Thursday, April 23, 2015

Fish Fears: Getting Over Them

One of the biggest fears and trepidations home cooks have is cooking fish, from buying it to storing it Then comes the hard choice of how to pan cook it .However there is one way of conquering this phobia. Treat it like any other meat. Handle it the way you would beef, chicken or pork.

This is Julia Moskin's advice in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Her Recipe Lab article give great advice and a simple to follow recipe on pan seared fish, Despite her vast and experienced background, Ms. Moskin has admitted she has qualms about cooking fish,  Most restaurants , especially in New York City, tend to cook any fillet in broth, juice or nage - a white wine herb infused broth (returning fish to water, Ms. Moskin muses).Other chefs prefer oil poaching, a costly way of cooking involving a slow simmer in tons of oil. A less expensive way is en papillote, folding up individual fillets in parchment paper with butter and herbs. It steams the fish and produces a thin broth. The problem is cooking this way is not exciting or that tasty. Searing in oil to try to produce the Maillard reaction is also dismal.The result is overcooked and flavorless fish.

Ms. Moskin sought advice from Chef Mark Usewicz of The Mermaid's Garden in Brooklyn. HIs secret to the perfect home cooked fillet? Butter.However the first step is getting a good , heavy skillet and constant attention. Not bad because the whole process only takes five minutes, The initial seas should be done in either grapeseed, canola or extra extra virgin olive oil because these will not burn at a very high heat.Only a few teaspoons will do the trick. Then add a nut of butter, flip the fillet and baste furiously. You can toss in a few fresh herbs like thyme or tarragon. What is the best fish for this? Try black bass, haddock, fluke for something different. For tradition stick with salmon, striped bass, tilefish or snapper. As far as it stinking up your fridge? Don't worry. If it's been properly prepped from the dock to the supermarket freezer, then there should be no odor or rot. It should last a few days  as would any piece of protein.

A good piece of fish is truly a treat. Cook it simply to bring out its' sweet briny flavor.It will be the best thing ever to  come out of a home kitchen

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