Can anyone improve on a classic restaurant? Can a classic be revamped to fit the current times? Those are the questions facing the famed Clinton years Maloney and Porcelli. With any luck it can and appeal to its' faithful and its' new clientele.
The restaurant's comeback was the main feature in yesterday's New York Times Dining section.Dining section regular Jeff Gordinier wrote about Maloney and Porcelli's return to the world of Manhattan eateries.Its' owners are creating a new persona for the restaurant, This includes everything from new lighting to music, It is keeping its' signature dishes , fried herb versions of Tater Tots to a roaming martini cart.
The restaurant, famed during the last two decades is also famous for its' tableside cooking.The chef makes the fame Bronson Pinchot (yes, it's probably named for that actor who played Balki in the sitcom Perfect Strangers).It's a revved up steak au poivre dish .It's not only cooking but also entertainment for the diners. Of course Maloney and Porcelli will bring back its' classic dish of crunchy pork shank. This was a dream to behold and taste. It is a crispy ,crackly and gigantic enough to make it one of the restaurant's best loved dishes.
Maloeny and Porcelli will probably delight its old customers and fans.Its' approach to cooking is novel enough and entertaining. Not only that- it is revamped.That alone will bring in the curious.