

For those of you who missed out on last week's New York Times Food section, there is another one, filled with more advice and different, exciting recipes. Best of all this issue features' not only an homage to Julia Child but also her best Thanksgiving recipes..These last alone are keepers and perfect for establishing new traditions at the holiday table.

Times Food expert Julia Moskin wrote about the another food expert Julia along with the recipes Ms. Child gave us.She interviewed Sheryl Julian , the current food editor at the Boston Globe., about her two Thanksgivings at the Child home. Surprisingly the meal was devoid of all Gallic influence. In fact it was a very simple meal, inspired by Ms. Child''s New England heritage (her mother's line could be traced back to the first Thanksgiving celebrants.) One recipe is genius . It is a kind of "sandwich" involving shaping two boneless turkey breasts around stuffing.It's then wrapped in turkey skin and cheesecloth  and basted with butter. The result is a golden roast that's done in two hours and slices like a dream. She also served early American staples like oysters and pumpkins. Ms. Moskin also includes Ms. Child's recipe, her Aunt Helen's fluffy pumpkin pie. It's a decadent old fashioned kind with heavy cream and bourbon or rum added.There is also a spicy dried fruit sauce that could go with the pie or better yet, topping French style vanilla ice cream.

Another good article from the issue is from Melissa Clark and it involves the second stars of the Thanksgiving feast: the sides. These are not your typical ones. They're bright and zesty, a refreshing breeze after the heaviness of gravy and turkey. She suggests leaving those alone along with the mashed potatoes. There could be a revolt if you change them comes a caveat.One is roasted radishes with anchovies, a kind of bagna calda that would definitely compliment the turkey's sweetness. This could even be a hot appetizer before dinner too. Another is shaved butternut squash with dates,a take on salad with a buttermilk dressing. If guests are still craving green sides then think of  Ms Clark's other recipe, sautéed Brussels sprouts with apple and prosciutto. This last is sautéing sliced apples, preferably Golden Delicious,  with the sprouts. They're then covered with shaved prosciutto and for vegetarians and vegans, shaved Pecorino cheese. Desserts have also been changed up to, thanks to David Tanis.He combines another flavor of the season, chestnut with chocolate in a light , flourless cake..It is made with chestnut flour and chestnuts for an airy flavor,.He took the recipe from cookbook author, Alice Medrich and her chocolate soufflé cake  For those who still want cranberry  Mr. Tanis offers a cranberry curd tart a variation of the French lemon curd one. It still has the same tartness , thanks to the cranberries and a hazelnut crust as opposed to the usual sable or shortbread one.

It's always fun to change up tradition now and then. Home chefs can change their Thanksgiving with the addition of any of these recipes. They're a fun departure from the usual, thanks to the Times.

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